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Rough seas or smooth sailing? The cruise industry is booming despite environmental concerns

<p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/frederic-dimanche-836528">Frédéric Dimanche</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/toronto-metropolitan-university-1607">Toronto Metropolitan University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/kelley-a-mcclinchey-1287281">Kelley A. McClinchey</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/wilfrid-laurier-university-1817">Wilfrid Laurier University</a></em></p> <p>Cruise ship season is officially underway in British Columbia. The season kicked off with the arrival of Norwegian Bliss on April 3 — the <a href="https://www.cheknews.ca/first-cruise-ship-of-the-season-to-arrive-in-victoria-in-less-than-2-weeks-1196426/">first of 318 ships</a> that are scheduled to dock in Victoria this year. Victoria saw a record 970,000 passengers arrive in 2023, with more expected in 2024.</p> <p>The cruise industry <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.trip.2021.100391">was badly hit</a> by the <a href="https://financialpost.com/financial-times/the-2020s-were-meant-to-be-a-boom-decade-for-cruises-then-covid-19-hit-them-like-a-tidal-wave">suspension of cruise operations due to the COVID-19 pandemic</a> in 2020. Fuelled by heavy consumer demand and industry innovation, cruising has made a comeback. It is now one of the fastest-growing sectors, rebounding even faster than international tourism.</p> <p>While many predicted <a href="https://www.cnbc.com/2020/04/05/carnivals-struggle-to-survive-the-coronavirus-as-outbreak-wipes-out-the-cruise-industry.html">a difficult recovery</a>, a <a href="https://cruising.org/en">recent industry report shows a remarkable post-pandemic rebound</a>. Two million more people went on cruises in 2023 versus 2019, with demand predicted to top 35 million in 2024.</p> <p>But environmental issues plague the sector’s revival. Are they an indication of rough seas ahead? Or will a responsive industry mean smooth sailing?</p> <p>Cruising has long been criticized <a href="https://www.sbs.com.au/news/article/their-purpose-is-to-be-fun-but-theres-a-dark-side-to-cruising-the-seas/dzxivdoos">for being Janus-faced</a>: on the surface, cruises are convenient, exciting holidays with reputed economic benefits. But lurking underneath are its <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2017.11.002">negative environmental and social impacts</a>.</p> <h2>Unprecedented growth</h2> <p>Newly constructed mega-ships are part of the industry’s unprecedented growth. Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas is the <a href="https://www.cruisehive.com/top-10-biggest-cruise-ships-in-the-world/66448">largest cruise ship in the world</a>, with 18 decks, 5,600 passengers and 2,350 crew.</p> <p>MSC World Europa with 6,700 passengers and 2,100 crew, P&amp;O Arvia with 5,200 passengers and 1,800 crew, and Costa Smeralda with 6,600 passengers and 1,500 crew also claim mega-ship status.</p> <p>Those sailing to and from Alaska via Victoria will be some of the <a href="https://hakaimagazine.com/features/cruise-ship-invasion/">estimated 700,000 passengers departing Seattle</a> on massive ships three sport fields in length.</p> <p>Baby boomers represent less than 25 per cent of cruise clientele. Gen X, <a href="https://www.thenewdaily.com.au/life/2024/01/15/cruise-millennials-gen-z">Millennials and Gen Z</a> have more interest than ever in cruising, with these younger markets being targeted as the future of cruise passengers.</p> <p>The Cruise Lines International Association asserts that <a href="https://cruising.org/-/media/clia-media/research/2024/2024-state-of-the-cruise-industry-report_041424_web.ashx">82 per cent of those who have cruised will cruise again</a>. To entice first-timers and meet the needs of repeat cruisers, companies are offering new itineraries and onboard activities, from <a href="https://www.timescolonist.com/business/royal-caribbean-quantum-cruise-ship-1st-at-sea-bumper-cars-skydiving-observation-capsule-4585987">simulated skydiving and bumper cars</a> to <a href="https://nationalpost.com/travel/cruise-ship-offers-pickleball-on-the-high-seas">pickleball</a> and lawn bowling.</p> <p>Solo cruise travel is also on the rise, and <a href="https://www.cruisetradenews.com/demand-for-multi-generational-cruise-holidays-on-the-up-data-finds/">multi-generational family cruise travel</a> is flourishing, explaining the extensive variety of cabin classes, activities and restaurants available on newly constructed and retrofitted ships.</p> <p>However, only a few cruise ports are large enough to dock mega ships. Cruise lines are responding by offering off-beat experiences and catering more to the distinct desires of travellers.</p> <p>In doing so, there is a <a href="https://www.positivelyosceola.com/2024s-top-cruise-trends-embracing-smaller-ships-solo-adventures-and-luxury-suites/">move towards smaller vessels and luxury liners</a>, river cruises and <a href="https://www.travelweek.ca/news/cruise/expedition-cruising-what-is-it-and-how-do-you-sell-it/">expedition cruising</a>. Leveraging lesser-known ports that can only be accessed via compact luxury ships <a href="https://www.cntraveler.com/story/small-cruise-ships-are-more-sustainble-and-on-the-rise">offers more mission-driven, catered experiences</a> for the eco-minded traveller.</p> <h2>Cruising and environmental costs</h2> <p>Cruise ship visitors are known to negatively impact Marine World Heritage sites. While most sites regulate ballast water and wastewater discharge, there are <a href="https://doi.org/10.3390/su12020611">concerns about ship air emissions and wildlife interactions</a>.</p> <p>Cruise ship journeys along Canada’s west coast, for example, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/jul/09/us-cruise-ships-using-canada-as-toilet-bowl-for-polluted-waste-alaska-british-columbia">are leaving behind a trail of toxic waste</a>. <a href="https://foe.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Comparison_of_CO2_Emissions_v2.pdf">A study by environmental organization Friends of the Earth</a> concluded that a cruise tourist generates eight times more carbon emissions per day than a land tourist in Seattle.</p> <p>Also, a rise in expedition cruising means more negative impacts (long-haul flights to farther ports, less destination management in fragile ecosystems, <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2024/03/03/briefing/last-chance-tourism.html">last chance tourism</a>) and a rise in carbon dioxide emissions.</p> <p>Toxic air pollutants from cruise ships around ports are higher than pre-pandemic levels, <a href="https://www.transportenvironment.org/discover/europes-luxury-cruise-ships-emit-as-much-toxic-sulphur-as-1bn-cars-study/">leaving Europe’s port cities “choking on air pollution</a>.” Last year, Europe’s 218 cruise ships emitted as much sulphur oxides as one billion cars — a high number, considering the introduction of the <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/S2542-5196(20)30002-4">International Maritime Organization’s sulphur cap in 2020</a>.</p> <h2>Rough seas ahead or smooth sailing?</h2> <p>Royal Caribbean said its Icon of the Seas is designed to <a href="https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/worlds-largest-cruise-ship-sets-sail-bringing-concerns-about-methane-emissions-2024-01-27/">operate 24 per cent more efficiently than the international standard</a> for new ships. International Maritime Organization regulations <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2024-01-22/royal-caribbean-s-icon-of-the-seas-highlights-climate-impact-of-cruises">must be 30 per cent more energy-efficient</a> than those built in 2014.</p> <p>But despite the industry using liquefied natural gas instead of heavy fuel oil and electric shore power to turn off diesel engines when docking, industry critics still claim <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/jan/26/icon-of-the-seas-largest-cruise-ship-human-lasagne-climate-fuel-lng-greenwashing">the cruise sector is greenwashing</a>. As a result, some cities like Amsterdam, Barcelona and Venice are <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/maryroeloffs/2023/07/21/war-on-cruise-ships-amsterdam-latest-port-to-limit-or-ban-cruise-liners">limiting or banning cruise ships</a>.</p> <p>Environmental critiques remain strong, especially for <a href="https://dergipark.org.tr/en/pub/ijegeo/issue/65449/957262">polar expeditions</a>. The industry must respond and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-01949-4_131">increase sustainability efforts</a>, but their measures remain reactive (i.e., merely meeting international regulations) rather than proactive. In addition, by sailing their ships under <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/2020/05/13/real-problem-with-cruise-industry/">flags of convenience</a>, cruise companies evade taxes and demonstrate an unwillingness to abide by a nation’s environmental, health and labour regulations.</p> <p>In any case, environmental concerns are escalating along with the industry. <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/cruising-green-eco-operators-make-waves">Travel agents and industry figures are aware of these impacts</a> and should help promote cruise lines that demonstrate a commitment to sustainable practices.</p> <p>Local residents need to expect more from port authorities and local governments in order <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.annals.2024.103732">to cope with cruise tourism</a>. Cruise consumers should recognize the environmental costs of cruising, and demand accountability and transparency from cruise lines.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/228181/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /></p> <p><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/frederic-dimanche-836528"><em>Frédéric Dimanche</em></a><em>, Professor and Director, Ted Rogers School of Hospitality and Tourism Management, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/toronto-metropolitan-university-1607">Toronto Metropolitan University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/kelley-a-mcclinchey-1287281">Kelley A. McClinchey</a>, Teaching Faculty, Geography and Environmental Studies, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/wilfrid-laurier-university-1817">Wilfrid Laurier University</a></em></p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/rough-seas-or-smooth-sailing-the-cruise-industry-is-booming-despite-environmental-concerns-228181">original article</a>.</em></p>

Cruising

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Set sail in style alongside these sporting legends

<p dir="ltr">The time has come for sports fans with a passion for cruising to live their dreams, with <a href="https://www.cunard.com/en-au/cruise-types/event-cruises/sporting-greats">The Voyage of Sporting Greats</a> - the latest offering to the world of thrilling themed voyages from British luxury cruise line Cunard. </p> <p dir="ltr">The first-of-its-kind-trip will set sail in February 2024, headlined by none other than AFL legend Adam Goodes, cricket’s Brett Lee, and golfer Karrie Webb. <em>Sunrise </em>and Olympic presenter Mark Beretta will also be joining in on the fun, as well as Bruce McLaren’s daughter, Amanda McLaren.</p> <p dir="ltr">While onboard, guests will have the opportunity to attend live fireside chats with their sporting heroes, to enjoy sports-themed shore excursions with those very same stars, and to get to know them better - if you’ve ever wondered just how heavy some of those trophies can be, now’s your chance to ask.</p> <p dir="ltr">For example, the Queen Elizabeth - one of four ships setting sail as part of the 2024 fleet, alongside Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, and the brand new Queen Anne - has a jam-packed star-studded program to offer guests, featuring everything from talks to sporting activities, and unique excursions to the shore in Sydney, Melbourne, and Hobart. </p> <p dir="ltr">Additionally, the Queen Elizabeth - the second largest ship in Cunard’s fleet with room for 2,000 guests and an additional 1,000 crew - boasts more than 10 different eating establishments, an entire Games Desk with the likes of paddle tennis, croquet, hitting bays, and bowls, as well as an impressive two-story library, a ballroom, and a Royal Court Theatre - the latter will even host performances by <a href="https://circa.org.au/">Circa</a>, an Australian contemporary circus company, in February 2024. </p> <p dir="ltr">As Katrina McAlpine, the commercial director of Cunard Australia and New Zealand, explained, “we are extremely excited to host some of the biggest local names in sport on Queen Elizabeth next February. </p> <p dir="ltr">“Brett Lee, Adam Goodes, Karrie Webb, Mark Beretta, and Amanda McLaren will captivate sport enthusiasts with stories of their career defining moments, their professional highs and lows, and give guests the unique opportunity to get up close and personal with them during priceless and bespoke activities onboard and ashore. </p> <p dir="ltr">“The Voyage of Sporting Greats offers sports fans a once in a lifetime chance to meet and engage with some of our country’s most famous sporting icons in one place.”</p> <p dir="ltr">2014 Australian of the Year and AFL great Adam Goodes, for one, is eager to join in on the fun with his fellow sporting greats, noting that “this is a spectacular opportunity to join the other sporting icons and connect with guests aboard Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth. I am looking forward to sharing stories about my career, what drives and inspires me and what projects I am currently working on. </p> <p dir="ltr">“I am specifically keen to talk to fans onboard and create great memories of the sailing for them.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Celebrated Australian golfer Karrie Webb is similarly excited for Cunard guests to experience their athletic lineup. And golf fans in particular will benefit, with Karrie “very much looking forward to sharing with guests my favourite tips and golf stories, as well as having a swing with them onboard.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Amanda McLaren - daughter of the late Bruce McLaren -  is honoured to be taking part, and “can’t wait to interact with guests and to share the McLaren racing story - and my father’s legacy that kick started in Australia.”</p> <p dir="ltr">And for cricket legend Brett Lee, the trip is set to become the highlight of his year, with the star most looking forward to catching up with guests on the “voyage for the ages”.</p> <p dir="ltr">The same could be said for and by renowned sports presenter Mark Beretta, who is thrilled to be facilitating the talent on deck as they share their stories. </p> <p dir="ltr">“Sharing stories of Australian sporting history and anecdotes from behind the scenes of the world of sports, plus talking to some of the biggest stars in Australian sport is going to be a treat for me and our guests,” he shared. “I’m also looking forward to getting on the road with guests to host a very special excursion!”</p> <p dir="ltr">The stars and their fellow cruisers will depart from Sydney on February 13 2024, heading to Tasmania and back over a span of 7 nights, with stops to stretch their legs and enjoy all that the shore has to offer in Hobart, Port Arthur, and Melbourne.</p> <p dir="ltr">To find our more about costs the voyage’s impressive guest list, and what’s on offer on this trip of a lifetime, potential passengers can learn all about it - and secure their spot - here: <a href="https://www.cunard.com/en-au/cruise-types/event-cruises/sporting-greats">https://www.cunard.com/en-au/cruise-types/event-cruises/sporting-greats</a></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: Cunard [supplied]</em></p>

