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Does intermittent fasting have benefits for our brain?

<a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/hayley-oneill-1458016">Hayley O'Neill</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/bond-university-863">Bond University</a> Intermittent fasting has become a popular dietary approach to help people lose or manage their <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8683964/">weight</a>. It has also been promoted as a way to reset metabolism, control chronic disease, slow ageing and <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27810402">improve overall health</a>. Meanwhile, some research suggests intermittent fasting may offer a different way for the brain to access energy and provide protection against neurodegenerative diseases like <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11011-023-01288-2">Alzheimer’s disease</a>. This is not a new idea – the ancient Greeks believed fasting <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8839325/">enhanced thinking</a>. But what does the modern-day evidence say? <h2>First, what is intermittent fasting?</h2> Our <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35487190/">diets</a> – including calories consumed, macronutrient composition (the ratios of fats, protein and carbohydrates we eat) and when meals are consumed – are factors in our lifestyle we can change. People do this for cultural reasons, desired weight loss or potential health gains. Intermittent fasting consists of short periods of calorie (energy) restriction where food intake is limited for 12 to 48 hours (usually 12 to 16 hours per day), followed by periods of normal food intake. The intermittent component means a re-occurrence of the pattern rather than a “one off” fast. Food deprivation beyond 24 hours typically constitutes starvation. This is distinct from fasting due to its specific and potentially harmful biochemical alterations and nutrient deficiencies if continued for long periods. <h2>4 ways fasting works and how it might affect the brain</h2> The brain accounts for about <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-much-energy-do-we-expend-thinking-and-using-our-brain-197990">20% of the body’s energy consumption</a>. Here are four ways intermittent fasting can act on the body which could help explain its potential effects on the brain. 1. Ketosis The goal of many intermittent fasting routines is to flip a “<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5913738/">metabolic switch</a>” to go from burning predominately carbohydrates to burning fat. This is called ketosis and typically occurs after 12–16 hours of fasting, when liver and glycogen stores are depleted. <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK493179/">Ketones</a> – chemicals produced by this metabolic process – become the preferred energy source for the brain. Due to this being a slower metabolic process to produce energy and potential for lowering blood sugar levels, ketosis can <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10844723/">cause symptoms</a> of hunger, fatigue, nausea, <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8754590/">low mood</a>, irritability, constipation, headaches, and brain “fog”. At the same time, as glucose metabolism in the brain declines with ageing, studies have shown ketones could provide an alternative energy source to <a href="https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.aau2095">preserve brain function</a> and prevent <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32709961/">age-related neurodegeneration disorders and cognitive decline</a>. Consistent with this, increasing ketones through <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31027873/">supplementation</a> or <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31757576/">diet</a> has been shown to improve cognition in adults with mild cognitive decline and those at risk of Alzheimer’s disease respectively. 2. Circadian syncing Eating at times that <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32480126/">don’t match our body’s natural daily rhythms</a> can disrupt how our organs work. Studies in shift workers have suggested this might also make us more prone to <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22010477/">chronic disease</a>. Time-restricted eating is when you eat your meals within a six to ten-hour window during the day when you’re most active. Time-restricted eating causes changes in <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36599299/">expression of genes in tissue</a> and helps the body during rest and activity. A 2021 <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7827225/">study of 883 adults</a> in Italy indicated those who restricted their food intake to ten hours a day were less likely to have cognitive impairment compared to those eating without time restrictions. 3. Mitochondria Intermittent fasting may provide <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35218914/">brain protection</a> through improving mitochondrial function, metabolism and reducing oxidants. Mitochondria’s <a href="https://www.genome.gov/genetics-glossary/Mitochondria">main role is to produce energy</a> and they are crucial to brain health. Many age-related diseases are closely related to an energy supply and demand imbalance, likely attributed to <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41574-021-00626-7">mitochondrial dysfunction during ageing</a>. Rodent studies suggest alternate day fasting or reducing calories <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1038/jcbfm.2014.114">by up to 40%</a> might protect or improve <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21861096">brain mitochondrial function</a>. But not all studies support this theory. 4. The gut-brain axis The <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6469458/">gut and the brain communicate with each other</a> via the body’s nervous systems. The brain can influence how the gut feels (think about how you get “butterflies” in your tummy when nervous) and the gut can affect mood, cognition and mental health. In mice, intermittent fasting has shown promise for <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5913738/">improving brain health</a> by increasing survival and <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12354284/">formation of neurons</a> (nerve cells) in the hippocampus brain region, which is involved in memory, learning and emotion. There’s <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8470960/">no clear evidence</a> on the effects of intermittent fasting on cognition in healthy adults. However one 2022 study interviewed 411 older adults and found <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9646955/">lower meal frequency</a> (less than three meals a day) was associated with reduced evidence of Alzheimer’s disease on brain imaging. Some research has suggested calorie restriction may have a protective effect against <a href="https://academic.oup.com/nutritionreviews/article/81/9/1225/7116310">Alzheimer’s disease</a> by reducing oxidative stress and inflammation and promoting vascular health. When we look at the effects of overall energy restriction (rather than intermittent fasting specifically) the evidence is mixed. Among people with mild cognitive impairment, one study showed <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26713821/">cognitive improvement</a> when participants followed a calorie restricted diet for 12 months. Another study found a 25% calorie restriction was associated with <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30968820">slightly improved working memory</a> in healthy adults. But a <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022316623025221?via%3Dihub">recent study</a>, which looked at the impact of calorie restriction on spatial working memory, found no significant effect. <h2>Bottom line</h2> Studies in <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9740746/">mice</a> support a role for intermittent fasting in improving brain health and ageing, but few studies in humans exist, and the evidence we have is mixed. Rapid weight loss associated with calorie restriction and intermittent fasting can lead to nutrient deficiencies, muscle loss, and decreased immune function, particularly in <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8749464/">older adults</a> whose nutritional needs may be higher. Further, <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6314618/">prolonged fasting</a> or <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9042193/">severe calorie restriction</a> may pose risks such as fatigue, dizziness, and electrolyte imbalances, which could exacerbate existing health conditions. If you’re considering <a href="https://www.nejm.org/doi/10.1056/NEJMra1905136?url_ver=Z39.88-2003&rfr_id=ori:rid:crossref.org&rfr_dat=cr_pub%20%200pubmed">intermittent fasting</a>, it’s best to seek advice from a health professional such as a dietitian who can provide guidance on structuring fasting periods, meal timing, and nutrient intake. This ensures intermittent fasting is approached in a safe, sustainable way, tailored to individual needs and goals.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/223181/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/hayley-oneill-1458016">Hayley O'Neill</a>, Assistant Professor, Faculty of Health Sciences and Medicine, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/bond-university-863">Bond University</a> This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/does-intermittent-fasting-have-benefits-for-our-brain-223181">original article</a>. Image: Getty

Body

Does it matter what time of day I eat? And can intermittent fasting improve my health? Here’s what the science says

<a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/frederic-gachon-1379094">Frederic Gachon</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/the-university-of-queensland-805">The University of Queensland</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/meltem-weger-1408599">Meltem Weger</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/the-university-of-queensland-805">The University of Queensland</a> Early hunter-gatherers faced long periods of fasting. Their <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35834774/">access to food</a> relied on successful hunting, fishing, and the availability of wild plants. Over time, the development of modern agriculture and the transition to industrialised societies <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35834774/">changed our regular eating patterns</a>, shifting our dinner time to later in the day to accommodate work schedules. Today, with access to an abundance of food, we rarely experience prolonged periods of fasting, except for weight loss or religious practices. It’s <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26411343/">now common</a> to have four or more meals a day, with the most calories consumed later in the day. Frequent snacking is also common, over a window of around 15 hours. However, research increasingly shows our health is not only affected by what and how much we eat, but also when we eat. So what does this mean for meal scheduling? And can intermittent fasting help? <h2>Our body clock controls more than our sleep</h2> Our internal biological timekeeper, or circadian clock, regulates many aspects of our physiology and behaviour. It tells us to be awake and active during the day, and <a href="https://theconversation.com/does-it-matter-what-time-i-go-to-bed-198146">rest and sleep</a> during the night. It can also tell us the best time to eat. Our body is biologically prepared to have food during the day. Food digestion, nutrient uptake and energy metabolism is optimised to occur when we’re supposed to be active and eating. Working against this default stage, by regularly eating when we’re supposed to sleep and fast, can compromise these processes and impact our health. <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31813351/">Erratic eating patterns</a>, including late-night meals, have been linked to <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36198293/">weight gain</a> and a greater risk of metabolic disease. Shift-workers, for example, and people who work evening, night or rotating shifts, have a <a href="https://theconversation.com/why-does-night-shift-increase-the-risk-of-cancer-diabetes-and-heart-disease-heres-what-we-know-so-far-190652">higher risk</a> of obesity, heart disease and diabetes. But adopting an eating pattern that aligns with our circadian rhythm can reduce these risks. <h2>So can intermittent fasting help?</h2> Nutritional interventions are increasingly focused not only on “what” we eat but also “when”. Intermittent fasting is one way to restrict the timing, rather than the content, of what we eat. There are <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35834774/">several types</a> of intermittent fasting, one of which is time-restricted eating. This means eating all our calories in a consistent 8-12 hour, or even shorter, interval each day. But is it backed by evidence? Most of what we know today about intermittent fasting and time-restricted eating is from <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35834774/">mouse studies</a>, which demonstrate remarkable weight loss and overall health benefits associated with these types of dietary interventions. However, some aspects of mouse physiology can be different to humans. Mice need to eat more frequently than humans and even a short period of fasting has a more significant physiological impact on mice. One day of fasting in mice leads to a 10% <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212877820301320">loss of body weight</a>, whereas humans would need to fast for 14 days to achieve <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30881957/">similar results</a>. This makes a direct translation from mice to humans more complicated. While health benefits of <a href="https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/fullarticle/2623528">intermittent fasting</a> and <a href="https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMoa2114833">time-restricted eating</a> have also been observed in humans, the findings in respect of weight loss are less clear. Current data suggest only modest, if any, weight loss in human participants who undergo these diet regimens when compared to calorie-restricted diets. Drawing <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35834774/">definitive conclusions</a> in humans may be more <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32480126/">difficult</a> because of the small sample sizes and individual differences in metabolism, variations in study design (such as the use of different protocols with varying times and duration of food restriction), and participants not complying with their instructions. <h2>Health benefits could be due to eating fewer calories</h2> Most studies describing the health benefits of <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33466692/#:%7E:text=and%20Future%20Perspectives-,Time%2DRestricted%20Eating%20and%20Metabolic%20Syndrome%3A%20Current%20Status%20and%20Future,doi%3A%2010.3390%2Fnu13010221.">time restricted eating</a> or <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27569118/">intermittent fasting</a> also found these diets were accompanied by calorie restriction: reducing the time of food access implicitly leads people to eat less. Studies that controlled calorie intake did not detect any more benefits of intermittent fasting than <a href="https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/fullarticle/2623528">calorie restriction</a> alone. The weight loss and health benefits observed with intermittent fasting is likely attributed due to the resultant reduction in <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34135111/">calorie intake</a>. <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32986097/">Similar findings</a> have been reported for time-restricted eating. <h2>Benefit of following our body clock</h2> Nevertheless, time-restricted eating offers additional health benefits in humans, such as improved glucose metabolism and blood pressure, even without differences in calorie intake, in particular when restricted to the <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29754952/">earlier part of the day</a> (that is, when having a six-hour eating window with dinner before 3pm). Restricting food intake to the daytime for shift-workers <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28635334/">can alleviate</a> metabolic differences caused by shift-work, whereas this effect is not observed when food intake is restricted to <a href="https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/sciadv.abg9910">nighttime</a>. One idea is that consuming food early, in alignment with our circadian rhythm, helps to <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28578930/">synchronise our circadian clock</a>. This restores the rhythm of our autonomous nervous system, which regulates essential functions such as breathing and heart rate, to keep our physiology “tuned”, as it was shown <a href="https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.2015873118">in mice</a>. While there’s much still to learn from research in this field, the evidence suggests that to maintain a healthy weight and overall wellbeing, aim for regular, nutritious meals during the day, while avoiding late-night eating and frequent snacking.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/203762/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/frederic-gachon-1379094">Frederic Gachon</a>, Associate Professor, Physiology of Circadian Rhythms, Institute for Molecular Bioscience, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/the-university-of-queensland-805">The University of Queensland</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/meltem-weger-1408599">Meltem Weger</a>, Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Institute for Molecular Bioscience, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/the-university-of-queensland-805">The University of Queensland</a> Image credits: Getty Images This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/does-it-matter-what-time-of-day-i-eat-and-can-intermittent-fasting-improve-my-health-heres-what-the-science-says-203762">original article</a>.