Cruising

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Historic Swedish sailing ship slow to give up its secrets

<div> <p>The Swedish ship Vasa was supposed to be a beacon of military might when it launched in 1628, but it sank after sailing just over a kilometre, killing roughly 30 people  in the process.</p> <p>Since its recovery in 1961, the ship, its contents and the people who perished with it have become a valuable insight into 17th-century Swedish life.</p> <p>Now, an international team of researchers has looked closer at one of the skeletons, referred to as G, and have confirmed that it’s female.</p> <p>“Through osteological analysis it has been possible to discover a great deal about these people, such as their age, height and medical history. Osteologists recently suspected that G could be female, on the basis of the pelvis. DNA analysis can reveal even more,” says Dr Fred Hocker, director of research at the Vasa Museum, Sweden.</p> <div><a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/science/biology/shipwrecks-habitats-microbiomes/"> </a></div> <p>“It is very difficult to extract DNA from bone which has been on the bottom of the sea for 333 years, but not impossible”, says Professor Marie Allen, a forensic geneticist at Uppsala University in Sweden.</p> <p>“Already some years ago we had indications that skeleton G was not a man but a woman. Simply put, we found no Y-chromosomes in G’s genetic material. But we could not be certain and wanted to confirm the result.”</p> <p>They were able to do that with a technique developed by the US Department of Defense’s Armed Forces Medical Examiner System’s Armed Forces DNA Identification Laboratory (AFMES-AFDIL).</p> <p>“We took new samples from bones for which we had specific questions. AFMES-AFDIL has now analysed the samples, and we have been able to confirm that G was a woman, thanks to the new test,” says Allen.</p> <p>Allen, along with AFMES-AFDIL collaborator Dr Kimberly Andreaggi, is now investigating the DNA for more detail about G.</p> <p>“Today we can extract much more information from historic DNA than we could earlier and methods are being continuously refined. We can say if a person was predisposed to certain illnesses, or even very small details, such as if they had freckles and wet or dry ear wax,” says Allen.</p> <p>The Vasa Museum, meanwhile, is collecting information for a book about the people who died on the ship.</p> <p>“We want to come as close to these people as we can. We have known that there were women on board Vasa when it sank, and now we have received confirmation that they are among the remains,” says museum historian Dr Anna Maria Forssberg.</p> <p>“I am currently researching the wives of seamen, so for me this is especially exciting, since they are often forgotten even though they played an important role for the navy.”</p> </div> <div id="contributors"> <p><em>This article was originally published on <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/history/vasa-shipwreck-female/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cosmosmagazine.com</a> and was written by Ellen Phiddian. </em></p> <p><em>Images: Getty</em></p> </div>

Technology

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World’s sixth largest cruise ship will never sail

<p dir="ltr">A cruise ship designed to hold more than 9,000 passengers - making it one of the largest in the world - will never set sail, instead travelling straight to a scrapyard.</p> <p dir="ltr">In a shipyard on Germany’s Baltic coast, the Global Dream II was almost complete when MV Werften, the shipbuilder, filed for bankruptcy in January 2022, per <em><a href="https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/jun/20/global-dream-ii-unfinished-9000-passenger-cruise-ship-to-be-scrapped" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Guardian</a></em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">Lacking the funds to complete the vessel themselves, the company sought a buyer for it.</p> <p dir="ltr">Though the facilities were successfully sold to a German naval unit, the Global Dream II will be scrapped as it isn’t outfitted for military purposes.</p> <p dir="ltr">Christoph Morgen, the administrator for the bankrupt company, reportedly told a press conference that the Global Dream II would need to be moved out of the shipyard by the end of the year.</p> <p dir="ltr">German cruise industry magazine <em><a href="https://anbord.de/global-dream-ii-wird-verschrottet/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">An Bord</a></em> reported that its lower hull would be disposed of for scrap price.</p> <p dir="ltr">The looming ship, along with its sister ship, Global Dream, would have held the record for largest cruise ships by passenger capacity. </p> <p dir="ltr">With a combined weight of 208,000 tons, the ships would have also been the sixth largest cruise ships by size, trailing behind the Royal Caribbean’s Oasis-class ships.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-0fd68e81-7fff-d347-ae8a-b9fa02390ee6"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

Cruising

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Commuters rejoice! Auckland’s first electric ferries to set sail in 2024

<p dir="ltr">Two electric ferries are expected to be in the waters of Auckland by 2024 after the New Zealand government announced it would contribute $27 million in funding for the project.</p> <p dir="ltr">Minister of Energy and Resources Megan Woods made the announcement outside Auckland’s downtown ferry terminal, confirming that the funds would come from the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority, as reported by <em><a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/environment/climate-news/128452777/government-commits-27m-for-electric-ferries-in-auckland" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Stuff</a></em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">The funds will also cover the majority of the project’s costs and will account for approximately 75 percent of the cost to build the two ferries.</p> <p dir="ltr">“This project will be a major boost to the rapidly developing maritime clean technology sector in New Zealand and will further upskill the maritime transport sector in New Zealand,” Ms Woods said. </p> <p dir="ltr">“This is a boost for our climate goals and our economy, which is especially vital as we continue our economic recovery from COVID-19.”</p> <p dir="ltr">With the city’s current, ageing fleet of ferries accounting for nearly seven percent of public transport journeys and about 20 percent of public transport emissions, Climate Change Minister James Shaw said the new ferries were “another important step” in working towards a low emissions future.</p> <p dir="ltr">“As a harbour city, getting around by ferry is the norm for many thousands of Auckalnders,” Mr Shaw said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Today’s announcement means that instead of fossil fuels powering many of those journeys, people will be getting around in ways that help create a climate-friendly, prosperous future for New Zealand.”</p> <p dir="ltr">The ferries, developed by Auckland-based <a href="https://evmaritime.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">EV Maritime</a>, will also contribute to Auckland City Council’s commitment to halve greenhouse gas emissions by 2030, which requires transport emissions to be slashed by 64 percent.</p> <p dir="ltr">They have been developed with a range capable of covering several routes in Auckland’s inner and mid-harbour with a design similar to the electric ferry running in Wellington.</p> <p dir="ltr">Ms Woods announced the government would also be supporting 15 big businesses to move away from using fossil fuels in their production processes, providing $13 million in funding that will be matched by $32.66 million from private industry.</p> <p dir="ltr">“In partnering with the private sector through the third round of the Government Investment in Decarbonising Industry (GIDI) Fund we’re helping clean up production processes, and helping business stay ahead of the curve.”</p> <p dir="ltr">It comes just months after the first electric passenger ferry in the Southern Hemisphere <a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/dominion-post/wellington-top-stories/127908781/electric-ferry-makes-maiden-passenger-voyage-across-wellington-harbour" target="_blank" rel="noopener">made its maiden journey</a> across Wellington’s harbour.</p> <p dir="ltr">The Ika Rere (“flying fish”) in Wellington can carry a maximum of 135 passengers - compared to the 99-person limit of its diesel predecessors - while its Auckland counterparts will seat up to 200 people.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-996c629c-7fff-77cd-49bf-fe52f45e6d96"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: EV Maritime (Facebook)</em></p>

Domestic Travel

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Does the US have the right to sail warships through the South China Sea? And can China stop them?