Body

No, you can’t reverse ageing by injecting ‘young blood’ and fasting. But that doesn’t stop people trying

<a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/rachael-jefferson-buchanan-297850">Rachael Jefferson-Buchanan</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/charles-sturt-university-849">Charles Sturt University</a> Like many celebrities and entrepreneurs, 45-year-old US tech billionaire Bryan Johnson is <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/health-and-wellness/taking-the-blood-of-your-17-year-old-son-anti-ageing-has-gone-too-far-20230530-p5dcd6.html">trying to reverse the ageing process</a>. Spending an average of US$2 million a year on an anti-ageing regimen, Johnson <a href="https://medium.com/future-literacy/at-45-i-now-age-slower-than-the-average-10-year-old-6932448fc608">claims</a> he now ages slower than some children. He explains: “the pace my body accumulates ageing damage is less than the average ten year old”. Many of Johnson’s age-reversal methods are questionable, involve dodgy science, and have known side effects. While you can’t stop the ageing process, and the gradual decline our bodies experience as we advance in years, there are some things we can all do – for free – to maintain our health as we age. <h2>What does Johnson do? And is it scientific?</h2> Fasting Johnson reports fasting for 23 hours a day. He then eats <a href="https://medium.com/future-literacy/one-meal-23-hr-fast-100-nutrition-18187a2f5b">one meal a day</a>: 2,250 calories of nutrient-dense food “customised” to his body’s needs. Eating for time-restricted periods in the day can have a <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9650338/">positive effect</a> on how we <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29955217/">metabolise nutrients</a>, inflammation levels, hormonal regulation, and <a href="https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/how-good-is-your-cardiometabolic-health-and-what-is-that-anyway-202208182803">cardiometabolic health</a> (blood sugar, <a href="https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/high-blood-cholesterol/in-depth/triglycerides/art-20048186">triglycerides</a>, cholesterol, blood pressure, BMI and waist circumference). However, a Spartan-like food intake can <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2121099/">impair</a> how our body responds to sugar (known as glucose tolerance). And it’s not necessarily any more effective for weight maintenance than <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29419624/">reducing calorie intake at each meal</a>. Large-scale, long-term human trials are needed to confirm the <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34728336/">limited risk-benefit</a> findings of fasting. Acid peels Johnson has weekly <a href="https://www.asds.net/skin-experts/skin-treatments/chemical-peels/chemical-peels-for-aging-skin">acid peels</a> (which use a mild acid to exfoliate the skin) to maintain a “youthful glow”. But you cannot smooth sagging facial skin or remove deep scars or wrinkles. Acid peels also <a href="https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/chemical-peel/about/pac-20393473">come with risks</a>, including organ damage, infection, scarring and swelling. Plasma infusions Perhaps the most bizarre youth-inducing procedure Johnson has attempted is receiving blood transfusions from his 17-year-old son. US biotech companies have explored <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/society/2020/feb/02/could-young-blood-stop-us-getting-old-transfusions-experiments-mice-plasma">plasma infusions</a> to tackle age-related diseases in humans for decades. But there are no proven clinical benefits. <a href="https://www.redcrossblood.org/donate-blood/blood-donation-process/what-happens-to-donated-blood/blood-transfusions/risks-complications.html">Side effects from blood transfusions</a> include blood-borne infections, fever and allergic reactions. <h2>Historical attempts to stay youthful</h2> Humans have been experimenting with <a href="https://academic.oup.com/biomedgerontology/article/59/6/B515/662071">anti-ageing methods for centuries</a>. These have included all sorts of behavioural and lifestyle practices that are quirky, questionable, and even sadistic. Ancient practices included <a href="https://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/news/a14382/anti-aging-beauty-through-history/">crocodile dung face masks</a>, which the Greeks and Romans used to brighten their complexions. Romans also used <a href="https://beautytap.com/2019/03/donkey-milk">donkey milk</a> and <a href="https://www.ancient-origins.net/history/swans-fat-crocodile-dung-and-ashes-snails-achieving-beauty-ancient-rome-003240">swan fat</a> to minimise wrinkles, due to their acclaimed rejuvenating properties. <a href="https://www.livescience.com/44071-cleopatra-biography.html">Cleopatra</a> apparently took daily baths in sour donkey milk. To sustain this lavish habit, she had a <a href="https://www.naturanecosmetics.com/en/content/26-faits-historiques">herd of 700 donkeys</a>. Sour milk contains <a href="https://science.jrank.org/pages/3780/Lactic-Acid-Lactic-acid-in-foods.html">lactic acid</a>, a naturally occurring <a href="https://www.mecca.com.au/edits/ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids/">alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA)</a> that exists in many modern-day exfoliants. So this idea was grounded in basic science, at least. <figure class="align-center "><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=400&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530478/original/file-20230607-27-bv0w1t.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=503&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" alt="Milk bath with dried fruits and flowers" /><figcaption>Don’t waste milk on a bath. <a class="source" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/bath-milk-flowers-1051210370">Shutterstock</a></figcaption></figure> During the 16th and 17th century, “Countess Dracula” aka <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_B%C3%A1thory">Elizabeth Bathory</a> allegedly resorted to serial killing to quench her thirst for youthfulness, <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/the-bloody-legend-of-hungarys-serial-killer-countess">bathing in the blood of her young victims</a>. <h2>The quest continues with cryotherapy</h2> Fountain of youth fixations have inspired many contemporary anti-ageing trends. Exposure to cold is a firm favourite. <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s43587-023-00383-4">Some research</a> suggests this could have <a href="https://neurosciencenews.com/cold-aging-22928/">benefits</a> relating to longevity, by slowing cellular degeneration, <a href="https://www.cryo.com.au/anti-ageing-benefits-of-whole-body-cryotherapy/">stimulating collagen and elastin production</a>, increasing the metabolism, and reducing inflammation. Dutch motivational speaker Wim Hof includes <a href="https://www.wimhofmethod.com/cold-water-immersion">cold water immersion</a> as one of the three pillars of his <a href="https://www.wimhofmethod.com/">Wim Hof Method</a> to “increase mind-body connection”. Athletes such as <a href="https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sport/football/article-2469985/Cristiano-Ronaldo-buys-Cryotherapy-chamber.html">Cristiano Ronaldo</a> use <a href="https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/21099-cryotherapy">cryotherapy</a>, exposing their bodies to extremely cold temperatures for two to four minutes to decrease the signs of ageing and enhance their general health. However, the <a href="https://www.medicinenet.com/what_are_the_side_effects_of_cryotherapy/article.htm">risks of cryotherapy</a> include bone fractures, frostbite, nerve damage, bleeding, cramping, swelling and skin infections. <h2>So what can we do to age well?</h2> Two of the more mainstream anti-ageing methods that Johnson recommends are the daily self-care habits of sleep and exercise. He has a <a href="https://medium.com/future-literacy/sleep-and-impulse-control-87e844218ff2">strict sleep schedule</a> that involves retiring to bed at 8pm, with a one-hour wind-down in a darkened room. Adults report poorer sleep quality and difficulty being able to sleep for long enough <a href="https://www.news-medical.net/health/How-Does-the-Suprachiasmatic-Nucleus-(SCN)-Control-Circadian-Rhythm.aspx">as they age</a>. Sleeping too much or too little is <a href="https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpubh.2023.1043347/full">associated with</a> a greater risk of obesity, heart disease and <a href="https://theconversation.com/research-check-can-sleeping-too-much-lead-to-an-early-death-101323">premature death</a>. Developing a regular sleep routine, reducing bedroom distractions such as mobile phones, and exercising regularly can all help to <a href="https://www.sleepfoundation.org/aging-and-sleep">alleviate sleep problems</a>. <figure class="align-center "><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=600&h=383&fit=crop&dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=600&h=383&fit=crop&dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=600&h=383&fit=crop&dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&h=482&fit=crop&dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=30&auto=format&w=754&h=482&fit=crop&dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/530491/original/file-20230607-29-cw0f29.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=15&auto=format&w=754&h=482&fit=crop&dpr=3 2262w" alt="Child and grandfather walk on a beach" /><figcaption>Exercise is also important for healthy ageing. <a class="source" href="https://unsplash.com/photos/s-vhziQHngM">Vidar Nordi Mathisen/Unsplash</a></figcaption></figure> Exercise, often cited as a <a href="https://www.marketwatch.com/story/exercise-is-the-wonder-drug-for-healthy-aging-11633642719">wonder drug for healthy ageing</a>, is something Johnson takes very seriously. He does a “<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNywRJgCRaQ">Blueprint</a>” workout that includes specially designed daily techniques, as well as <a href="https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/high-intensity-interval-training/">high-intensity interval training sessions</a>, hiking and playing sport. From middle age onwards, we all need to exercise regularly, to increase our muscle mass, bone density, strength, endurance, coordination and balance. One of the greatest health risks for older people is <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK560761/">falling</a>, which balance, flexibility, endurance and strength training <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC381224/">can help</a> reduce. Physical activity can bring <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5408452/">social benefits</a> in older adults if undertaken in groups, and there are well-known <a href="https://www.whiddon.com.au/yourlife/the-mental-health-benefits-of-exercise-for-older-adults/">mental health gains</a>. Small changes in sleep, diet (eating <a href="https://health.gov/news/202107/nutrition-we-age-healthy-eating-dietary-guidelines">plenty of vegetables, fruit, wholegrains, healthy fats, and enough protein</a>), and exercise can support <a href="https://bmcgeriatr.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12877-020-01900-5">healthy ageing</a>, reducing the chance of early death, and helping us all to lead an active and independent life in our senior years. Now that is something worth investing in.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/207038/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/rachael-jefferson-buchanan-297850">Rachael Jefferson-Buchanan</a>, Lecturer in Human Movement Studies (Health and PE) and Creative Arts, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/charles-sturt-university-849">Charles Sturt University</a> This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/no-you-cant-reverse-ageing-by-injecting-young-blood-and-fasting-but-that-doesnt-stop-people-trying-207038">original article</a>. Images: Getty