<p>Images of what appeared to be US warships <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2021/nov/08/satellite-images-china-mock-ups-us-warships">emerged</a> from China last month, but they were not anywhere near an ocean. In fact, they were thousands of kilometres away, in a desert in western China.</p> <p>Military experts said the mock-ups of US warships were part of a new target range developed by the People’s Liberation Army. The images demonstrate how seriously China is taking the repeated appearances of foreign warships in waters it claims to control – and why this is a worry for the stability of the region.</p> <p>In late November, a US destroyer <a href="https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2021/11/23/us-warship-sails-through-taiwan-strait-first-since-biden-xi-meet">sailed</a> through the Taiwan Strait, prompting a warning from China to “stop stirring up trouble, crossing the line and playing with fire”. This followed sailings of naval ships through the strait in recent months by <a href="https://www.reuters.com/world/asia-pacific/us-canadian-warships-sailed-through-taiwan-strait-last-week-2021-10-17/">Canada</a>, <a href="https://www.taiwannews.com.tw/en/news/4314084">France</a> and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2021/sep/28/uk-sends-warship-through-taiwan-straight-for-first-time-in-more-than-a-decade">the UK</a>.</p> <p>The aircraft carrier USS Carl Vinson, meanwhile, <a href="https://www.scmp.com/news/china/diplomacy/article/3155365/more-warships-are-raising-risk-misfire-south-china-sea">made nine visits</a> to the South China Sea this year, most recently in October when it <a href="https://www.navytimes.com/news/your-navy/2021/10/27/uss-carl-vinson-operates-in-south-china-sea-with-japan-maritime-self-defense-force/">conducted training exercises</a> with a Japanese helicopter destroyer.</p> <p>China has been incensed by this uptick in naval activity. Beijing claims the vast majority of the South China Sea as its own and regards self-governing Taiwan as a renegade province.</p> <p>In a clear demonstration of its own naval capabilities, four People’s Liberation Army Navy (PLAN) vessels <a href="https://www.alaskapublic.org/2021/09/14/coast-guard-encountered-chinese-warships-in-the-aleutians/">conducted military and surveillance operations</a> just 75km (45 miles) off the coast of Alaska in the US exclusive economic zone in late August.</p> <p>Both nations’ naval operations are fuelling an atmosphere of deep distrust and suspicion. Chinese commentators blame the US for turning the Taiwan Strait into a flashpoint, and characterise US transits in the South China Sea as provocative violations of China’s sovereignty.</p> <p>And although the passage of the PLAN vessels near Alaska was in compliance with international law, the US is concerned about China’s aims to aggressively expand its naval operations to become the dominant power in the Pacific.</p> <p>With tensions running high in the Pacific, where does international law come in? What does the law say about sailing vessels in disputed waters, and have China or the US and its allies violated these rules?</p> <h2>The rule of law in the oceans</h2> <p>The <a href="https://www.un.org/depts/los/convention_agreements/texts/unclos/UNCLOS-TOC.htm">United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea</a> (UNCLOS) establishes the rule of law in the oceans, as well as the rights of both coastal and maritime states.</p> <p>For example, coastal states have the right to control and manage the resources in their exclusive economic zones (EEZ), which extend 200 nautical miles (370km) from their shores.</p> <p>At the same time, these zones remain international waters. This means foreign vessels have a right of innocent passage. They must travel on the surface of the water and not threaten the “peace, good order, or security of the coastal state”.</p> <p>Coastal states may stop foreign ships from passing through their EEZ if they deem it “non-innocent”, but the passage itself cannot be considered a threat.</p> <p>UNCLOS also specifies which waters fall under a state’s direct sovereign control, otherwise known as its “<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Territorial_waters#Territorial_sea">territorial seas</a>”. This extends at most 12 nautical miles (22km) from a nation’s coast.</p> <p>Some of the world’s most important waterways, such as the <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/18366503.2014.956856">Straits of Malacca</a> between Indonesia and Malaysia and the Taiwan Strait, fall into this category.</p> <p>Foreign ships still retain the right to pass through these territorial waters, as long as they navigate “<a href="https://www.maritime-executive.com/features/Maritime-Security-Private-The-Concept-of-Innocent-Passage">continuously and expeditiously</a>”, not stopping or anchoring. Coastal states may not prohibit or impede a vessel’s innocent transit.</p> <h2>Ambiguity being exploited by China</h2> <p>UNCLOS is scattered with undefined and ambiguous terms in an attempt to strike a balance between the competing interests of coastal and maritime states.</p> <p>This ambiguity raises the risk of clashing interpretations of the law, as well as the potential for nations to exploit it for their own purposes. China, for example, has complained US surveillance in its EEZ is not for “peaceful purposes” – an undefined term under UNCLOS.</p> <p>UNCLOS also does not grant sovereignty over the sea in the absolute terms that China claims. Under the convention, the sea is shared by states and no nation can claim absolute dominion over it.</p> <p>In recent years, China has passed domestic laws that claim to supersede international law. For example, Beijing <a href="https://www.lowyinstitute.org/the-interpreter/deliberate-ambiguity-china-s-new-territorial-waters-declaration">requires vessels</a> to seek permission before undertaking innocent passage through the South China Sea, which it considers its “territorial waters”.</p> <p><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/437677/original/file-20211215-19-hzffee.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip" alt="Chinese vessels in the South China Sea." /> <span class="caption">Chinese vessels moored at Whitsun Reef in the South China Sea.</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="source">National Task Force-West Philippine Sea/AP</span></span></p> <p>China also claims <a href="https://www.lowyinstitute.org/the-interpreter/how-china-bending-rules-south-china-sea">historical control</a> over the South China Sea, which is also not clearly defined under UNCLOS. Historical control over waters has been recognised under international law, but this requires a state to have had continuous authority over a sea, with the acquiescence of other nations.</p> <p>China’s claim to historical control over the South China Sea has been <a href="https://www.lowyinstitute.org/the-interpreter/whatever-happened-south-china-sea-ruling">dismissed</a> by an <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/jul/12/philippines-wins-south-china-sea-case-against-china">international tribunal</a> and vigorously protested by its neighbours, as well as other nations without claims to the waters.</p> <h2>US belief in freedom of navigation</h2> <p>The US maintains its passages through the Taiwan Strait and South China Sea are within its rights under UNCLOS, even though it is not a signatory. (It believes the convention contains pre-existing customary rights, such as the freedom of navigation, which all nations have always enjoyed.)</p> <p>To maintain these rights, Washington has maintained a <a href="https://interactives.lowyinstitute.org/archive/fonops/">Freedom of Navigation Operations (FONOPS) program</a> since the late 1970s. The purpose of these operations is to ensure all nations retain their unrestricted sea transit rights as spelled out under UNCLOS.</p> <p>As such, FONOPS send an overt message – the US has the right to sail its warships through the South China Sea because UNCLOS permits it. There must be no ambiguity under the convention when it comes to this.</p> <p>China claims FONOPS are a mask for unwarranted aggression and regional interference. Beijing’s opposition is not surprising – the program contests the legality of both China’s sea claims and its attempts to restrict navigational freedom through these waters.</p> <p>China has no legal grounds for dismissing these international rules. However, the longer it does, the more likely the tensions in the South China Sea and Taiwan Strait are going to intensify.<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important; text-shadow: none !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/166742/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <p><span><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/claudio-bozzi-8264">Claudio Bozzi</a>, Lecturer in Law, <em><a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a></em></span></p> <p>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/does-the-us-have-the-right-to-sail-warships-through-the-south-china-sea-and-can-china-stop-them-166742">original article</a>.</p> <p><em>Image: Mass Communication Specialist 2nd Class Samantha Jetzer/US Navy/AP</em></p>

International Travel

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Dreaming of an overseas adventure