Body

Is it true the faster you lose weight the quicker it comes back? Here’s what we know about slow and fast weight loss

<a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/nick-fuller-219993">Nick Fuller</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-sydney-841">University of Sydney</a> When people decide it’s time to lose weight, they’re usually keen to see quick results. Maybe they have an event coming up or want relief from health problems and discomfort. But expert guidelines typically recommend slower weight loss for the treatment of obesity. This tallies with a a widely held opinion that fast weight loss is more quickly regained. Slow weight loss is generally perceived as better for your health and more sustainable. Many programs offering “the fastest way to lose weight” are considered fad diets that severely restrict calories or eliminate some foods. But does slow and steady really win the weight-loss race? Or is fast weight loss just as effective and safe? <h2>What’s the difference between slow and fast weight loss?</h2> Governing bodies typically <a href="https://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/health/healthyliving/weight-loss-a-healthy-approach">recommend</a> a weight loss of 0.5 to 1 kilogram each week, which would be defined as slow weight loss. So <a href="https://medlineplus.gov/ency/patientinstructions/000885.htm#:%7E:text=Rapid%20weight%20loss%20diet%20is,a%20week%20over%20several%20weeks.">fast weight loss</a> – also termed “rapid weight loss” – is losing more than 1 kilo a week over several weeks. <h2>What does the research say about fast weight loss?</h2> There are several well-conducted studies examining differing approaches. One <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25459211/">study</a> of 200 people randomly assigned them to fast or slow weight loss – 12 weeks versus 36 weeks – aimed at a 15% reduction in weight. The fast weight loss group was put on a very low energy diet using meal replacements, including shakes, bars and soups, three times per day. The slow weight loss group was advised on the <a href="https://www.eatforhealth.gov.au/guidelines/australian-guide-healthy-eating">Australian Guide to Healthy Eating</a> with the goal to eat 500 calories less than they used for energy (creating a calorie deficit) each day. They also used one to two meal replacements daily. Some 50% of the slow weight loss group and 81% of the fast weight loss group achieved 12.5% or more weight loss during this time. After this initial phase, those who had lost 12.5% or more were then placed on a weight maintenance diet for approximately 2.75 years. By the three-year mark, 76% of those in the slow weight loss and the same percentage of those in the fast weight loss group had regained their lost weight. So, it didn’t matter if they had lost it slow or fast, they still regained the weight. However, another <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2405844020308513#bib17">study</a> on 101 postmenopausal women found fast weight loss resulted in better outcomes than a slow weight loss group at the three-year mark. But there are other factors to consider, aside from weight loss, when it comes to the differing ways of losing weight – such as changes in body composition and bone mineral density. This is best highlighted by a large <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32576318/">meta-analysis</a>. These type of studies combine the results of all previous well-conducted studies on the topic. While this <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32576318/">analysis</a> found the magnitude of weight loss was similar for both approaches, slow weight loss resulted in better outcomes than fast weight loss with respect to metabolism or how many calories we burn at rest. There were no differences in the amount of fat-free mass or muscle mass lost between the slow and fast weight loss groups. But slow weight loss resulted in greater reductions in fat mass and therefore a better fat-to-muscle ratio. Slow weight loss also seems better for bone density, because rapid weight loss results in a <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2405844020308513#bib17">twice as much bone loss</a> and puts a person at increased risk of brittle bones or osteoporosis. <h2>What about other diet approaches?</h2> Research shows it doesn’t matter what type of macronutrient diet you follow – moderate or high-protein diet, low or high-carbodyrate diet, low or high-fat diet. All diet approaches achieve similar <a href="https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMoa0804748">weight loss outcomes</a>. The same can be said for fashionable ways of cutting calories from the diet, such as intermittent fasting. <a href="https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMoa2114833">Research</a> has shown such diets don’t result in any better weight loss results than any of its predecessors. This is because our body is extremely good at <a href="https://theconversation.com/whats-the-weight-set-point-and-why-does-it-make-it-so-hard-to-keep-weight-off-195724">protecting against weight loss</a>. <h2>When you want to lose weight consider …</h2> Your metabolism When you lose large amounts of weight, you resting metabolic rate – the energy you burn at rest – will lower. Keeping your resting metabolic rate high is essential for keeping the weight off. Unfortunately, once it slows down, your resting metabolic rate doesn’t recover to the level it was pre-dieting <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/oby.21538">even after you regain weight</a>. However, research has confirmed <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32576318/">slow weight loss</a> preserves your resting metabolic rate compared with rapid weight loss. As does a weight loss program <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2161831323002867?via%3Dihub">that includes exercise</a> rather than one that focuses on diet alone. Side effects While restrictive diets can achieve rapid results, studies suggest they can come with adverse effects. This includes a <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16350561/">higher risk of gallstones</a> and deficiencies that can result in poor immune function, fatigue and a <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32613096/">decrease in bone density</a>. Such restrictive diets can make it challenging to meet your nutritional needs. Sustainability Many fast weight loss diets restrict or exclude foods required for long-term health. Carbohydrates are often banned, yet wholegrain carbohydrates are an essential source of nutrition, helping with weight loss and <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0002822301001948">prevention of disease</a>. Including meal replacements as part of a restrictive diet is also not sustainable for long. <h2>The bottom line?</h2> Regardless of how you lose the weight, it’s very difficult to maintain losses. Our bodies work to keep our weight around a <a href="https://theconversation.com/whats-the-weight-set-point-and-why-does-it-make-it-so-hard-to-keep-weight-off-195724">set point</a> by adjusting our biological systems and imposing a series of <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4766925/">physiological changes</a> within the body to ensure we regain weight we lose. This stems from our hunter-gatherer ancestors, whose bodies developed this survival response to adapt to periods of deprivation when food was scarce. Successful long-term weight loss comes down to: 1. following evidence-based programs based on what we know about the science of obesity 2. losing weight under the supervision of qualified health-care professionals 3. making gradual changes to your lifestyle – diet, exercise and sleep – to ensure you form health habits that last a lifetime. At the Boden Group, Charles Perkins Centre, we are studying the science of obesity and running clinical trials for weight loss. You can register for free <a href="https://redcap.sydney.edu.au/surveys/?s=RKTXPPPHKY">here</a> to express your interest.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/198301/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/nick-fuller-219993">Nick Fuller</a>, Charles Perkins Centre Research Program Leader, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-sydney-841">University of Sydney</a> Image credits: Getty Images This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/is-it-true-the-faster-you-lose-weight-the-quicker-it-comes-back-heres-what-we-know-about-slow-and-fast-weight-loss-198301">original article</a>.

Body

"I can only do so much": we asked fast-fashion shoppers how ethical concerns shape their choices

You’ve found the perfect dress. You’ve tried it on before and you know it looks great. Now it’s on sale, a discount so large the store is practically giving it away. Should you buy it? For some of us it’s a no-brainer. For others it’s an ethical dilemma whenever we shop for clothes. <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JFMM-01-2019-0011/full/html">What matters more</a>? How the item was made or how much it costs? Is the most important information on the label or the price tag? Of the world’s industries that profit from worker exploitation, the <a href="https://www.globalslaveryindex.org/">fashion industry is notorious</a>, in part because of the sharp contrast between how fashion is made and how it is marketed. There are more people <a href="https://www.ilo.org/global/publications/books/WCMS_575479/lang--en/index.htm">working in exploitative conditions</a> than ever before. Globally, the garment industry employs millions of people, with <a href="https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro-bangkok/documents/briefingnote/wcms_758626.pdf">65 million garment sector workers in Asia alone</a>. The Clean Clothes Campaign estimates <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages">less than 1%</a> of what you pay for a typical garment goes to the workers who made it. <h2>How much does a worker make on a $30 shirt?</h2> Some work in conditions so exploitative they meet the definition of being <a href="https://www.commonobjective.co/article/modern-slavery-and-the-fashion-industry">modern slaves</a> – trapped in situations they can’t leave due to coercion and threats. But their plight is hidden by the distance between the worker and the buyer. Global supply chains have helped such exploitation to hide and thrive. Do we really care, and what can we do? We conducted <a href="https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158">in-depth interviews</a> with 21 women who buy “fast fashion” – “on-trend” clothing made and sold at very low cost – to find out how much they think about the conditions of the workers who make their clothes, and and what effort they take to avoid slave-free clothing. Well-known fast-fashion brands include H&M, Zara and Uniqlo. What they told us highlights the inadequacy of seeking to eradicate exploitation in the fashion industry by relying on consumers to do the heavy lifting. Struggling to seek reliable information on ethical practices, consumers are overwhelmed when trying to navigate ethical consumerism. <h2>Out of sight, out of mind</h2> The 21 participants in our research were women aged 18 to 55, from diverse backgrounds across Australia. We selected participants who were aware of exploitation in the fashion industry but had still bought fast fashion in the previous six months. This was not a survey but qualitative research involving in-depth interviews to understand the disconnect between awareness and action. Our <a href="https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158">key finding </a> is that clothing consumers’ physical and cultural distance from those who make the clothes makes it difficult to relate to their experience. Even if we’ve seen images of sweatshops, it’s still hard to comprehend what the working conditions are truly like. As Fiona*, a woman in her late 30s, put it: “I don’t think people care [but] it’s not in a nasty way. It’s like an out of sight, out of mind situation.” This problem of geographic and cultural distance between garment workers and fashion shoppers highlights the paucity of solutions premised on driving change in the industry through consumer activism. <h2>Who is responsible?</h2> Australia’s Modern Slavery Act, for example, tackles the problem only by requiring large companies to report to a <a href="https://modernslaveryregister.gov.au/">public register</a>on their efforts to identify risks of modern slavery in their supply chains and what they are doing to eliminate these risks. While greater transparency is certainly a big step forward for the industry, the legislation still presumes that the threat of reputational damage is enough to get industry players to change their ways. The success of the legislation falls largely on the ability of activist organisations to sift through and publicise the performance of companies in an effort to encourage consumers to hold companies accountable. All our interviewees told us they felt unfairly burdened with the responsibility to seek information on working conditions and ethical practices to hold retailers to account or to feel empowered to make the “correct” ethical choice. “It’s too hard sometimes to actually track down the line of whether something’s made ethically,” said Zoe*, a woman in her early 20s. Given that many retailers are themselves ignorant about <a href="https://www.afr.com/wealth/investing/companies-risk-litigation-over-modern-slavery-ignorance-20201215-p56nix">their own supply chains</a>, it is asking a lot to expect the average consumer to unravel the truth and make ethical shopping choices. <h2>Confusion + overwhelm = inaction</h2> “We have to shop according to what we care about, what is in line with our values, family values, budget,” said Sarah*, who is in her early 40s. She said she copes with feeling overwhelmed by ignoring some issues and focus on the ethical actions she knew would make a difference. “I’m doing so many other good things,” she said. “We can’t be perfect, and I can only do so much.” Other participants also talked about juggling considerations about environmental and social impacts. “It’s made in Bangladesh, but it’s 100% cotton, so, I don’t know, is it ethical?” is how Lauren*, a woman in her early 20s, put it. “It depends on what qualifies as ethical […] and what is just marketing.” Comparatively, participants felt their actions to mitigate environmental harm made a tangible difference. They could see the impact and felt rewarded and empowered to continue making positive change. This was not the case for modern slavery and worker rights more generally. Fast fashion is a lucrative market, with <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/the-billionaire-family-behind-fast-fashion-powerhouse-boohoo-2019-11?r=AU&IR=T">billions in profits made</a>thanks to the work of the lowest paid workers in the world. There is no denying consumers wield a lot of power, and we shouldn’t absolve consumers of their part in creating demand for the cheapest clothes humanly – or inhumanly – possible. But consumer choice alone is insufficient. We need a system where all our clothing choices are ethical, where we don’t need to make a choice between what is right and what is cheap. Image credits: Shutterstock This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/i-can-only-do-so-much-we-asked-fast-fashion-shoppers-how-ethical-concerns-shape-their-choices-172978" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Beauty & Style

We know sweatshop clothing is bad – and buy it anyway. Here’s how your brain makes excuses

You face a dilemma. You’ve found the perfect shirt, and it’s an absolute bargain, but you notice it’s “Made in Bangladesh”. You’re conscious it was probably made using cheap labour. Do you buy it, or walk away? Recently, Oxfam released its annual <a href="https://www.oxfam.org.au/what-she-makes/naughty-or-nice-2022/">Naughty or Nice</a> list. This list highlights retail brands committed to transparent sourcing, separating labour costs in price negations, and conducting a wage gap analysis to work towards paying workers a living wage. This list is one of several resources trying to encourage ethical consumption. Yet despite concerns of sweatshop labour, and consumers claiming they’re <a href="https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-981-10-2976-9_5">willing to pay more</a> for ethically-sourced clothes, there remains high demand for ultra-low-price mass-produced clothing. The explanation lies in a psychological phenomenon called <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/psychology/motivated-reasoning">motivated reasoning</a>. It explains how people convince themselves sweatshop labour is actually okay, as long as the product is desirable. <h2>The many costs of low-priced apparel</h2> Consumption is an individualistic act. It allows us to distinguish ourselves through our clothing, culture, and even the entertainment we consume. <a href="https://www.cairn.info/revue-rimhe-2016-5-page-45.htm">Ethical consumption</a> is when consumers consider the wider environmental and societal impacts of what they consume, including <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/0267257X.2012.659280">when they purchase clothing</a>. Revenue from the global apparel market is expected to reach <a href="https://www.statista.com/topics/5091/apparel-market-worldwide/#topicHeader__wrapper">US$2 trillion</a> (about A$3 trillion) by 2026. Asia remains the garment factory of the world. It accounts for 55% of global textiles and clothing exports, and employs some <a href="https://www.ilo.org/asia/media-centre/news/WCMS_848238/lang--en/index.htm">60 million workers</a>. And the International Labour Organisation has estimated <a href="https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_norm/---ipec/documents/publication/wcms_797515.pdf">160 million children</a>aged 5 to 17 were engaged in child labour at the beginning of 2020 – many of which would have worked in the fashion supply chain. <h2>Isn’t any job better than no job?</h2> A common defence by manufacturers that use exploitative labour arrangements is that such work is often <a href="https://scholar.uwindsor.ca/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1008&context=csspe">the best option available</a> for those workers. Workers voluntarily accept the conditions, and their employment helps with <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12122-006-1006-z">long-term economic development</a>. At the same time, emerging research argues sweatshops are the <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/0950017020926372">result of consumer choice</a>, wherein retailers are simply responding to a demand for ultra-low-price fashion. This infers that if there was no demand, there would be no sweatshops. But one problem with holding consumers responsible is that the vast majority aren’t aware of how their clothes are made. Despite “supply chain transparency” being credited for increasing <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/cb.1852">brand legitimacy and trust</a>, true transparency is <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10304312.2021.1993575?scroll=top&needAccess=true">difficult to attain</a>, even for retailers, due to the disjointed and <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestechcouncil/2022/03/18/why-fashion-supply-chain-traceability-is-a-tech-challenge-that-begins-with-ai/?sh=362e093d5f6d">distant elements</a> of how products move through the supply chain (which includes suppliers, producers, manufacturers, distributors and retailers). Our own <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158/full/html">research</a> into consumers’ perception of worker welfare found people struggle to connect the $5 shirt they bought with the person who made it, or how it was made. <h2>Motivated reasoning</h2> Oxfam’s Naughty or Nice list aims to name (and essentially shame) retail brands that fail to disclose which factories they source product from, and how they manage sourcing integrity. The logic is that if consumers are aware of which brands disclose their ethical sourcing strategies, then they’ll make more informed purchase decisions. Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. Our brains are wired to arrive at conclusions we prefer, as long as we maintain an <a href="https://psycnet.apa.org/fulltext/1991-06436-001.pdf?auth_token=dfa958470d287abcbf517c0362958f295e8fff44">illusion of objectivity</a>. And we do this even when the evidence is contrary to our beliefs. A person can consider themselves an ethical consumer (which forms part of their “<a href="https://positivepsychology.com/self-concept/">self-concept</a>”) and still buy a $5 shirt, though they suspect it may have been made in a sweatshop. They may tell themselves “any job is better than no job” for workers, or “money saved today is money to spend on the children tomorrow”. In doing so they convince themselves they have objectively considered the purchase. The <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1509/jmkr.45.6.633">theory of self-concept</a> explains how consumers can justify the “ethical burden” away. It also suggests people use higher-order thinking to rationalise and <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1207/s15327957pspr0303_3">justify personal transgressions</a>. Most of us are so distant from supply chain exploitation, and so hooked on scoring a bargain, that seeing a list of “naughty” retail brands won’t change our behaviour. <h2>Evidence of motivated reasoning</h2> Researchers have studied how we use motivated reasoning to arrive at <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0749597813000149">more preferable outcomes</a> that help protect our self-concept. In one experiment they examined whether participants would use economic justifications (such as “any job is better than no job”) to book a Caribbean holiday at a resort associated with questionable labour practices. They found participants were likely to rationalise their choice and take the holiday despite claims of exploitative working conditions. In a second study they explored the link between justifications for sweatshop labour and product desirability. As predicted, economic justifications were higher for highly desirable sweatshop-made shoes. Other studies have found motivated reasoning being employed to justify <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0146167299025001003">keeping overpayments</a> and <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10551-017-3698-9">self-allocating annual bonuses</a>, among <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/17524032.2014.932817">other examples</a>. <h2>How can you shop more ethically?</h2> The bottom line is ethical consumption must be internally motivated. The good news is once you have this motivation, there are a number of resources to help you. Knowledge is power Oxfam’s Naughty or Nice report, Clean Clothes’ <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/campaigns/the-accord/brand-tracker">Brand Tracker</a>, <a href="https://www.fairwear.org/">Fair Wear</a>, <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/about/">Good On You</a>, and Fashion Revolution’s <a href="https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/transparency/">Fashion Transparency Index</a> are all great resources to identify which brands disclose their social policies, practices, and impacts in their operations and supply chain. Brand accreditations Most brands will disclose if they have their ethical credentials certified by organisations such as <a href="https://ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au/about/">Ethical Clothing Australia</a>, <a href="https://www.wrapcompliance.org/">WRAP</a> or <a href="https://www.fairtrade.net/about/certification">Fairtrade International</a>. These <a href="https://ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au/steps-to-accreditation/">accreditations</a> generally involve a rigorous process of independent eligibility tests, compliance with guidelines and external annual audits. Self-reporting Many leading brands provide their policies on ethical sourcing and slave labour online (see <a href="https://www.kmart.com.au/modernslavery/">Kmart and Target</a> and <a href="https://www.wesfarmers.com.au/docs/default-source/sustainability/sustainability-documents/2108261641-wesfarmers-approach-to-human-rights.pdf?sfvrsn=237912bb_20#xd_co_f=ODY2ZWYyMGYtMDY4My00ZmQ1LTg4NmEtNjBjOTM0YmFhM2Nm%7E">Wesfamers</a>). Make sure the claims are made in accordance with reporting requirements from <a href="https://www.homeaffairs.gov.au/criminal-justice/Pages/modern-slavery.aspx">Australia’s Modern Slavery Act 2018</a>. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/we-know-sweatshop-clothing-is-bad-and-buy-it-anyway-heres-how-your-brain-makes-excuses-192944" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Beauty & Style