<p><em>Reliving the magic of a summer sailing expedition in Greece, Justine Tyerman looks back on her last big voyage before the world changed forever and wonders – did that truly happen?</em></p> <p>The idea was born over a glass of wine... as the best plans often are.</p> <p>‘Why don’t you meet us in Greece this summer and we’ll take you sailing on Birgitta?’ asked Murray and Lyn.</p> <p>‘Are you serious?’ Chris and I chorused in unison, trying not to sound too ridiculously enthusiastic.</p> <p>Coincidentally, we were planning a trip to Europe over the northern summer so my brain went into overdrive. We could actually do this. We could rendezvous at a port somewhere, eat fabulous Greek food, drink ouzo and go for a little sail in a sheltered bay, and maybe even stay the night on the yacht.</p> <p>Chris, on the other hand, had more grandiose ideas of sailing on the high seas, conveniently forgetting his history of severe seasickness and my terror of sailing. So, ever the sensible one, I tempered my husband’s enthusiasm before things got way out of hand. ‘Just a couple of minor problems. Chris gets seasick and I get scared. So we’d better stick with lunch on board and a sedate sail around the calm waters of a sheltered bay.’</p> <p>Murray and Lyn just nodded and smiled.</p> <p><strong>September 5</strong></p> <p><strong><img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846322/4.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/de7d9aed021440b990170fe17f0914bf" /></strong></p> <p><em>Sunset on our first evening anchored off Paros.</em></p> <p>I felt quite emotional when, six months later, Birgitta sailed into the bay of Naussau on the island of Paros. We were standing on the dock looking out to sea and spotted the tall mast of the yacht with two figures onboard. Murray and Lyn had sailed big seas all the way from Turkey and here they were, our good friends from Gizzy, coming into port to pick us up, just as we’d planned long ago.</p> <p>We boarded in a high state of excitement, stowed our far-too-bulky luggage in the vacant bunk room and had a grand tour of Birgitta. The Swedish-built, 55-foot, six-berth Hallberg-Rassy was absolutely magnificent, far more luxurious and spacious than anticipated. Teak deck, gleaming stainless steel riggings, polished mahogany cabinetry in the lounge, and a fabulously well-equipped galley. The salubrious master cabin had a king size bed and roomy ensuite bathroom while the super-comfortable guest cabin had a V-berth bed, great storage and a bathroom shared with the bunk room.</p> <p>Murray’s thorough safety briefing gave me confidence that this was a vessel where no shortcuts had been taken. There were backups for every essential piece of equipment and in some cases, backups for the backups. For example, there were six fire extinguishers where two would have been sufficient and a special dry-powder system for the engine room because, as Murray emphasised, fire is one of the greatest concerns at sea. He also explained about how the weight of Birgitta’s keel would self-right the yacht if it leaned too far in either direction. Safety was clearly the number one priority on this ship.</p> <p>After collecting some essential food items in Naussau we motored out of the crowded port and anchored in a nearby bay for lunch. Greek salad and lasagne never tasted so good. The tomatoes and sweet red onions exploded with an intensity of flavour I’d never experienced before. And the same applied to the fruit. Peaches, nectarines, melons and grapes bursting with sweetness and juice.</p> <p>The day drifted by like a reverie. Swimming off the back of the yacht in the tepid, crystal clear, aqua-turquoise Aegean and relaxing on the deck with a good book was sublime. Life on board Birgitta was sweet indeed. I could see how days would easily melt into weeks and months . . . even years. Calm seas, blue skies, endless sunshine, the backdrop of the arid, rocky Cyclades with their characteristic blue and white chapels, tasty food and wine, the company of good friends.</p> <p>Late afternoon, Murray stoked up the portable barbeque on the back of the yacht and we dined on Greek lamb garnished with mountain thyme and other local herbs, accompanied by a fresh Mediterranean salad.</p> <p>The evening was the stuff of dreams. The light in the Greek Islands was soft, gentle and luminous. The ice-cold, local rosé plucked from the freezer and sipped at sunset added a rosy hue to an already euphoric experience. The conversation was nothing short of scintillating.</p> <p><strong>September 6</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846358/6b-murray-at-helm-brigitta-the-island-of-serifos-with-its-clusters-of-white-houses.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/a7cc0f23d4674a07ba5dfa647a505c7d" /></p> <p><em>Left: Murray at the helm of Birgitta. Right: The island of Serifos with its clusters of white houses.</em></p> <p>Next morning, I expected we’d sidle around the bay and then Murray and Lyn would drop us off at the jetty and set sail for their next destination. However they had other ideas.</p> <p>‘Sail with us to Serifos,’ Murray said. ‘You can disembark there if you want to.’<br />The look of excitement on Chris’s face was priceless. Even more so than the prospect of a round of golf.<br />‘What about your seasickness?’ I asked my husband.<br />‘All sorted,’ he replied flashing a big grin and a packet of pills at me. ‘I’ve discovered a magic drug,’ he said.<br />‘Wonderful,’ I replied wishing there were a potion I could take to stave off my fear.</p> <p>I’ll never forget the moment the big diesel engine was cut, the sails unfurled and Birgitta began to lean into the wind. The sea beyond the sheltered necklace of the bay was anything but calm and Birgitta adopted an angle that made me instinctively adopt my counterbalancing routine. Even when an aeroplane banks after take-off, I automatically lean in the opposite direction as if to hold the aircraft steady. So too on the yacht. I sat on the high side, leaning back with my feet braced against the lower seat, hanging on for dear life.</p> <p>The first few times the bow dived into the trough of a wave and the sea water washed over the canopy of the cockpit, my heart skipped a beat and my knuckles turned white from clutching my handholds. My facial expression must have been a dead giveaway. Lyn began to distract me with ‘grandma chat’. She has eight grandchildren and we were awaiting our first so the topic was well-chosen and offered endless absorbing discussions from baby-wear to birthday cakes.</p> <p>But after an hour of witnessing Murray’s expert helmsmanship, feeling the solid strength of Birgitta and observing the way she self-corrected when the angle was too extreme, I began to relax and enjoy the experience.</p> <p>The teamwork between Murray and Lyn was most impressive. There were incredibly in sync with each other. No raised voices or shouting of orders. They seemed to communicate by telepathy... and hand signals.</p> <p>Chris was in his element, listening intently as Murray instructed him in the art of sailing, and beaming from ear-to-ear as he took control of the wheel for short stints.</p> <p>After about four hours of weaving our way across the seas, the rush of the water on the hull and the wind in the rigging the only sounds, we sailed into the satin waters of Serifos, a small island with clusters of white houses on a hilltop.</p> <p>We dropped anchor in an idyllic bay and began the daily routine of washing the salt water off the deck and windows, and furling the ropes... although they were not called ropes in nautical vernacular, as Murray went to great pains to explain.</p> <p>“The only rope on a boat is the one attached to the ship’s bell,” he said.</p> <p>“All other lines have special names like sheets, halyards and mains derived from the long-past era of sailing ships.”</p> <p>There’s one called the ‘lazy line’... because it’s always slack!</p> <p>Refreshed after a swim in the sea and an outside shower as the sun slid towards the horizon and set in an eye-popping display of amber and gold turning to crimson and mauve, I felt extraordinarily exhilarated and happy beyond belief. I also felt a sense of achievement that I had coped OK with my first open-sea sailing episode and had not disgraced myself too much. There was a glimmering of hope that maybe I could be a sailor after all.</p> <p>Later in the evening, we rowed ashore in the dinghy and caught a local bus up the narrow winding road to Marathoriza, a restaurant at the top of Serifos. One of the great treats of travelling with Murray and Lyn was their local knowledge. Over the past 10 years, they had discovered many hidden gems and this was one of them. The wine was not great but the cuisine was excellent.</p> <p>Walking back down the back streets we came upon two fine-looking Greek men outside a café. We struck up a conversation with them and when they discovered we were Kiwis, they immediately launched into a spirited haka. They were so enthusiastic, I had tears of laughter streaming down my cheeks.</p> <p>We passed by a bakery selling massive loaves of bread for a festival in honour of one of the island’s beloved saints. A bunch of exuberant young people on motorcycles were heading to a bay just around the corner for the festivities. They invited us to join them. ‘Visitors are very welcome — come with us!’ they said. Looking back, I wish we had. Next time perhaps.</p> <p><strong>September 7</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846361/20-laundry-delicious-greek-salad-foinikas-bay-island-of-syros.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/73be626b59b74cc8b9c296adbc71c6a9" /></p> <p><em>Left: I had enormous fun doing the laundry and pegging everything out to dry. Right: A delicious Greek salad, one of many we enjoyed on the yacht.</em></p> <p>At daybreak next morning, while Chris and I were still in the land of nod, our ever-alert captain launched the dinghy and rowed across to a neighbouring yacht to alert the sleeping occupants that their floating home was about to become a ‘permanent landmark’ in the bay.</p> <p>The weather overnight had deteriorated.</p> <p>‘The persistent wind from the north — known locally as the ‘Meltimi’ — is building to full force as it regularly does at this time of year,’ Murray explained.</p> <p>‘It’s a wind not to be underestimated, and I can see why the yacht beside us moved overnight, dragging its anchor.’ </p> <p>I got the impression Murray always slept with one eye open while onboard Birgitta.</p> <p>After breakfast, we went ashore by dinghy for morning coffee and delectable pastries at a lovely little café on Livadakia Beach — after which I thought we’d disembark.</p> <p>‘You may as well stay another night and sail with us to Syros tomorrow. You can get off there if you want to,’ said Murray as we munched our way through another round of pastries.</p> <p>A quick glance at Chris’s animated face confirmed he was dead keen to sail to Syros. Needless to say, we did not disembark. We were well-and-truly hooked!</p> <p>Back on Birgitta, Murray and Chris donned snorkels and flippers to swim along the anchor-line to make sure we were well-secured. There was no hurry to move on so Lyn and I did domestic jobs like washing and cleaning which I found absurdly pleasurable. The yacht had an efficient washing machine and no shortage of line-space on the riggings. I had enormous fun pegging everything out to dry. By the time the next load was ready, the previous load had already dried in the warm breeze. I can’t explain why it made me so happy to do this simple task.</p> <p>We whiled away the afternoon swimming and playing a board game Murray and Lyn had picked up in Turkey. It was mentally very challenging indeed.</p> <p>Lyn’s prowess in the kitchen is legendary. Dinner that night was exceptional, one of a collection of delicious one-pan dishes that were easy to prepare, even when Birgitta was tossing around in choppy conditions. Pork chops slow-cooked with granny smith apples, onions, potatoes, baby courgettes and prunes.</p> <p>Despite my best intentions, my services as a sous chef were abysmal. I was unable to go below decks while we were under sail. After 10 years’ sailing, Lyn, handled the galley in rough seas like the seasoned campaigner that she was. I marvelled at the gourmet dinners she was able to create, seemingly effortlessly. The limit of my culinary endeavours was to throw basic salads together . . . but even that was fun because of the hugely flavoursome fresh ingredients available at the local shops and markets.</p> <p><strong>September 8</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846362/19-chris-helm-lyn-and-murray-during-our-long-lunch-at-foinikas-bay-on-the-island-of-syros.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/ca1aa28a274c4995b25b37d1f96e5c10" /></p> <p><em>Left: Chris takes the helm. Right: Lyn and Murray during our long lunch at Foinikas Bay on the island of Syros.</em></p> <p>After our customary breakfast of fresh fruit, muesli, Greek yoghurt and local honey outside on the deck on another glorious Aegean morning, we set sail for Syros, about 30 nautical miles away.</p> <p>We’d packed a picnic lunch in a chilly bin early in the day in case of rough seas... and rough they were. Chris relished the exhilaration of taking the helm and reading the oncoming waves. His concentration was intense as he followed Murray’s instructions and kept a close eye on the ‘wind instruments’. We were sailing hard on the wind and our captain was adamant that with concentration, we could make our destination with a minimum of needless tacks. </p> <p>When Lyn was not busy on the ropes, there was lots more ‘grandma chat’ that day. It worked a treat... I coped just fine thanks to my full confidence in our captain and his first mate, and the superior strength and stability of Birgitta. Released from fear, my senses were free to absorb the thrill of sailing and the joy of relying entirely on the power of the wind to propel us across the vast ocean. I marvelled at the responsiveness of the yacht to the slightest adjustments in direction, the tautness of the sails, the glint of the sun on the tall mast and the bow carving effortlessly through the foamy waves. Watching the radiant expression on Murray’s face as he navigated and guided Birgitta to our destination, I began to comprehend the allure, the magnetism, the compulsion to return to this life, year-after-year. </p> <p>Nevertheless, I was relieved to sail into pretty Foinikas Bay on the island of Syros by early-afternoon. We rowed ashore to a beautiful seaside restaurant where the concept of a leisurely, long lunch took on a whole new meaning — a fabulous Greek salad with a huge slab of feta on the top, tiny sardine-like fish, shrimps, fresh bread, beer, rosé and ouzo. I’ll always remember that lunch and the friendly local restaurateur who served us.</p> <p>You guessed it, we didn’t disembark at Syros that day... but little did I realise what lay ahead.</p> <p>Before reboarding Birgitta, Murray circled his pride and joy several times in the dinghy so we could fully appreciate her elegant Scandinavian profile and design. What a beauty!</p> <p>After such a substantial lunch, we ate lightly that evening, enjoying the balmy temperatures and another breath-taking Aegean sunset.</p> <p><strong>September 9</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846363/31b-once-in-calm-waters.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/a28bc09fff0245da826ceb74003b3ae1" /></p> <p><em>Left: There were moments on our passage to Kythnos when I secretly wished I had disembarked on Syros and was standing safely on terra firma. Right: Once in calm waters off the island of Kythnos, Chris and Lyn winched Murray up the mast to repair the damage. </em></p> <p>Next morning after breakfast, we rowed ashore with the intention of hiking to the top of the island but the heat and steepness of the terrain defeated us. We still managed to get high enough to gain a magnificent view of the barren, hilly island and sparkling sea surrounding it.</p> <p>The island of Kythnos was our destination for the day and as soon as we sailed clear of the sheltered bay, I knew this would be a real test of my ability to remain calm.</p> <p>There were moments on our passage to Kythnos when I secretly wished I had disembarked on Syros and was standing safely on terra firma. The Meltimi winds were strong and the seas were heaving. The waves seemed enormous as they loomed ahead of us but Murray skillfully weaved his way between them as if skiing a slalom course. The teamwork between helmsman and first mate was outstanding. My respect and admiration for them zoomed to an even higher level.</p> <p>Murray handed over to Chris in some seriously-challenging conditions, and continued his patient tuition despite the occasional drenching when his disciple misjudged the swell and troughs. At times like this I focussed firmly on the horizon, my eyes straining to decipher the hazy outline of our next island haven.</p> <p>Mid-afternoon, when Birgitta was heeling hard against the stiff wind, her sails under maximum pressure, there was a sudden jolt followed by an alarming flapping of the head sail. The snap shackle that keeps the sail aloft had failed allowing the sail to fall to the deck. Murray immediately pointed the yacht up into the wind but with our forward motion gone, it felt like we were floundering in the swell.</p> <p>In typical understated fashion Murray calmly said: ‘We might have a small problem here. I’ll need a life jacket please Lyn.’</p> <p>Murray donned the life jacket and went forward to retrieve and secure the sail. There was no panic or raised voices so I soon realised the situation was well under control and we were not about to abandon ship as my vivid imagination had concluded.</p> <p>I didn’t like the feeling of the yacht wallowing and rolling side-on to the waves so I grabbed a life jacket too and threw one to Chris.</p> <p>Lyn started the engine while Murray dealt with the detached sail and hoisted another sail. We were soon under way again, engine off, heading for a bay on the far side of Kythnos to anchor overnight and do some repairs.</p> <p>Once in calm waters, Chris and Lyn winched Murray up the mast to repair the damage.</p> <p>‘What it is to have a versatile Kiwi skipper who’s grown up on a farm and can fix anything,’ I thought as I watched Murray swinging across the spreaders near the top of the mast.</p> <p>The evening in the sheltered bay of Kolona on the western side of Kythnos was utterly sublime, well worth riding out the rough seas. I’m seldom able to live entirely in the moment but on this occasion, I experienced a state of 100 percent happiness.</p> <p>The walking tracks around the bay looked tempting but we were contented to just relax and chat after a challenging day at sea.</p> <p>I looked forward to our conversations in the evenings. They were always so stimulating and far from trivial, ranging from history and economics to philosophy and politics. We solved many of the world’s woes over a glass of wine at sunset.</p> <p>Lyn created another culinary masterpiece — a chicken dish with eggplant, tomato, onion, courgettes and feta served with fresh ciabatta and a salad of capers, gorgonzola, pear, baby lettuce and rocket... and rosé.</p> <p><strong>September 10</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846328/46.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/1e59b861485a4782be4b40654485cae0" /></p> <p><em>Above: The exceptionally picturesque port of Hydra.</em></p> <p>We had an early start next day for the long sail to Hydra. After coffee on board at sunrise, we weighed anchor and hoisted the sails. I’d grown accustomed to the yacht heeling as the wind filled the sails and I no longer felt at all alarmed. The conditions were so calm that day, even I took the helm for a while. However, Captain Murray had to contend with hazards of a different type en route to Hydra. We were crossing a busy shipping lane with large ferries, naval vessels and container ships in all directions so he was busy on the radio most of the day, carefully plotting our course to stay well clear of these huge leviathans.</p> <p>Murray and Lyn are not big fans of the crowded, touristy port of Hydra so we anchored in a secluded bay called Mandraki just around the corner. To secure the yacht so close to the shore, Lyn dived over board with ropes and strops which she attached to rocks some distance from each other.</p> <p>Murray then rowed us ashore to a little jetty where we climbed steep steps to join the coastal pathway to Hydra.</p> <p>The first impression of Hydra was the strong Venetian influence in the architecture with its pastel colours and tiled rooves, so different from the all-white buildings of the Cyclades. The little port was teeming with tourists dining at cafes, strolling along the waterfront and shopping at the boutiques that lined the horseshoe-shaped bay. We could see why Murray wanted to anchor at Mandraki. The yachts were jammed together so tightly in the harbour, it would be a nightmare to disentangle anchors, especially in a storm. As we walked around the waterfront, a massive private launch muscled its way into port, scattering small vessels in its wake.</p> <p>Hydra’s famous donkeys were lined up to take luggage to various hotels in the car-free village. It’s an exceptionally picturesque port, especially with the late afternoon sun casting a pale apricot light on the dwellings. But we were relieved to be able to escape the crowds and go back ‘home’ to Birgitta for another of Lyn’s memorable dinners, pork and oregano meatballs... with a Greek salad of course.</p> <p><strong>September 11</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846329/53.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/df1f29bd156644789a2768f7ab06bd43" /></p> <p><em>Above: Justine and Chris relaxing en route to Ermioni.</em></p> <p>Chris dived overboard and saved Lyn the task of retrieving the ropes next morning, and soon we were sailing the gorgeous coastline of Hydra bound for Ermione on the Peloponnese Peninsula. I was mesmerised by the landscape with its stone windmills, ruins of fortresses and the remains of rock walls trailing up steep hillsides. We passed a tiny white chapel perched on a rocky islet.</p> <p>The sea was so calm we motored some of the way and for the first time, I lay on the deck and read and dozed. I picked up a brilliant book called Shooting Stars and Flying Fish written by Nancy Knudsen about her sailing adventures with husband Ted. The couple found it impossible to settle back into their former corporate lives after five years sailing the world’s great oceans. Knudsen’s beautifully-written story affected me so deeply, I’m keen to read the sequel one day.</p> <p>Knowing our trip was nearing an end, when the wind came up, I lay on my back, gazing up at the tall, graceful, white sails; listening to the sound of the water whooshing against the hull; feeling the undulating motion of the yacht; trying to commit all the sights and sounds and sensations to memory.</p> <p>Ermioni is Murray and Lyn’s base where they stay before and after their sailing expeditions. It’s close to Kalada where Birgitta is parked up in dry dock over the winter. So they are very familiar with the town. We walked through a waterfront park for drinks and nibbles at a fancy restaurant, wandered around the marina packed with yachts bucking against their moorings, and stopped for the most delicious icecreams I’ve ever tasted. We’d eaten so well all day, we didn’t bother with a big dinner that night.</p> <p><strong>September 12</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846364/70-lyn-and-murrays-warmth-generosity-humour-positivity-and-kindness-touched-our-hearts.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/64d4e077609c46ec99f3cf22c9f2944b" /></p> <p><em>Left: The moon rising over a calm sea near Portocheli. Right: Lyn and Murray on our last night together. Their warmth, generosity, humour, positivity and kindness touched our hearts.</em></p> <p>The dazzling red sunrise next morning may have been a portent of the storm that Murray said was brewing. He was keen to get to a safe anchorage at Portocheli before it struck in a couple of days’ time. We went ashore to stock up at the waterfront market which not only sold a splendid array of mouth-watering fresh fruit, vegetables and fish but also clothing. I bought a pair of light slip-ons for 5 euro which became my favourite summer shoes. Chris’s big purchase was a couple of ‘genuine’ Ralph Lauren polo shirts. It was hard to prise Chris away from the produce. He was in heaven.</p> <p>We cruised around the coast in calm conditions and moored at Argolis, a delightful little bay with an abandoned resort right on the waterfront. The complex was the topic of much discussion over lunch as we debated what should be done with the empty buildings overlooking such a perfect, pristine bay.</p> <p>The water was deliciously warm as we swam off the back of the yacht. I used one of the fenders as a buoyancy aid so I could float around effortlessly for ages.  </p> <p>A small uninhabited bay just outside Portocheli was our idyllic location for sunset champagne and dinner on our last dinner together. It was a magical, romantic evening, bathed in the warm, golden glow of the fading sun, a memory I often return to on grey winter days in New Zealand. We reminisced about the many highlights of our voyage on Birgitta and laughed at how many times we failed to get off at the next port. Next day, however, there was no choice but to disembark. Onward flights awaited us — Chris was returning to New Zealand and I was heading for a travel writing assignment in Switzerland.</p> <p>Later in the evening, we sailed into Portocheli’s ‘keyhole’ bay where Birgitta would shelter from the storm. </p> <p><strong>September 13</strong></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7846365/80-tears-dribbled-down-my-cheeks-as-we-pulled-away-from-birgitta.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/4bdea230492546eea78cd07c38dee74b" /></p> <p><em>Left: Captain Murray presents us with the blue and white Greek flag that we had sailed under for the past nine days. Right: Tears dribbled down my cheeks as we pulled away from Birgitta.</em></p> <p>Prior to disembarking, Murray and Lyn conducted a little ceremony on the deck, presenting us with the blue and white Greek flag that we had sailed under for the past nine days. Dear Lyn also insisted I keep the panama hat she’d lent me from her large collection of Birgitta head wear.</p> <p>The wind was strengthening as we piled our luggage into the dinghy, ready for the rough ride to the jetty. A gust snatched off my precious panama but Chris heroically managed to pluck it from the choppy waves just before it sank. There was no way I was going to lose that coveted hat. Tears dribbled down my cheeks as we pulled away from Birgitta. I wasn’t ready to resume my landlubber-life.</p> <p>We hugged our friends farewell and boarded the ferry to Piraeus. As the huge catamaran thundered out of Portocheli, I could see Birgitta’s tall mast swaying in the wind like a metronome.</p> <p>Beyond the shelter of the port, the storm had whipped the seas into an angry squall. For the next few hours, the ship bashed its way through enormous waves but it didn’t concern me in the least. I was amazed at how seasoned a sailor I had become in such a short time. As for Chris, he was so relaxed he slept most of the way.</p> <p>I occupied myself the way I always do when I have time on my hands. I began writing about our Birgitta experiences, a life-changing adventure for us in so many ways.</p> <p>The voyage not only enabled us to visit beautiful, remote places that were inaccessible without a boat, but it took us both to another dimension. We overcame fears that have held us back for years — Chris’s seasickness and my terror of sailing. And Chris learned valuable new skills as a helmsman. No doubt Murray and Lyn have seen this transformation countless times before but I never would have believed it possible.</p> <p>Our friends’ warmth, generosity, humour, positivity and kindness touched our hearts. The experience also helped us understand the extraordinary life they lead when they disappear from Gisborne for six months every year. To us back home, it always seems like an eternity, but I can now see how the passage of time becomes irrelevant, something fluid not measured by dates but by the rising and setting of the sun.</p> <p>Our one day on Birgitta stretched into nine days, long enough to glimpse a deeply-fulfilling, simple way of life away from the pressures of the modern world. It all seems like a dream to me now... but our photos assure me that it really did happen. If they were of the old-school, printed variety, they would be very tatty round the edges.</p>

International Travel

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The world’s first fully vaccinated cruise sets sail

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The world’s first fully vaccinated cruise ship has set sail from Florida after winning a lengthy legal battle. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Norwegian Cruise Lines (NCL) restarted their operation on August 15th with the Norwegian Gem setting sail from </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Florida with fully vaccinated passengers and crew.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The voyage is a result of a legal feat by the line’s parent company Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings, who had sued the state of Florida to let the cruise commence. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The legal action was taken against the state, as state law </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">banned businesses from requiring people to disclose their COVID-19 vaccination status.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Despite this law, the cruise company was insistent on having 100 percent of people on board fully vaccinated against coronavirus, as opposed to adopting voyages that allow a mix of vaccinated and unvaccinated passengers.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">On August 8th, a judge ruled in favour of a preliminary injunction on the law, allowing the cruise line to go ahead with their vaccination policy.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This win kick-started NCL voyages worldwide, as cruises departed from both Greece and Alaska following the courtroom win. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Harry Sommer, NCL's president and CEO said in a press release that the win was felt around the world as the company could resume safe operations. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">"It has been an exhilarating few weeks as we relaunch our fleet, reunite with our shipboard families and welcome our guests back for their long-awaited cruise vacations," he said.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">​​"Today is even more special as it is the first time we are relaunching from our hometown and from the new NCL Terminal at PortMiami. After many months, we are ready to deliver a safe and memorable experience for our guests at every step of their cruise journey."</span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Image credit: Shutterstock</span></em></p>

Travel Trouble

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Setting sail: How to pick the perfect cruise for you

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The rise of popularity of cruises means that there is now a good option to suit any type of cruise holiday, in pretty much any location you can imagine. So, with that much choice, how do you pick the best cruise for you?</span></p> <p><strong>Plan in place</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Cruise prices vary dramatically - they can be anything from under a hundred dollars to many thousands per night. You may want to reward yourself or celebrate a special occasion and spend a little extra, or perhaps you just need some well-deserved time away on a realistic budget. Set an amount you’re willing to spend and how long you can manage to away for and then start investigating options. Planning a cruise can be part of the fun!</span></p> <p><strong>Cruisey options</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Is your goal to simply put your feet up, relax and enjoy some great food and wine? Or are you looking for your next big action adventure? Some cruise companies such as the Holland America are very traditional and offer classy events such as classic afternoon tea’s and ballroom dancing. Other cruise companies such as P&amp;O offer active activities like high rope swings, laser tag, slack lines, Segway options and more. Ensure you investigate special activities offered on board before booking to find a cruise option to suit you.</span></p> <p><strong>Destinations</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">One of the most important considerations when choosing a cruise is the ports you’ll be experiencing. Be aware that not all itineraries are guaranteed as unforeseen circumstances such as weather can prevent a ships ability to get to a port. To ensure you are covered pick a cruise with a variety of destinations you’ll be happy to visit.</span></p> <p><strong>All inclusive </strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Cruises are either all-inclusive, part-inclusive or pay as you go. Often food is included however, alcohol usually isn’t. Getting into the habit of a morning walk after a buffet breakfast means you can enjoy the fresh air and not feel guilty about having some extra bacon. Most cruises also provide a ship credit card which is linked to your bank account to pay for expenses on board. There is an option to put a daily limit on your card so you don’t overspend. It can be a lot of fun to enjoy buffet style food and an option of different restaurants and never have to reach for your wallet.</span></p> <p><strong>Go cruising</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">There are options galore! Cruises can go from anything from three days to many months. If you haven’t been on a cruise before try a couple of weeks at sea first off. It is a great excuse to enjoy a longer cruise next time.</span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Republished with permission of </span><a href="https://www.wyza.com.au/articles/travel/setting-sail-how-to-pick-the-perfect-cruise.aspx"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Wyza.com.au.</span></a></em></p>

Cruising

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Is sailing the secret to eco-friendly travel?