3 major toxins have been found in popular clothing brands – here’s what to know

The rise of fast fashion Fast fashion may cycle through trends at the speed of light – but it certainly has staying power. As PC Magazine reported this past July, the online retailer Shein dethroned Amazon as the most popular shopping app in the world. But the meteoric rise of some comparable fashion brands is troubling some health experts. In 2021, a team of researchers at the University of Toronto ran tests on some popular clothing and accessories brands. For one fast fashion brand in particular, they found that one in every five items contained unsafe levels of lead. And it’s not just fast fashion – or, just lead – that is prompting concern about unsuspected toxins in our everyday products. The University of Toronto report also identified another group of chemicals, called phthalates, that the researchers stated were present in some of the clothing they tested. Plus, earlier this year, Environmental Protection Agency-certified labs detected PFAs (per- and polyfluorinated substances) in activewear from popular consumer brands that also may contain PFAS, according to the non-profit consumer organisation Fashion FWD. From cosmetics and soaps to plastic bottles and even our food, we’re surrounded by chemicals in our daily lives. But just how much should we worry about the chemicals lurking in our clothes? Why are chemicals used in clothes? As Dr Kelly Johnson-Arbor, a medical toxicology physician explains: “Fast fashion clothing is often manufactured in developing countries that may not have stringent standards for keeping harmful chemicals out of clothing.” This means that almost all of the clothing items in our closets and drawers are more or less unregulated, meaning we’re relying on retailers to self-police their factories’ chemical usage. And according to the 2021 Fashion Revolution Transparency Index, only 26% of the world’s major clothing brands use a “Manufacturing Restricted Substances List,” which aims to eliminate hazardous chemicals in their factories. But why are hazardous chemicals used in clothing in the first place? Let’s look at three of the main fashion offenders: Lead is often used by manufacturers for dyeing fabrics – particularly those that are brightly coloured, says Trevor Cates, ND, a naturopathic physician and author of the September 2022 book, Natural Beauty Reset. PFAS generally turn up in clothing items as a coating to make products waterproof, stain-resistant and breathable, according to a study by the Colorado Public Interest Research Group. Phthalates work to soften plastic and make it more durable, and so they’re sometimes spun into fabrics to make them soft and pliable, according to the Office of Science and Society at McGill University. They’re also common in waterproof items like rain jackets, faux leather, screen-printed t-shirts, and see-through accessories, like clear shoes, bags and umbrellas. How do fashion chemicals affect your health? The goal of the 1978 ban on leaded paint was implemented to prevent accidental lead ingestion, such as from kids putting paint chips in their mouths or inhaling lead-containing dust. “Lead is definitely associated with adverse health effects – including developmental delays,” Dr Johnson-Arbor explains. A 2018 study published in Environmental Science and Pollution Research International illustrated what can happen even if lead is not consumed by mouth. The study suggested that chemicals from clothing can transfer to, penetrate and accumulate in our skin. (The study authors noted that more research was needed for a closer analysis of each specific hazardous chemical of concern.) However, a 2019 peer-reviewed study looked specifically at phthalates in infant clothing and found that clothing does play an important role in exposure to textile chemicals. Lead “Lead is a heavy metal,” Dr Cates says. “And what happens with heavy metals is that our body takes them up and stores them in our bones, our blood and our tissues.” So, while exposure to high levels of lead is dangerous (lead poisoning can cause anaemia, weakness, kidney failure, brain damage and death, according to the Centers of Disease Control and Prevention – prolonged, low-grade exposure can grow problematic. As lead stores up in our bodies, chronic symptoms can start to emerge, Dr Cates explains. These may include abdominal pain, constipation, forgetfulness, nausea, and depression. “Lead in particular has been connected to infertility,” she adds. The CDC says that people with long-term exposure to lead are also at a greater risk for high blood pressure, kidney disease, and heart disease. These symptoms can also worsen with age – especially for women. When oestrogen levels drop after menopause, bones can start to deteriorate, Dr Cates says. “The lead that’s stored in the bones will then start to be released in the bloodstream, it’s like you become toxic all over again.” PFAS “These are known as ‘forever chemicals,’” Dr Cates says. “They persist in the environment, and they also don’t easily get out of the human body.” PFAS are also considered “endocrine-disrupting chemicals” because they can mimic hormones in the body – and they’re extremely common in our lives. Dr Cates says that since the use of PFAS became so widespread, signs of hormonal imbalances are on the rise: greater rates of thyroid disease, breast and prostate cancer, breast development in young boys and the number of women having menstrual problems. The CDC adds that current research suggests high levels of PFAS exposure may also cause high cholesterol, low infant birth weight, changes in liver enzymes, increased risk of pre-eclampsia (high blood pressure) in pregnant women, decreased vaccine response in children and an increased risk of kidney and testicular cancer. Phthalates Phthalates are another group of endocrine-disrupting chemicals. While Dr Johnson-Arbor emphasises there is still plenty to learn about the health effects of phthalates (and PFAS), a 2022 review of research found strong evidence that phthalate exposure is associated with low semen quality, childhood asthma and neurodevelopment problems. The researchers said that there’s also moderate evidence that phthalates can increase the risk of low infant birth weight, endometriosis, low testosterone, ADHD, Type 2 diabetes, and breast or uterine cancer. How to shop safely You can’t sell a $4 t-shirt without cutting some health and safety corners, so Dr Cates’ main recommendation to limit your chemical exposure is to avoid fast fashion retailers altogether. Look for sustainable brands that prioritise natural fabrics and materials, such as cotton, linen, hemp, silk or bamboo. And keep a lookout for chemical keywords such as “stain-resistant,” “waterproof,” and “shrink-proof.” “Since lead is most harmful to young children, people can avoid dressing their infants and children in fast fashion clothing to avoid childhood exposures,” adds Dr Johnson-Arbor. “I am most concerned with children’s potential exposure to these chemicals, specifically lead.” Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.co.nz/healthsmart/3-major-toxins-have-been-found-in-popular-clothing-brands-heres-what-to-know" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.

Beauty & Style

Mapping the labour and slavery risks in fashion supply chains

<div class="copy"> How did your clothes get to you, and who was properly paid for them in the process? The garment industry is notorious for worker exploitation and complicated, unclear supply chains. Both within and without the fashion industry, forced labour, and modern slavery, is on the rise. According to the new <a href="https://publications.iom.int/books/global-estimates-modern-slavery-forced-labour-and-forced-marriage" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Global Estimates of Modern Slavery</a> report, there were 50 million people around the world living in modern slavery: 28 million in forced labour, and 22 million in forced marriages. This is an increase of 10 million from when the report was done in 2016 – among other things, the number has been exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, climate change and armed conflicts. What does the garment supply chain look like? Cosmos investigates. <h2>The shape of the garment industry: four tiers (sort of)</h2> “In a broad sense, when retailers talk about their supply chains, they tend to talk with tiers zero to four,” explains Dr Alice Payne, an associate professor in fashion at Queensland University of Technology. Tier 0 is the company’s direct operations: retail, offices, and distribution centres, for instance. Each additional tier is a layer removed from them. “Tier 1 is the people and the organizations constructing the garments for them – so assembling and manufacturing,” says Payne. Tier 2 is fabric production, while Tier 3 is the production of the yarn that makes the fabric. “Tier 4 is raw materials,” says Payne. “Natural fibres like cotton and wool, that’s all the way back to the farm, or the forests that the trees come from that are then processed into viscose material. And the petrochemical industry, which is the feedstock for polyester, nylons, acrylics and so on.” In reality, there aren’t clear lines between these tiers – particularly further up the supply chain. Even something as ubiquitous as cotton has a very complicated history. “You’ve got the seed inputs to grow the cotton on the farm, the cotton has to be ginned – the seed and the lint separated – and then from the ginning, it’s shipped to a spinner to make it into a yarn. “Then the yarn producer will ship it often to other countries to be manufactured into a cloth. At any point along the chain, it might be dyed,” says Payne. “They can span the world over in terms of geographic location and can be really complex,” says Abigail Munroe, a modern slavery research and policy analyst at human rights group Walk Free, which compiled the Global Estimates of Modern Slavery report with the United Nation’s International Labour Organization and the International Organisation for Migration. <h2>The labour distribution along the supply chain</h2> Workers aren’t distributed evenly across these tiers. Spindles and looms are both highly mechanised processes, making the middle tiers less labour-intensive. The raw materials in Tier 4 can be equally mechanised, or labour-intensive to make, depending on the fibre. Assembling garments in Tier 1, however, demands a huge workforce. “It’s part of the nature of cloth – it’s fluid and malleable,” says Payne. “In the robotics space, they talk about how it might take months to teach a machine to fold a t -shirt because it’s just such a such a very difficult thing to manoeuvre and manipulate cloth.” Each seam on your clothes needs to be guided manually through a sewing machine – which is something of a boon for poorer countries wanting to bring in more industry. “The textile industry is often the first rung on the ladder for a country that’s industrialising,” says Payne. “What’s an industry to bring into a country when you’ve got a large labour force? Well, often garment assembly, because it’s fairly light machinery.” But this also comes with risks. <h2>Who gets paid</h2> According to the <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Clean Clothes Campaign</a>, a T-shirt which sells for €29 (A$43) sends €0.18 (A$0.27) back to the Bangladeshi garment worker who sewed it. Walk Free’s <a href="https://www.walkfree.org/reports/beyond-compliance-in-the-garment-industry/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Beyond Compliance in the Garment Industry</a> report has found similar levels of low payment across the supply chain. “In our assessment, workers would need to be earning almost 40% more to have their basic needs met,” says Munroe. Exploitation may be worse in the more distant tiers. “In general, across any kind of industry, workers further down the supply chains tend to face increased modern slavery risks,” says Munroe. “That can be for a number of reasons – some of these being that they’re more likely to work in the informal economy, and they’re more likely to be invisible to policies designed to protect them.” <iframe title="Huh? Science Explained" src="https://omny.fm/shows/huh-science-explained/playlists/podcast/embed?selectedClip=c7003c2f-954f-4ebf-b826-af090009d3ac&style=cover&autoplay=0&list=0" width="100%" height="180" frameborder="0"></iframe> <h2>Tracing slavery</h2> Governments have taken steps to make companies monitor these supply chains, but there are still gaps in the legislation. In Australia, for instance, the <a href="https://www.legislation.gov.au/Details/C2018A00153" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">2018 Modern Slavery Act</a> requires companies with an annual revenue over A$100 million to produce annual reports on their supply chains and modern slavery risks within those chains. The UK has <a href="https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/30/contents/enacted" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">similar legislation</a>. Walk Free’s annual Beyond Compliance reports, track these disclosures and so far, they’ve looked at the hospitality, finance, and garment industries. While most of the garment companies in this year’s analysis had statements addressing modern slavery (an improvement on the hospitality and finance industries), 33% still didn’t meet minimum requirements set out by the acts. Over a quarter of companies didn’t produce any supply chain disclosure at all, while among those that did disclose, only 35% went beyond Tier 1. “There’s actually no penalties for companies that are within the threshold of the act, but don’t actually produce a statement,” says Munroe. And, even if those requirements are met, there’s little motivation to improve on reports. “We certainly see statements that are clearly being used as a box ticking activity,” says Munroe. “For both of those acts, even the Australian act which has more involved requirements, it’s completely disclosure-based. So simply reporting that the company needs to do more in relation to supply chain mapping or risk assessment – that’s enough.” Stricter legislation, such as the regulations <a href="https://www.csis.org/analysis/european-union-releases-draft-mandatory-human-rights-and-environmental-due-diligence" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">currently being proposed by the EU</a>, might include financial penalties for failing to comply, alongside obligations to prevent and mitigate human rights abuses right through the supply chain. The Australian government is <a href="https://consultations.ag.gov.au/crime/modern-slavery-act-review/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">currently reviewing</a> its modern slavery act, with a consultation period closing in just over a month. Future changes to the act might increase compliance – but for now, most of the places you buy clothes from aren’t making it clear where the garments have come from – or who’s being properly paid to make them. Image credits: Getty Images  <img id="cosmos-post-tracker" style="opacity: 0; height: 1px!important; width: 1px!important; border: 0!important; position: absolute!important; z-index: -1!important;" src="https://syndication.cosmosmagazine.com/?id=213724&title=Mapping+the+labour+and+slavery+risks+in+fashion+supply+chains" width="1" height="1" /> </div> <div id="contributors"> This article was originally published on <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/people/garment-supply-chain-slavery/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cosmosmagazine.com</a> and was written by Ellen Phiddian. </div>