<p>I have travelled from Plymouth to the UN headquarters in New York many times, often to discuss how to protect the oceans from climate change. The deeply uncomfortable irony was that the carbon emitted on my fossil fuel-powered journey directly contributed to the problem I was there to solve.</p> <p>Greta Thunberg’s decision to travel the exact same journey to the <a href="https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/un-climate-summit-2019.shtml">UN Climate Action Summit</a> on state-of-the-art sailing boat Malizia II shows that there are principled alternatives. But is there a way for the rest of us to cross the Atlantic without taking to the skies?</p> <p>Thunberg’s <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/aug/28/greta-thunberg-arrival-in-new-york-delayed-by-rough-seas">14-day voyage</a> was significantly faster than the typical sail time of three to four weeks, but that’s still not for anyone in a rush. Speed comes at the cost of comfort, too. Pictures from inside Malizia II show a pared-down interior, even lacking a functional toilet on board. Such extreme measures are unlikely to interest most travellers and, at any rate, hopping on one of the world’s fastest wind-powered yachts isn’t an option for most of us.</p> <p>But sailing is a more feasible option than you might think. Private boats cross the ocean constantly. New online services that match boat owners with travellers mean that hitching a ride is more plausible than ever. For those with the right skills, this could be as a member of the boat’s crew or for those without, as a passenger. Some boats require payment, others don’t.</p> <p>The market is changing, too. Companies such as UK-based VoyageVert are actively exploring opportunities to develop sail-powered oceanic travel for groups of up to 200 people and envisage a fleet of transoceanic sail-powered passenger vessels. Travelling in such a way would drastically cut the carbon cost of crossing the Atlantic – though it’s not likely to be cheap. For climate-conscious travelers with time – and probably money – to spare, sailing is the only way to travel.</p> <p><strong>A transatlantic ferry service?</strong></p> <p>But what about travel for the masses? A potentially quicker and more cost-effective alternative would be to take a ferry. Many countries are connected by ferries, but a transatlantic ferry service does not yet exist – largely because of plentiful, faster and cheaper flights. The closest alternative is to take a seven-day voyage in a cruise ship, which would set you back around £1,700 for a basic cabin and a return ticket.</p> <p>This isn’t exactly cheap either – and nor will it save much on your carbon footprint. Cruise vessels are one of the most energy-intensive of all tourism activities, emitting <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0966692318309116">significant quantities</a> of greenhouse gases and health-damaging pollutants including nitrous oxide, sulphur dioxide and particulate matter. In fact, perhaps unexpectedly, the carbon dioxide generated per passenger in a standard class cabin on a seven-day cruise on board a large modern vessel is approximately <a href="https://www.myclimate.org/compensate/">1.5 times</a> that of a single economy flight between London and New York.</p> <p>Admittedly, some of these emissions will be from the many activities on the ship rather than fuel and basic power consumption. An alternative ferry service with many of the luxuries of the cruise ship experience stripped away would be more climate-friendly, though by how much is difficult to say as ferry companies don’t routinely disclose carbon emissions. And the isolation of a seven-day oceanic journey with few activities may not appeal to many travellers.</p> <p>But the carbon cost of these journeys should come down significantly in the next 20 years. The traditional reliance of vessels on <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/container-ships-use-super-dirty-fuel-that-needs-to-change/">heavy fuel oil</a>, which creates air pollution and contributes to climate heating, is reducing. Thanks to new International Maritime Organisation (IMO) regulations to substantially reduce <a href="http://www.imo.org/en/MediaCentre/HotTopics/Pages/Sulphur-2020.aspx">air pollutant</a> and <a href="http://www.imo.org/en/MediaCentre/HotTopics/Pages/Reducing-greenhouse-gas-emissions-from-ships.aspx">greenhouse gas</a> emissions from ships in the next decade, greener fuels are slowly coming into use.</p> <p>Like cars, hybrid vessels combining conventional engines with batteries are also becoming increasingly common. Cruise companies are considering even greater use of battery power in response to the new 2020 regulations, as well as to minimise pollution in the sensitive environments many of their boats disturb, such as coral reefs and fjords.</p> <p>Other technologies such as solar collectors, conventional sails and keel-mounted turbines are also increasingly contributing to the propulsion, electricity and heating of ships. My estimate is that collectively, these technologies could reduce carbon emissions by as much as 50% over the next 20 years.</p> <p>But while these innovations will reduce both carbon emissions and damaging <a href="https://reader.elsevier.com/reader/sd/pii/S1361920915002023?token=88F2092F9CC654CF5311A3934274314C7518870B54B7814951D6E986DFBDA95C811A4C08133526FD8C77E111BD6C5E01">air pollution</a> from vessels, if anything they’re likely to increase travel time. As such, transatlantic surface travel is likely to remain of limited appeal, even if prices become more affordable.</p> <p><a href="https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/27350/the-u-s-navy-has-unveiled-a-new-hydrofoil-its-first-in-decades">Hydrofoil technology</a> that lifts a vessel’s hull out of water – thereby reducing drag and increasing speed – does have the potential to significantly reduce journey times. But for this to affect transatlantic crossings, the size and weight of ocean-going vessels would need to tumble, which means using much lighter materials that either don’t yet exist or are cost-prohibitive.</p> <p>Until then, journey time will remain the primary barrier to low-carbon ocean travel. For now, the only answer for most of us wanting to minimise our impact on the planet is to minimise how much we travel across it – especially when it comes to crossing vast expanses of water.</p> <p><em>Written by <span>Steve Fletcher, Professor of Ocean Policy and Economy, University of Portsmouth</span>. Republished with permission of </em><a rel="noopener" href="https://theconversation.com/greta-thunberg-made-it-to-new-york-emissions-free-but-the-ocean-doesnt-yet-hold-the-key-to-low-carbon-travel-122518" target="_blank"><em>The Conversation</em></a><em>. </em></p>

International Travel

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Sailing: The only way to see the Greek Islands

<p>Convincing anyone to visit the Greek Islands is an easy task: endless sunshine, crystal clear blue waters, ancient archaeological sites, and the best olives you’ll ever taste. But with so much to see and do, the way you get around makes a huge difference to your trip; and by far the best way to do it is by boat.</p> <p>Board a yacht or catamaran and you’ll find yourself on the most hassle-free, yet exciting trip of your life. Only having to unpack your bag once, you’ll see far more than you would navigating on your own.</p> <p>The living quarters are compact but comfortable – this is no luxury cruise, but you won’t want to be spending too much time on the boat when you’re surrounded by warm water, stunning hiking trails, and vibrant local ports.</p> <p>These trips are suitable for all ages and fitness levels, and companies such as G Adventures and Peregrine offer group tours for people who are social, but want to steer clear of the infamous under-30s party tours.</p> <p>If you’re interested in discovering the more authentic side of the islands, and finding the perfect balance between exploring Greek culture and relaxing in stunning locations, then this trip is for you.</p> <p>Sailing tours offer a fantastic combination of group and independent travelling. Each morning you’ll get up and make breakfast with the rest of the ‘crew’, before setting sail for the day’s destination (you’ll average one night at each island depending on the length of your trip).</p> <p>If anyone is interested, the boat’s skipper will spend this time teaching everyone the basics of sailing – knots, steering, reading charts – or you can spend your time on deck reading or soaking up some sun.</p> <p>Once you arrive at the next island, how you spend the rest of the afternoon is up to you. Some people choose to spend most of their time at the beach, others will explore the cities or hike through the surrounding hillsides. Dinner is usually together, at a local hidden gem suggested by the skipper.</p> <p>Flexibility is a key part of these tours, and you’ll have the option to visit a wide variety of different islands depending on the desires of everyone on board. Some of the islands you won’t want to miss out on include:</p> <p><strong>Naxos</strong></p> <p>Inhabited throughout the entire year, you’ll find Naxos has one of the best examples of more authentic Greek lifestyle and is very family friendly.</p> <p>In addition to sand beaches, you can hire a car or ATV to travel inland to explore ancient temples, olive presses, and ouzo distilleries. The night life in the main port is fantastic – stop at a restaurant called Flamingos to see the head chef light the ground on fire and dance the sirtaki across it.</p> <p><strong>Santorini</strong></p> <p>Famous for its volcanic black beaches, you’ll find some of the most stunning natural scenery on Santorini. Take a day trip from the island to explore nearby volcanoes, hot springs, and end by watching the sunset in postcard perfect Oia.</p> <p>You've probably seen sunsets from Santorini on hundreds of postcards but it's truly breathtaking to see it in person</p> <p><strong>Mykonos</strong></p> <p>One of the more expensive islands, this is the place to treat yourself to some off-boat pampering. Partying and boutique shopping are the two most popular activities here, but you can find some secluded beaches if you travel away from the main port.</p> <p><strong>Paros</strong></p> <p>One of the most beautiful islands in Greece, you’ll be stopping to take a photo every two metres. Octopi hang from doorways and white building walls with bright blue doors surround small docks. The boats even sit matching alongside the beautiful Greek colors. Paros' nightlife is more relaxed and is a fantastic place just to wander about and absorb the sights.</p> <p>If you’re planning a trip, July and August are the peak season – but be aware this means big crowds. For the best combination of summer sun and a little peace and quiet, June is the best time of year to go.</p> <p><em>Written by Casey Ventura. Republished with permission of </em><a href="https://www.wyza.com.au/articles/travel/sailing-around-the-greek-islands.aspx"><em>Wyza.com.au.</em></a></p>

Cruising

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Having a whale of a time: What to do in Sydney

<p>Whether you live in Sydney or are visiting, any reason to get out on Sydney Harbour should be grasped with enthusiasm. For most of us, the closest we get to the open ocean is catching the ferry to Manly and walking down the Corso to the surf beach.</p> <p>Thankfully this is all changing and the shift is due to the return of the whales migrating along the east coast of Australia. In the past, seeing a whale off Sydney was a major event. Now several thousand humpbacks pass by each year on their annual migration between Antarctica and the tropics.</p> <p>To see if we could find any whales we took an afternoon <a href="http://www.captaincook.com.au/">Captain Cook Cruise</a> from Circular Quay on a sparkling Sydney winter day. The trip past Fort Denison and Rose Bay was beautiful. Then we turned east between Manly and Watsons Bay and set off through the Heads.</p> <p>Previous days had been quite windy so we had been told to expect some swell and to take whatever pills worked best to prevent seasickness. However, the large and new 160-passenger catamaran named “Maggie” was very stable and in the fresh air of the top deck no-one was suffering.</p> <p>The boat’s skipper headed north towards Harbord as a whale had been seen up that way. It was a young humpback, so perhaps just 20 tonnes of baby fat, and he was more interested in feeding than interacting with us so we went out further where a mother and calf had been spotted.</p> <p><strong>Watch out</strong><br />Whale watching is a closely regulated activity in Australia. The approach distance for a vessel is 100m from a whale but when calves are in the pod, the approach distance increases to 300 metres. To the delight of passengers, whales and dolphins often approach the vessel. In these situations the captain is required to slow down gradually, stop and wait until the animal moves beyond the approach zone. It’s the moments in between that make the cruise truly special.</p> <p><strong>Fantastic photos</strong><br />And so it was for us. The first male had given us some great photo ops with his tail in the foreground and Centrepoint Tower in the background. The calf seemed curious so the boat sat still as they swam around us then dived to surface right alongside, to considerable squealing from all of us. They stayed with us until finally moving far enough away that we could move on – towards yet another whale that proved quite elusive. You’d think it would be hard to lose something that weighs 30 tonnes but we did. Throughout the voyage we had expert commentary from a staff member with a PhD in her study of whales.</p> <p>In any case, it was time to head back to Circular Quay and we were well on our way when another whale appeared, being very active some distance ahead of the boat. Like the others he was a humpback and he did some partial breaches, flipper flaps and tail slaps before we got the grand finale – a full breach when the whole whale was suspended in mid air before crashing back with tsunami-like force.</p> <p><strong>Stunning views</strong><br />As we sailed back through the Heads the sun was setting down the harbour, bathing the whole city, the Bridge and the Opera House in a golden glow. That glow was shared by all of us on board who had just witnessed a great sight of the natural world.</p> <p>The majority of whales seen along the New South Wales coastline are Humpback and Southern Right Whales, with the occasional sighting of Killer and Minke whales. Throughout June and July Humpback Whales head north for breading before return south with their calves from September to November. Southern Right Whales do not migrate, instead move along the coast finding protected shelters for their young.</p> <p><strong>Where to go</strong><br />There are a handful of cruise companies who offer whale watching tours in Sydney. Captain Cook Cruises operates whale watching cruises daily until Sunday 01 November, 2015. Book before 31 July to pay $49 per adult, normally $65, and $29 per child (5-14yrs) normally $40. Whale Watching Cruises operate daily from Jetty 6, Circular Quay, departing at 1.30pm and returning at 4.15pm. An additional morning cruise operates on Saturday and Sundays departing at 10.15am and returning at 1.00pm. With a 99% success rate, Captain Cook Cruises offer a whale guarantee; if a whale is not spotted, passengers can cruise again for free.</p> <p>For more information on whale watching in NSW <a href="http://www.visitnsw.com/things-to-do/nature-and-parks/whale-watching?gclid=COOg2vqJtMYCFcEDvAod6BcKvQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds">click here.</a></p> <p><em>Written by David McGonigal. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.wyza.com.au/articles/travel/having-a-whale-of-a-time.aspx">Wyza.com.au.</a></em></p>

Cruising

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7 reasons to go sailing on a small ship

<p>Small ship adventure cruising is the Goldilocks of nautical holidays. Smaller than a floating casino, but more spacious than a 40-foot schooner or catamaran.</p> <p>You’ve got your own room, your own bed, your own shower and ensuite, but there aren’t 17 decks to navigate every time you want to get a coffee. You can enjoy a breakfast buffet or an a la carte dinner, but it’s hardly the Bacchanalian food-fest you’ll find on the larger liners (that being said, the food is excellent – bring some forgiving pants). Basically, small ship cruising is for anyone who doesn’t feel at home on a large cruise liner, but can’t face the sometimes cramped quarters of a smaller yacht. A happy medium that’s better for travellers, and for the environment.</p> <p>Here are seven reasons to ditch the big cruise liners and try something a little more intimate.</p> <p><strong>1. See places the big ships can’t reach</strong></p> <p>This is the big one. Because smaller cruise ships and yachts don’t have casinos, gyms, theatres, swimming pools and all the rest, the focus is actually on the destination, not the boat (which is why you flew halfway around the world in the first place, right?) There’s more shore excursions, more dining in local restaurants or dancing in local bars, more time spent stretching your legs. And the beauty of small ship cruising is that you can do all of this on islands where the big liners never go.</p> <p>Every man and his dog crowds into the alleyways of Mykonos and Santorini, but how many get to see the charming town of Poros, or the island of Aegina? How many explore Kynthos and Poliegos, or stop off for a dip on some uninhabited island that Google’s never heard of? That’s the real advantage of a small ship cruise – you leave with memories of places, not just pools.</p> <p><strong>2. Get on and off as you please</strong></p> <p>A small practical difference that adds a lot to your itinerary. And it’s one you get to actually observe in real time. When you disembark on Mykonos, you can walk straight into town and, as you do, you can look out to see and watch the huge cruise liners parked a kilometre off shore, their decks already crammed with people queuing for the sea ferries and little boats to shuttle them to the island. If they forget their sunglasses, or feel like a quick afternoon nap, it’s a real hassle to get back on board. But not with small ship cruising.</p> <p>Each time you disembark you’re given a small card; just flash that card and you can walk up the gangplank and onto the ship. Come and go as you please. Do a little shopping on Syros, drop it off in your cabin, then hit the town again for a retsina and a plate of Cyclades olives. It’s a little luxury the big boats don’t get.</p> <p><strong>3. It’s better for the environment</strong></p> <p>Big cruise brochures always do a good job of promoting pristine environments and crystal clear waters, but the reality isn’t really so sunny. This year it’s estimated that 24 million people will cruise the world’s oceans on board 220 different liners. Each of these is usually powered by an enormous diesel engine (some as tall as three storeys), and emits dangerous levels of sulphur dioxide, not to mention the sewerage from about 3000 people each day.</p> <p>Now adventure cruising is not 100 per cent emission-free (but Peregrine offset 100 per cent), but it is far less damaging to the environment, and a greener alternative for those who are environmentally conscious.</p> <p><strong>4. Swimming off the boat</strong></p> <p>Many people will take diving into the clear waters of the Mediterranean over a crowded pool of chlorine any day. Small ships may not have on-board pools, but a shallow draft allows them to pull right into secluded bays on uninhabited islands where a cruise ship could never dream of sailing.</p> <p>When we were cruising in the Greek Islands, we sailed beneath the Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion, rounded a corner, and dropped anchor near a little beach. Everyone got changed and dived into the water (which was a balmy 23 degrees). The staff were on standby with kayaks, noodles, fresh towels and a warm shower to wash off the salt. We splashed around and watched the sun go down, then dried off and settled down at the back bar for a game of Uno. There wasn’t a single boat in sight. All we could hear was the wind and the sound of Adrianna the bar lady mixing drinks. Not a bad way to end the day.</p> <p><strong>5. Personalised service</strong></p> <p>Because adventure cruising is limited to around 50 people (the numbers differ with each boat, but on average you’ll probably be sailing with around 35 people) you actually get to know the staff. They become your friends, your family. For our cruise we had Joseph, our intrepid guide and leader (with a truly wicked sense of humour), Yannis the hotel manager who looked after the restaurant and our rooms, Adrianna behind the bar (who quickly became everyone’s favourite person) and a whole crew of waiters, deckhands, navigators, chefs and room service.</p> <p>The service is personal and attentive (there’s even a laundry on board) and we really felt pampered from start to finish. It’s a nice change from the anonymity of larger boats, where you may not see the same people from day to day, and the staff have no hope of remembering your name.</p> <p><strong>6. More space and comfort</strong></p> <p>Large cruise ships are run a little like airlines: it’s a volume game. The idea is to cram as many paying customers per square inch as possible. Sailing on a small ship though, you get the feeling the cabins were designed with real people in mind. Each one is roomy and light, with its own ensuite. There’s air-con if you get warm, a cupboard to hang your suits and a safe for valuables (just don’t lose the key). If you had to put a star rating on it, it’d be around 4-star.</p> <p>There are sacrifices that you make for being on a smaller ship – you can usually hear the engine running in the background, there are only a handful of communal areas, the corridors are narrow and the pitch of the boat can be severe in rough weather – but the advantages more than make up for it. It’s the difference between staying in a boutique B&amp;B and a big hotel chain.</p> <p><strong>7. Fresh local flavours</strong></p> <p>Eating on a big cruise ship is an almost industrial enterprise. The flavour doesn’t matter quite so much as the metric tonnage. For a buffet fiend, you’re certainly left with a feeling of tremendous value, but it’s a stretch to come home and say you tasted anything that could be described as ‘authentic’. Adventure cruising is a bit different. There are still buffets, but they’re prepared with care by a small team of local chefs who really know the region’s food. They’re made from market-fresh produce, and designed to reflect the traditional flavours of a destination. That means they change depending on the cruise.</p> <p>In Greece it might be char-grilled octopus with lemon, Cyclades olives and handmade dolmades (washed down with some ouzo that will clear your sinuses from now until eternity). In Spain? Perhaps fresh paella and crispy patatas bravas. There’s even a special themed night on each trip, where the chefs go all out and whip up a feast of fresh local fare. And the good food doesn’t end when you step off the gangplank.</p> <p>Because you’ve got your own local Cruise Director, it’s easy to get tips on the best market stalls to visit, the bars with the punchiest grappa, or (in my case) a little taverna in a shady alley on Syros, overhung with blushing bougainvilleas.</p> <p>Written by <strong>Peregrine Adventures. </strong>Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.wyza.com.au/articles/travel/7-reasons-to-go-sailing-on-a-small-ship.aspx">Wyza.com.au.</a></p>

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Clive Palmer announces $700 million Titanic II set to sail in 2022

<p>One of the most infamous shipwrecks in history, the story surrounding the <em>Titanic</em> will be one that will be told for years to come.</p> <p>And now, exactly 110 years after the ocean liner sank to the depths of the sea, an optimistic hopeful promises to complete the voyage that it failed to do in 1912.</p> <p>Australian billionaire Clive Palmer has shared his plans to create <em>Titanic II</em> – a replica of the ship that met a doomed fate – and said it will be ready to set sail in 2022.</p> <p>The ship, which is costing close to $760 million, has been a work in progress since 2012 under Mr Palmer’s company Blue Star Line.</p> <blockquote style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BpK8dTdn64S/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_medium=loading" data-instgrm-version="12"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <p style="margin: 8px 0 0 0; padding: 0 4px;"><a style="color: #000; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" rel="noopener" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BpK8dTdn64S/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_medium=loading" target="_blank">You'll feel like king of the world, when the Titanic II casts off in 2022. The maiden voyage of the replica of the doomed 1912 vessel will leave from Dubai before traveling from Southhampton to New York: the same route as the original.</a></p> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">A post shared by <a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" rel="noopener" href="https://www.instagram.com/tictoc/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_medium=loading" target="_blank"> TicToc by Bloomberg</a> (@tictoc) on Oct 20, 2018 at 3:05pm PDT</p> </div> </blockquote> <p>Construction paused momentarily in between then and now due to financial disputes, but work has started back up again.</p> <p>However, despite the similarities, there are also some differences, as the <em>Titanic II</em> is currently being built in China while the older model, which was said to be “unsinkable”, was constructed in Northern Ireland.</p> <p>Another difference to expect is the improved safety systems in place, such as accurate navigation and technology, and extra lifeboats on board.</p> <p>Otherwise everything ranging from the interior to the exterior will be the same as the original.</p> <p>The old <em>Titanic </em>was able to house 2400 passengers and 900 crew members, with the new cruise liner hoping to accommodate to that exact number.</p> <p>The <em>Titanic II</em> will also replicate the cabin layout of the original ship.</p> <p>And to top it all off, the cruise plans to follow the same voyage as the first, starting its journey in Dubai and travelling along the North Atlantic route from Southampton, England, to New York.</p> <p>The journey will take two weeks in total, and upon its return, it will then start to travel towards other destinations.</p> <p>“The ship will follow the original journey, carrying passengers from Southampton to New York,” Mr Palmer said to <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.msn.com/en-au" target="_blank"><em>MSN</em></a>.</p> <p>“But she will also circumnavigate the globe, inspiring and enchanting people while attracting unrivalled attention, intrigue and mystery in every port she visits.”</p> <p>Speaking to <em><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.news.com.au/travel/travel-ideas/cruises/clive-palmers-700m-titanic-ii-to-replicate-voyage-of-the-doomed-original/news-story/851178755d4ce4d58fe0d4c475b93b91" target="_blank">news.com.au</a></em>, Blue Star Line has said that the <em>Titanic II</em> will feature the same class categories as the original – first, second and third class.</p> <p>The length of the ship will also be the same, along with having dining rooms and restaurants resembling the original.</p> <p>There is currently no information regarding ticket prices.</p> <p>Scroll through the gallery above for a sneak peak inside the <em>Titanic II</em>.</p> <p>Would you like to be a passenger and set sail on <em>Titanic II</em>? Tell us in the comments below. </p>

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Why “sail and rail” is the new way to travel

<p>It’s often said there are two types of travellers. Those who like to explore the ocean on a cruise, and those who prefer to see the interior of a country aboard a train.</p> <p>Both options seem equally as appealing, and many tourism operators are cottoning on to this with “sail and rail” tour options that offer the best of both worlds.</p> <p><a href="https://www.railplus.com.au/" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Rail Plus</span></strong></a> Commercial Director Ingrid Kocijan says there’s been a huge upsurge in travellers booking rail passes to complement their cruise itineraries.</p> <p>“Convenience, spectacular scenery, value for money and high-quality on-board services are usually top contributing factors for travellers when it comes to deciding which rail journeys or passes to book,” she says.</p> <p>But what are the most attractive options? Well, we’ve provided a rundown of some of the world’s best “sail and rail” tour options in the gallery above. Scroll through yourself (but warning, it’ll be hard to do so without the travel bug biting).</p> <p>Have you ever taken a “sail and rail” tour? Would you be keen to do so, if the right opportunity presented itself? Let us know in the comments below.</p> <p><em>For more information about “sail and rail” tour packages <a href="http://www.railplus.com.au/" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">click here</span></strong></a>.</em></p>

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Sailing the Nile by dahabieh