Beauty & Style

As countries ranging from Indonesia to Mexico aim to attract digital nomads, locals say ‘not so fast’

Should your community welcome <a href="https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/digital%20nomad">digital nomads</a> – individuals who work remotely, allowing them freedom to bounce from country to country? <a href="https://global.oup.com/academic/product/digital-nomads-9780190931780?cc=us&lang=en&">Our research</a> has found that workers are eager to embrace the flexibility of not being tied to an office. And after experiencing economic losses due to the COVID-19 pandemic, cities and countries are concocting ways to entice visitors. One idea involves stretching the meaning of tourism to include remote workers. Today, a growing number of countries offer so-called “<a href="https://nomadgirl.co/countries-with-digital-nomad-visas/">digital nomad visas</a>.” These visas allow longer stays for remote workers and provide clarity about allowable work activities. For example, officials in Bali, Indonesia, are looking to formalize a process for remote workers to procure visas – “<a href="https://coconuts.co/bali/features/the-faster-the-better-bali-tourism-agency-head-tjokorda-bagus-pemayun-talks-digital-nomad-visa-plans-and-what-it-means-for-the-island/">the faster, the better</a>,” as the head of the island’s tourism agency put it. Yet pushback from locals in cities ranging <a href="https://time.com/6072062/barcelona-tourism-residents-covid/">from Barcelona</a> to <a href="https://nypost.com/2022/07/28/mexico-city-residents-angered-by-influx-of-americans-speaking-english-gentrifying-area-report/">Mexico City</a> has made it clear that there are costs and benefits to an influx of remote workers. As we explain in our new book, “Digital Nomads: In Search of Freedom, Community, and Meaningful Work in the New Economy,” the trend of “work tourism” <a href="https://global.oup.com/academic/product/digital-nomads-9780190931780?cc=us&lang=en&">comes with a host of drawbacks</a>. <h2>Wearing out their welcome</h2> For as long as there’s been tourism, locals have griped about the outsiders who come and go. These travelers are usually a welcome boost to the economy – <a href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/overtourism">up to a point</a>. They can also wear out their welcome. Perhaps the classic example is <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-06-25/venice-reinventing-itself-as-sustainable-tourism-capital">Venice</a>, where high numbers of tourists stress the canal-filled city’s fragile infrastructure. In the U.S., New Jersey shore residents have long used the term “<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoobie">shoobies</a>” to denigrate the annual throng of short-term summer tourists. In our research on digital nomads in Bali, locals referred to digital nomads and other tourists as “bules” – a word that roughly translates as “foreigners.” Generally the terms are used to express minor annoyance over crowds and increased traffic. But conventional tourists come and go – their stays usually range from a couple of nights to a couple of weeks. Remote workers stay anywhere from weeks to months – or longer. They spend more time using places and resources traditionally dedicated to the local residents. This raises the chances that outsiders become a grating presence. Excessive numbers of visitors can also raise sustainability concerns, as waves of tourists tax the environment and infrastructure of many destinations. Many of Bali’s beautiful rice fields and surrounding lush forests, for example, are being converted into hotels and villas to serve tourism. <h2>Digital nomads look to stretch their dollars</h2> Whether they’re lazing around or plugging away on their laptops, privileged tourists ultimately change the economics and demographics of an area. Their buying power increases costs and displaces residents, while traditional businesses make way for ones that cater to their tastes. <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-food-became-the-perfect-beachhead-for-gentrification-167761">Where once there was a neighborhood food stand</a>, now there’s an upscale cafe. This dynamic is only exacerbated by long-term tourists. Services like VRBO and Airbnb make it easy for digital nomads to rent apartments for weeks or months at a time, and <a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/business-45083954">people around the world are increasingly alarmed</a> at how quickly such rentals can change the affordability and character of a place. Living a vacation lifestyle on a long-term basis implies a need to choose lower-cost destinations. This means that remote workers may particularly contribute to gentrification as they seek out places where their dollars go furthest. In <a href="https://travelnoire.com/digital-nomads-see-why-mexicans-are-fed-up-with-them">Mexico City</a>, residents fear displacement by remote workers able to pay higher rents. In response to calls to choose Mexico City as a remote working destination, one local succinctly expressed opposition: “<a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods/22999722/mexico-city-pandemic-remote-work-gentrification">Please don’t</a>.” And in <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2019/mar/13/new-orleans-airbnb-treme-short-term-rentals">New Orleans</a>, almost half of all properties in the historic <a href="https://nola.curbed.com/2018/5/16/17356630/treme-new-orleans-neighborhood-history-pictures">Tremé district</a> – one of the oldest Black neighborhoods in the U.S. – have been converted to short-term rentals, displacing longtime residents. <h2>Culture becomes commodified</h2> <a href="https://suitcasemag.com/articles/neocolonial-tourism">Neocolonialism</a> in tourism refers to the way processes such as overtourism and gentrification create a power imbalance that favors newcomers and erodes local ways of life. “There’s a distinction between people who want to learn about the place they are in and those who just like it because it’s cheap,” one digital nomad living in Mexico City <a href="https://www.latimes.com/world-nation/story/2022-07-27/americans-are-flooding-mexico-city-some-mexicans-want-them-to-go-home">recently told the Los Angeles Times</a>. “I’ve met a number of people who don’t really care that they’re in Mexico, they just care that it’s cheap.” Bali, where <a href="https://www.aseantoday.com/2020/10/balis-economy-struggles-to-survive-without-tourists/">as much as 80%</a> of the island’s economy is estimated to be affected by tourism, offers a stark example. People come to Bali to be immersed in the culture’s spiritual rituals, art, nature and dance. But there’s also resentment over yoga lovers, resortgoers and digital nomads “taking over” the island. And some locals come to see the tourism in and around temples and rituals as the transformation of something cherished – the nuanced and spiritual aspects of their culture – into experiences to be bought and sold. For instance, Balinese dance performances are huge tourist draws and are even featured in global promotions for tourism on the island. Yet these performances also have cultural and spiritual meaning, and the impact of tourism on these aspects of dance is <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/37628994_Authenticity_and_commodification_of_Balinese_dance_performances">debated even among performers</a>. So there is inevitably friction, which can be seen in the high levels of <a href="https://coconuts.co/bali/features/living-in-a-petty-crimes-paradise-balis-unreported-thefts-and-muggings/">petty crime</a>against foreigners. Neocolonialism can also pit people from the same country or culture against one another. For example, <a href="https://www.travelmole.com/news/bali-taxi-wars-flare-again/">conflicts arise</a> between local Balinese taxi cooperatives and taxi services that employ drivers from other parts of Indonesia. Although remote employees still make up a small portion of the overall tourist population, their work-related needs and longer stays mean they’re more likely to use services and places frequented by locals. Whether this leads digital nomads to be welcomed or scorned likely depends on both government policies and tourists’ behavior. Will governments take measures such as protecting locals from mass evictions, or will landlords’ desire for higher rents prevail? Will guests live lightly and blend in, trying to learn the local language and culture? Or will they simply focus on working hard and playing harder? As remote work reaches an unprecedented scale, the answers to such questions may determine whether “<a href="https://coconuts.co/bali/features/the-faster-the-better-bali-tourism-agency-head-tjokorda-bagus-pemayun-talks-digital-nomad-visa-plans-and-what-it-means-for-the-island/">the faster, the better</a>” attitude toward digital nomad visas and other incentives continues. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/as-countries-ranging-from-indonesia-to-mexico-aim-to-attract-digital-nomads-locals-say-not-so-fast-189283" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Travel Tips

Cathy Freeman's daughter following in her FAST footsteps

Ruby Anne Susie Murch, the daughter of Aussie Olympic legend Cathy Freeman, has stunned onlookers after smashing the field in a district school carnival in Victoria. The youngster with the world-class pedigree easily took out first place in her age group's 200m race. Her relaxed running style had the crowd shocked, with those trackside comparing it to her famous mum. Freeman of course snagged Olympic gold in the 400m final at the Sydney games in 2000, launching her to instant stardom around the world. Freeman's daughter also competed in the 100m sprint, relay and high jump at the same carnival at the Murrumbeena athletics facility. <a href="https://www.couriermail.com.au/news/victoria/freemans-daughter-blitzes-race/video/54a19052026fd04e8ca43fad3315682c" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Footage shows</a> the 11-year-old sprinting ahead of her classmates in the 200m, crossing the finish line comfortably ahead of fellow competitors and coming in first place. Freeman, who is married to stockbroker James Murch, is famously private about her personal life.

Family & Pets

Fast fashion: why your online returns may end up in landfill – and what can be done about it

Fashion has a notorious environmental footprint, accounting for up to <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmental-impact/">10%</a> of global carbon dioxide output. This is exacerbated by a fast fashion business model which encourages the frequent purchase of low-priced and non-durable items. Around <a href="https://fashionunited.uk/news/retail/return-rates-are-on-the-rise/2022020661142">30%</a> of online purchases are subsequently returned, much of which goes to landfill. In 2020, an estimated <a href="https://www.optoro.com/2021/02/03/returns-report-powering-resilient-retail-in-2020/">2.6 million tonnes</a> of returns were disposed of this way in the US alone. The problem has become so notorious that the online retailer Boohoo recently followed a number of high street brands in starting to <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-62140633">charge for returns</a> in order to discourage them. But what are the reasons for high returns and why are many returned items not being re-sold? The pandemic fundamentally changed the way we shop, with the temporary closure of physical stores representing a boon for online retailers. However, online retail’s surging market share has origins in long-standing fast fashion marketing practices. The premium placed on newness, low prices, and both free delivery and returns, all encourage customers to purchase multiple options with the knowledge they can return items freely (known as <a href="https://www.voguebusiness.com/consumers/bracketing-fashions-hidden-returns-problem#:%7E:text=The%20process%2C%20known%20as%20bracketing%2C%20is%20weighing%20heavy%20on%20retailers.&text=To%20receive%20the%20Vogue%20Business,and%20send%20back%20the%20rest.">“bracketing”).</a> Buy-now-pay-later schemes, such as <a href="https://www.klarna.com/uk/business/">Klarna</a>, that allow customers to order without upfront payment have accelerated online consumption. Research indicates that by offering such “payment solutions”, retailers will typically see a <a href="https://www.klarna.com/assets/sites/2/2020/01/15150545/Shopify2.0_US_final_2.pdf">68% increase</a> in average order value. <a href="https://securecdn.pymnts.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Buy-Now-Pay-Later-February-2020-Tracker.pdf">Industry research suggests</a> that cart abandonment rates decrease by nearly 40% after the introduction of payment solutions. Discount events such as “Black Friday” also drive sales, with fashion accounting for around <a href="https://www.pwc.co.uk/industries/retail-consumer/insights/festive-predictions.html">one-third</a> of all Black Friday spend. <h2>Fast fashion is synonymous with returns</h2> Despite the appeal of low prices and discounts, cheaply manufactured fast fashion items can typically exhibit quality and fit issues, so are synonymous with returns. Impulsive spending, driven by discounts, also often leads to <a href="https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/finder-deals-buyers-remorse-1234652035/">regret</a>, again increasing the incidence of return. The <a href="https://www.statista.com/forecasts/997848/returns-of-online-purchases-by-category-in-the-uk">32% return rate</a> for clothing orders therefore dwarfs that of other e-commerce sectors, comparing to just 7% in consumer electronics. For retailers, processing returns is also fraught with uncertainty and complexity. Which items will be returned, and in what state, is unknown. Often, once used, little can be done to make them desirable for re-purchase. This is particularly true in the case of “<a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2019/sep/18/is-wardrobing-ever-acceptable-shoppers">wardrobing</a>”, where a purchased item is worn once before being returned. Retailers not only encounter financial loss through reprocessing, they risk a spoiled <a href="https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/fashion-news/pretty-little-thing-leggings-arrived-22675252">reputation</a> if worn or damaged items are recirculated. ASOS previously announced that they would clamp down on “wardrobing” by closing the accounts of fraudulent returners. However, the threat of a bad review often leaves the retailer with <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/money/2022/jul/16/buy-now-try-later-online-clothing-sales-boom-raises-qualms-over-returns">little option</a> but to refund. Many retailers instead sell these returns on to liquidators, who turn the obsolete goods into fast cash. A cursory look on eBay reveals dozens of pallets of “Amazon customer returns” available to the highest bidder. <h2>The challenges facing retailers</h2> Both the cost of processing returns, and their increased volume, represent a challenge for retailers. The substantial reprocessing costs involved in product returns means that for fast fashion items, they often exceed the potential resale revenue. The remuneration of comparatively high-cost domestic workers within labour-intensive returns reprocessing is widely considered responsible for this. Getting rid of returns therefore often constitutes the most cost-effective decision. An ITV <a href="https://www.itv.com/news/2021-06-21/amazon-destroying-millions-of-items-of-unsold-stock-in-one-of-its-uk-warehouses-every-year-itv-news-investigation-finds">investigation</a> into Amazon’s Dunfermline warehouse claimed the online retailer disposed of tens of thousands of returned consumer goods each week. Amazon said none of its items went to landfill but were instead donated, recycled or incinerated for energy recovery. The fashion industry collectively produces <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s43017-020-0039-9.pdf">over 92 million tonnes</a> of textile waste per year. In the US alone, clothing returns <a href="https://eco-age.com/resources/tackling-the-unsustainable-rate-of-returns/">create more</a> annual carbon dioxide emissions than 3 million cars. Carbon dioxide is initially emitted through the collection of returns, before increasing as returns are either incinerated or deposited in landfill. Due to the prevalence of synthetic fibres in fast fashion, returns can take <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7796070/">up to 100 years</a> to fully decompose, emitting carbon dioxide and methane in the process, as well as leaching harmful substances into the surrounding soil. <h2>How are retailers tackling the returns issue?</h2> While the environmental implications of product returns are clear, fashion retailers also have a financial incentive to tackle the issue of costly returns management. Due to the complexities surrounding reprocessing, fashion retailers are increasingly outsourcing the responsibility to specialist firms, such as ReBound Returns, which work with retailers to make the returns process more sustainable. ReBound encourage retailers to donate returned consumer goods to charity through their ReBound Regift facility. This has so far facilitated charitable donations worth <a href="https://www.reboundreturns.com/service/regift?hsCtaTracking=8e729b68-7056-4ddd-a698-e1772cd6f777%7Cf011996e-1bad-46d8-8148-e886d482f03a">£190 million</a>. ASOS <a href="https://www.asos.com/responsible-fashion/packaging-and-delivery/6-ways-our-returns-are-more-responsible/">states</a> that 97% of their returns are now resold, and no items are sent to landfill. As Boohoo’s recent move shows, several online retailers have attempted to pass the cost of returns onto customers. While the reasoning for this is primarily financial, the impact of similar policies in improving customers’ environmental consciousness is well-known. Since 2015, plastic bag usage has <a href="https://www.gov.uk/government/news/10p-bag-charge-turns-the-tide-on-plastic-waste">dropped 97%</a> in England’s main supermarkets, following the introduction of a small charge. Despite calls for greater sustainability within the fashion industry, fast fashion continues to flourish. Should marketing practices that encourage waste and fuel emissions persist, the fashion industry will retain its unwanted reputation as a significant contributor to climate change. Retailers must reconsider the unintended effects of the leniency afforded by their returns policies, balancing the need for customer retention with environmental consciousness. Image credits: Shutterstock This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/fast-fashion-why-your-online-returns-may-end-up-in-landfill-and-what-can-be-done-about-it-188090" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Beauty & Style

Time to remove vaccine mandates? Not so fast – it could have unintended consequences

Several Australian states have used mandates to drive up COVID vaccination rates. Governments justified the mandates on the basis of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=479962466825937&set=pb.100044365632393.-2207520000..&type=3">preventing the spread of disease</a> and <a href="https://statements.qld.gov.au/statements/93754">protecting the vulnerable</a>. Now many states are rolling back these mandates, with Queensland <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-04-05/qld-coronavirus-covid19-vaccination-mandate-eased-april-14/100958850">removing the requirement to show you’re vaccinated</a> before entering cafes, pubs, galleries and other public spaces from tomorrow. It would be nice to think that when mandates have served their purpose, they can be removed. In practice, removing mandates may affect public attitudes about the importance of vaccination and the likelihood of getting boosters. Remind me, what were the mandates? <a href="https://theconversation.com/vaccine-passports-are-coming-to-australia-how-will-they-work-and-what-will-you-need-them-for-167531">Public space mandates</a> involve governments mandating that venues (such as restaurants, libraries and sporting venues) check individuals’ vaccination status and <a href="https://theconversation.com/is-it-time-to-rethink-vaccine-mandates-for-dining-fitness-and-events-we-asked-5-experts-176356">exclude the unvaccinated</a>. This is facilitated by <a href="https://theconversation.com/could-a-france-style-vaccine-mandate-for-public-spaces-work-in-australia-legally-yes-but-its-complicated-165814">vaccine passports and certificates</a>. <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0264410X21015309?via%3Dihub">Government employment mandates</a> involve governments requiring workers in specific industries to be vaccinated. Businesses and organisations may also implement their own policies requiring the vaccination of their staff, their clients, or both. Most states and territories embraced public space mandates and all have required vaccination of aged and health-care workers. But many are on their way out. NSW eased its requirements last year. South Australia has recently revoked mandates for police, teachers and transport workers. Queensland’s new policy is noted above. Victoria, Western Australia, and the Northern Territory are sitting with their existing requirements for now. What could happen next? It’s unclear what impact removing vaccine mandates will have in Australia. However, we can learn from other public health measures and COVID vaccine mandates implemented overseas. Seat-belt laws converted a government requirement into a widespread social norm. Car manufacturers reinforced the norm with vehicles that beep at us when we don’t comply. But just because something has become habitual doesn’t mean we can lose the law. If governments removed the seat-belt law now and expected us to comply because we are informed, educated, and socialised, some people would still conclude that seat belts are no longer important. Removal of a requirement can send a bad message. The Italian government learned this when the region of Veneto suspended childhood vaccine mandates for four childhood vaccines in 2007. Officials thought the region’s wealthy and educated population would continue to vaccinate their children if the regional government provided strong education and messaging. They were <a href="https://doi.org/10.1007/s11077-021-09427-1">wrong</a>. Their strategy worked until there was a national vaccine scare in 2012. Vaccination rates in Veneto plummeted faster than anywhere else in the country. Eventually, the national government <a href="https://research-repository.uwa.edu.au/en/publications/recent-vaccine-mandates-in-the-united-states-europe-and-australia">mandated more vaccines</a> for the whole country. Other countries have already experimented with introducing, removing, and sometimes re-introducing mandates. Some, such as <a href="https://www.thelancet.com/journals/lanres/article/PIIS2213-2600(22)00063-7/fulltext">Austria</a> and the <a href="https://www.instituteforgovernment.org.uk/explainers/vaccine-mandates">United Kingdom</a>, have flip-flopped, providing little opportunity to study the impact of their mandates’ introduction or removal. Israel, which vaccinated its population promptly with Pfizer to the envy of the world, used a “public space” mandate (with an opt-out of a negative COVID test). The mandate has been <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8582817/">switched on and off</a> depending on the disease situation at the time. Unfortunately, Israelis’ uptake of subsequent doses has <a href="https://datadashboard.health.gov.il/COVID-19/general">dropped over time</a>, but its government still <a href="https://www.news.com.au/world/coronavirus/global/israel-rolls-back-green-pass-as-prime-minister-declares-the-covid-wave-is-breaking/news-story/b6f9ce495359166126b16c477af062b3">ended the mandate</a> in February. Mandates are also not without <a href="https://www.mja.com.au/journal/2021/215/11/policy-considerations-mandatory-covid-19-vaccination-collaboration-social">risks and costs</a>. They can provoke reactance, making those who are reluctant to vaccinate more determined not to do so. They may also prompt activism against vaccines and mandates. High vaccination rates help contain COVID One of the biggest challenges is nobody knows what the next phase of COVID will look like. Neither infection nor the current vaccines provide long-lasting immunity. We don’t know whether the next strain will continue the trajectory towards less serious symptoms started by Omicron (and helped by high vaccination rates). Whether we continue to be able to stay on top of COVID and whether the disease continues to remain less severe in most people infected will depend on maintaining high vaccination coverage rates. Governments across the nation and the world have struggled to get third doses into populations at the same level and with the same enthusiasm people showed towards the first two. Uptake in paediatric populations is also lagging in Australia – and there are no mandates. Now adults are being asked to prepare for and accept our fourth doses. Leading the way Western Australia has one of the highest rates of uptake in the country, with 76.7% of people aged over 16 <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=533610064794510&set=a.263657845123068">triple dosed</a>. This compares with the <a href="https://www.health.gov.au/sites/default/files/documents/2022/04/covid-19-vaccine-rollout-update-8-april-2022.pdf">national average</a> of 52.3%. It’s no coincidence the state’s employment mandates, which cover 75% of the workforce, require workers have their third dose within a month of becoming eligible. The WA mandate did not contain three doses to begin with, but it was very easy for the government to build it in. Faced with rolling back the mandate or keeping it operational for the fourth dose, the government will have to grapple with whether the population continues to support these measures – and there are definitely people who reluctantly accepted two doses and are not prepared to keep having more. WA’s public space mandate only covers two doses for now. WA’s COVID vaccination experience has shown that mandates, including for third doses, drive high levels of uptake, and are <a href="https://www.ijhpm.com/article_4210.html">easy for governments to implement</a>. However, much of the rest of Australia is moving in an opposite direction to WA in removing its mandates. As we live through the continued natural experiment of living with COVID – and not allowing it to defeat us – we now move into a new phase of making sense of what to do with the policy instruments governments used.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/180781/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/katie-attwell-94905" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Katie Attwell</a>, Associate professor, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/the-university-of-western-australia-1067" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The University of Western Australia</a> This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/time-to-remove-vaccine-mandates-not-so-fast-it-could-have-unintended-consequences-180781" target="_blank" rel="noopener">original article</a>. Image: Getty Images