<p>No trip to Egypt is complete without a cruise, and in the months of planning preceding our visit, we decided to avoid the big liners and instead take a more traditional dahabieh.</p> <p>Dahabiehs are smaller boats, powered by two sails and able to dock at small off-the beaten-track places that big liners can't.</p> <p><strong>One day on the Nile</strong></p> <p>The top deck of our dahabieh catches the early morning breeze. It's the perfect place to take in the changing views as we move slowly upstream.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img width="497" height="280" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/36499/in-text-1_497x280.jpg" alt="In Text 1 (6)"/></p> <p>In the distance fishermen throw out nets. Small villages with traditional mud brick homes dot banks. Water buffalos wade in water beside fields where sugarcane is harvested.</p> <p>One small boy pulls a heavily laden and stubbornly resistant camel. I'm not sure who's going to win, but as we pass there's little evidence of progress.</p> <p>A little further upstream, date palms line the bank with reeds dominating the marshy foreshore. The water is blue and beautiful.</p> <p>We have Nile fish for lunch that's been bought from a passing village. As we eat we see more fields, lush with green plantings of corn, sesame, figs, pistachios, bananas, mangos and onions.</p> <p>Occasionally we spot birds, sometimes against the sky, sometimes on branches among marshes.</p> <p>Ten year old Nona and her Belgian family joined us just yesterday and she has a book called Birds of Egypt which we all rush to and consult whenever we glimpse something interesting. She's very rapidly becoming our resident ornithologist. So far we've identified, egrets, hoopoes, lapwings and kingfishers. I'm sure there'll be more.</p> <p>After lunch we dock at a small village and walk to El Kab. Before we even land we're besieged by a running, shouting mob of children, holding up small woven dishes. They've been made by village women, who have then sent these small emissaries to sell them.</p> <p>As we walk through the village I stop to look at one girl's small paper plaited plates liking their blue and green colours. But I have no money with me, and so have to shake my head and walk on. I glance back and see her eyes full of tears.</p> <p>At the day's end I sit on the small balcony that our cabin opens onto at the stern of the boat.</p> <p>We've moored for the evening and a village track parallel to the shore feels so close I could almost reach out and touch it.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img width="497" height="280" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/36500/in-text-2_497x280.jpg" alt="In Text 2 (5)"/></p> <p>Two boys pass on a donkey. They see me with my camera and stop and laugh. I had no idea I was so funny, but it makes for a good photo. And in stark contrast to the day's earlier experience, I'm glad to see children being children.</p> <p>Light dims and evening draws in. As the sun sets the call to prayer resounds through fields that are now empty. But here on the Nile, life never stops.</p> <p><strong>Getting there</strong> Air New Zealand flies into Cairo and then we used Air Egypt for our internal flight down to Luxor, the departure point for our cruise.</p> <p><strong>Sailing there</strong> We sailed in a small traditional dahabieh. See <a href="http://lazulinil.com/" target="_blank"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>l</strong><strong>azulinil.com</strong></span></a></p> <p><strong>Seeing there</strong> Life passes before your eyes as you sail. There are also daily stops at small villages and temples, such as the Temple of Horus at Edfu. We also docked at places inaccessible to larger liners, such as the ancient stone quarry of Djebel Silsila.</p> <p><em>Written by Marjory Woodfield. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Stuff.co.nz</span></strong></a>. Image credit: Marjory Woodfield via Stuff.co.nz. </em></p>

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8 ships owned by celebrities

<p>These superyachts are nothing short of luxurious with all the fine-trimmings you would expect the rich and famous to have. These photos will give you cruise envy and might even inspire you to buy a boat or maybe just book your next cruise. Here are photos of ships that celebrities have once owned.</p> <p><strong>1. JK Rowling</strong></p> <p>Reportedly in January 2016 JK Rowling bought this ship that once belonged to Johnny Depp. The ship was previously named <em>Vajoliroja</em> after Johnny’s, his ex-wife’s and children’s names. This ship is now called <em>Amphitrite</em>.</p> <p><strong>2. Steve Jobs</strong></p> <p><em>Venus</em> was built for Steve Jobs but sadly it was not finished before he passed away in 2011. Venus is still owned by Steve Jobs’ family and the yacht reflects a similar aesthetic to Apple products and stores. The 78m yacht is high-tech and covered in glass.</p> <p><strong>3. Steven Spielberg</strong></p> <p><em>Seven Seas</em> is Spielberg’s yacht that was launched by Dutch builder Oceanco. The steel hulled yacht has one of the best superyacht pools.</p> <p><strong>4. Nicole Kidman</strong></p> <p>In 2008, Sydney neighbours of Nicole’s in Walsh Bay were reportedly annoyed that her yacht <em>Hokulani</em> was blocking their harbour view. A spokesperson for Nicole said that the yacht was only left there as she was planning to buy another apartment and that the yacht would be moved a week later.</p> <p><strong>5. Giorgio Armani</strong></p> <p>Giorgio Armani’s yacht is called <em>Main</em> and is 65m long. The fashion designer lent his expert taste to the inner and outside design of this yacht.</p> <p><strong>6. James Packer</strong></p> <p>James Packer’s <em>Artic P</em> splashed over international tabloids when him and his former fiancée Mariah Carey, were photographed on the ship. The Australian have recently <a href="http://www.theaustralian.com.au/business/margin-call/arctic-p-yacht-set-to-sail-from-one-packer-to-another/news-story/1d9b880f587c1d963e9d7f70de3562f4" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">reported</span></strong></a> that James’ older sister Gretel is expected to buy the ship off her brother.</p> <p><strong>7. Paul Allen</strong></p> <p>Although Bill Gates does not have a yacht, Paul Allen who made his fortune with Microsoft does. The ship called <em>Octopus</em> includes two submarines, a recording studio, multiple games rooms and a movie theatre.</p> <p><strong>8. Tiger Woods</strong></p> <p>Tiger Woods’ yacht named <em>Privacy</em> is 155 feet long. He purchased the boat in 2004 and he spent the night of his wedding to Elin Nordegren on board. </p>

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Sailing out of New York and across the Atlantic

<p><em><strong>Rosie Hersch, 68, is a retired pharmacist, whose hobbies include studying, cooking and theatre. Her biggest passion is travel and like the song says, “I've been everywhere man (well almost).”</strong></em></p> <p>I felt like I was taking part in a movie. It was 10pm, May 14, 2016. I was standing on the upper deck of a beautiful cruise ship. As the band played all those fabulous songs about New York she departed from Pier 96 on the Hudson, sailing past the magnificent iconic Manhattan skyline, the lights of the buildings reflecting shimmering sparkles in the water. The night sky was clear, the moon and stars were out. I felt like I was in a dream. This experience is imprinted in my memory forever.</p> <p>One of the reasons we chose this cruise was because of the sail out of this most amazing harbour. We were headed for Boston. This is a wonderful city and our tour took us to many important historic sites, including the Old North Church where Paul Revere had ordered that two lanterns to be hung in the steeple to signal that the British Redcoats were approaching. We visited Cambridge, stopped at Harvard Square, and strolled past the hallowed halls of America’s oldest and most prestigious university. Boston is an elegant city but it was a bitterly cold early spring day.</p> <p><img width="520" height="431" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27372/boston11_520x431.jpg" alt="Boston 11" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p>Next stop was Barr Harbour, Maine in picturesque New England. We took a tour to Acadia National Park and Cadillac Mountain, on Mount Desert Island. Years ago John D. Rockefeller had financed for landscaping, trails and bridges to be constructed throughout the park.</p> <p>Our last stop before heading across the Atlantic was Halifax in Nova Scotia, Canada. Our excursion took us to a picturesque seaside village, Peggy’s Cove. The lighthouse that sits on the coastline at Peggy’s Cove is quite famous. There are many paintings and photographs of this beautiful lighthouse and the surrounding countryside. We were also treated to a lecture by a very experienced lobster fisherman about the lobster fishing industry of the area. He invited anyone who dared to touch a live lobster.</p> <p><img width="520" height="346" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27371/lighthouse_520x346.jpg" alt="Lighthouse (2)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p><strong>Related link: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/2016/08/rosie-hersch-must-do-guide-to-new-york-city/">Rosie Hersch’s guide to New York City</a></span></em></strong></p> <p>However, our Halifax tour guide was very informative, too much so in fact. As our bus left the harbour the first thing he talked about – and actually showed us on the shoreline –  was where Swissair Flight 111, bound for New York from Geneva with 229 passengers on board, crashed, with no survivors some years ago. Then he told us about the fishing trawler, the Andrea Gail, that sailed from Massachusetts in 1991 where the ship and crew were lost, not too far from Halifax in one of the worst storms. This true event was the basis for the film called Perfect Storm starring George Clooney. And just to add fuel to the fire so to speak, he related the story of the worst explosion in the world prior to the two atomic bombs that decimated the cities of Nagasaki and Hiroshima. He said as World War I raged in Europe, Halifax was a bustling harbour with ships carrying troops, relief supplies and munitions across the Atlantic. On December 6, 1917 at 8.45am a Norwegian freighter, the Imo, left Halifax for New York. At the same time a French munitions ship, the Mont Blanc left. They collided close to the shore. More than 1,800 people were killed outright. 9,000 were injured, 200 of whom were blinded. The explosion destroyed the northern part of Halifax including 1600 homes. And if that wasn’t enough bad news, he then proceeded to tell of the Titanic sinking and that the rescue ships left Halifax to retrieve the dead from the water. In fact, most of the bodies retrieved are buried in three Halifax cemeteries and furthermore our ship was about to head out over the Atlantic and pass right over where the Titanic sat at the bottom of the ocean.</p> <p>After all this commentary he jokingly said, “Some of you will probably need grief counselling when you return to your ship this afternoon.” How sobering this advice, I thought. Some of the people on the tour objected to his tales of woe but I found all this information fascinating.</p> <p>So now we headed across a rather choppy Atlantic Ocean to our first two destinations, two islands that are part of a small archipelago belonging to Portugal; the Azores. By now the sea had calmed somewhat and the weather was a little warmer. Horta, our first port of call has a long standing link to the sea, especially in the 19th century when it was a favourite stopover for the whaling fishermen. Many yachts stop in Horta, on their way from America, Europe, South Africa and even from down under. It is the halfway mark between America and Europe on this huge ocean, a convenient place for sailors to rest and stock up on further supplies. It is a custom for all yacht owners who stop here to paint their country’s flag or their sailing emblem, some also listing all crew member names in a design on the footpaths next to the pier. There many such murals here from sailors who have passed this way over the years.</p> <p><img width="498" height="393" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27374/boat-murals-horta-the-azores10_498x393.jpg" alt="Boat Murals Horta The Azores 10" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p>Next day we stopped at Ponta Delgado, on the Island of San Miguel, a very lovely place. We took a tour to a charming village called Sete Cidades and from there were taken to view two gorgeous twin crater lakes. The sight was amazing. One lake is green and one lake is blue. So then it was goodbye to the Azores. All aboard me hearties, we were bound for Funchal, the capital of the magnificent Portuguese Island of Madeira.</p> <p>In 2008, we spent 10 days in this idyllic place. At that time, I never imagined I would ever return as it is so far from Australia. I was thrilled when our cruise itinerary included a day stopover at one of my top five destinations of all times. The scenery in Madeira is breathtaking. There are spectacular cliff views and gorgeously quaint fishing villages. There are exotic flowers in superb colourful displays and such intense greenery in the huge variety of plants. The botanical garden adjacent to the Governor’s residence in Funchal is a horticulturist dream. The food is wonderful and generally restaurants offer complimentary Madeira wine with meals. I am quite partial to their Madeira cake as well. There is beautiful artwork and the people are so warm and friendly. I dream of returning and who knows, maybe one day. Till then I better keep buying those lotto tickets.</p> <p><img width="521" height="385" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27375/funchal_521x385.jpg" alt="Funchal" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p>All good things must come to an end so it was goodbye to my magical Madeira, for we now had set sail for Lisbon, our disembarkation port.</p> <p><em><strong>If you have a travel story to share please get in touch at <a href="mailto:melody@oversixty.com.au">melody@oversixty.com.au</a></strong></em></p> <p><strong>Related links: </strong></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/cruising/2016/08/6-cruise-cabins-to-avoid/"><em>6 cruise cabins to avoid</em></a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/cruising/2016/08/5-reason-to-stay-onboard-when-your-cruise-is-in-port/"><em>5 reason to stay onboard when your cruise is in port</em></a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/cruising/2016/08/8-reasons-to-bring-duct-tape-on-your-next-cruise/"><em>8 reasons to bring duct tape on your next cruise</em></a></strong></span></p>

Cruising