Domestic Travel

Do you shop for second-hand clothes? You’re likely to be more stylish

Not only is second-hand shopping good for the planet and your wallet, <a href="https://authors.elsevier.com/a/1eme%7E3SU%7EVoF7C" target="_blank" rel="noopener">our new research</a> finds the more style-conscious you are, the more likely you are to shop for second-hand clothes and accessories. In the 2020-21 financial year, <a href="https://reluv.com.au/sustainability-report-fashion-resale-in-australia/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">72% of Australians</a> purchased at least one item of second-hand clothes – but we wanted to know more about people who were shopping second hand. It is <a href="https://debtbusters.com.au/buying-second-hand/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">often assumed</a> those who shop for second-hand clothes do so to save money or reduce their impact on the environment. In our study, we found the higher people rate on style-consciousness, the more likely they are to shop second hand. In fact, style-consciousness was a bigger predictor of second-hand shopping than being frugal or ecologically-conscious. Style-conscious shoppers are very different from fashion-conscious shoppers. Fashion is all about the “new”: fashion is a novelty and constantly evolving. Style, on the other hand, is about expressing long-term individual identity. The problem with fashion Fashion shoppers are used to a continuous supply of new trends and “fast fashion” products. Fast fashion works quickly to replicate an ever moving stream of fashion trends, generating large volumes of low-quality apparel. The impact of fast fashion on the environment is significant and well-documented. Globally, the fast fashion industry creates <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/csr.2166" target="_blank" rel="noopener">92 million tonnes of waste</a> per year and uses 79 trillion litres of water. Less than 15% of clothes are recycled or reused. Poorly made and low-quality fast fashion items are a significant problem for charity stores, who are <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-01-14/charities-not-accepting-donations-as-bins-overflow/10713158" target="_blank" rel="noopener">forced to send</a> fast fashion items they can’t sell to landfill. But, going against this fast fashion trend, <a href="https://www.thredup.com/resale/#resale-industry" target="_blank" rel="noopener">growing numbers</a> of people are shopping for second-hand clothing and accessories. A growing market It’s difficult to determine the size of the second-hand market because many sales take place in informal settings such as pre-loved markets and online platforms like Facebook Marketplace. However, sales data from online platforms shows an explosion in growth. James Reinhart, CEO of online second-hand fashion retailer Thredup, has predicted the global second-hand market <a href="https://www.thredup.com/resale/#size-and-impact" target="_blank" rel="noopener">will double</a> in the next five years to US$77 billion (A$102 billion). He also predicts the second-hand market will be double the size of fast fashion <a href="https://www.thredup.com/resale/#transforming-closets" target="_blank" rel="noopener">by 2030</a>. <a href="https://www.thechainsaw.com/online-secondhand-platforms-booming-australia-2020-11" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Younger shoppers</a> are driving growth in popularity of second-hand shopping, especially via online platforms. Our research suggests much of this growth is due to shoppers considering themselves to be style-conscious. <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CA2WAdSgca6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CA2WAdSgca6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Alex van Os (@op_shop_to_runway)</a> </div> </blockquote> What makes a second-hand shopper? We surveyed 515 Australian female-identifying consumers looking at their “orientation” (the preference to behave in a certain way) when it comes to shopping. Each participant was measured for their orientation towards frugality, how ecologically conscious they are, their level of materialism, how prone they are towards nostalgia, their fashion-consciousness and their style-consciousness. While we found there are frugal and ecologically-conscious second-hand shoppers, our research revealed overwhelmingly that style-consciousness is the greatest predictor of second-hand fashion shopping. People who scored highly on the style-consciousness scale were more likely to shop for second-hand clothes than any of the other orientations. A style-conscious person expresses themselves through their clothes. These shoppers want clothes that complement their personal style and values. They look for authentic and original pieces and avoid mainstream trends and fast fashion. <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca0fWXCpN8y/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca0fWXCpN8y/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Ashley (@ash_slay__)</a> </div> </blockquote> Style-conscious shoppers buy high-quality, durable clothing and accessories. While fashion-conscious shoppers are constantly buying new clothes to keep up with current trends, style-conscious shoppers buy clothes that are timeless, well-crafted and allow them to express their individual identity over the long-term. Traditional thrift shops run by charities are responding to consumer demand, <a href="https://www.timeout.com/los-angeles/shopping/rare-by-goodwill" target="_blank" rel="noopener">reinventing their stores</a> with carefully selected, high-quality clothes, improved merchandising and store design, online sales and improved <a href="https://www.cmo.com.au/article/688451/how-salvos-embraced-ecommerce/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">digital and social media marketing</a>. The number of independently owned, highly-curated “pre-loved” stores and online sales platforms is also <a href="https://reluv.com.au/sustainability-report-fashion-resale-in-australia/?utm_source=home&utm_medium=cnva_link&utm_campaign=fashion_report_21" target="_blank" rel="noopener">increasing</a>. <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02650487.2021.2000125" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Social media influencers</a> have driven much of this growth. Their accounts embrace second-hand fashion, the <a href="https://planetark.org/about/objectives/sustainable-resource-use" target="_blank" rel="noopener">circular economy</a> (which highlights reuse, repair, repurpose and recycle) and promote the notion of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/secondhandfirst/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">#secondhandfirst</a>. <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B064OkRHEy2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B064OkRHEy2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Ellen (@theonlywayisop)</a> </div> </blockquote> Helping the planet…with style We hope with increasing numbers of second-hand stores, markets and online platforms selling a range of quality, pre-loved clothes at different price points for different budgets – coupled with the <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/business/consumer-affairs/second-hand-clothing-to-overtake-fast-fashion-20191004-p52xt4.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">growing acceptance</a> of second-hand shopping – shoppers will consider buying second-hand more often. For those who already embrace “not needing new”, not only are you helping the planet – our research shows you are also likely to be doing it with style.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/180028/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/louise-grimmer-212082" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Louise Grimmer</a>, Associate Head Research Performance and Senior Lecturer in Retail Marketing, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-tasmania-888" target="_blank" rel="noopener">University of Tasmania</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/martin-grimmer-330523" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Martin Grimmer</a>, Associate Provost and Professor of Marketing, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-tasmania-888" target="_blank" rel="noopener">University of Tasmania</a> This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/do-you-shop-for-second-hand-clothes-youre-likely-to-be-more-stylish-180028" target="_blank" rel="noopener">original article</a>. Image: Getty Images

Beauty & Style

Sydney to Newcastle fast rail makes sense. Making trains locally does not

Federal Opposition Leader Anthony Albanese <a href="https://anthonyalbanese.com.au/our-policies/sydney-to-hunter-fast-rail">this week announced</a> a commitment to funding high-speed rail between Sydney and Newcastle. At speeds of more than 250km/h, this would cut the 150-minute journey from Sydney to Newcastle to just 45 minutes. Commuting between the two cities would be a lot more feasible. <a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/439624/original/file-20220106-21-19utua0.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/439624/original/file-20220106-21-19utua0.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip" alt="" /></a> Proposed route for high-speed Melbourne to Brisbane rail. <a href="https://www.infrastructureaustralia.gov.au/map/corridor-preservation-east-coast-high-speed-rail" class="source">Infrastructure Australia</a> The Sydney-Newcastle link would be a first step in a grand plan to link the Melbourne-Sydney-Brisbane corridor by high-speed rail. Albanese also wants the trains to be built at home, <a href="https://anthonyalbanese.com.au/our-policies/sydney-to-hunter-fast-rail">saying</a> “we will look build as much of our fast and high-speed rail future in Australia as is possible”. Of course, this idea has been around for a long time. Nobody has ever got the numbers to stack up before. Federal infrastructure minister Paul Fletcher made the obvious but reasonable point that such a rail link would be very expensive. “It is $200 to $300 billion on any credible estimate,” he <a href="https://newcastleweekly.com.au/coalition-pulls-brakes-on-labors-fast-rail-plans/">said in response</a> to Labor’s announcement. “It has to be paid for, and that means higher taxes”. Or does it? <h2>Social cost-benefit analysis</h2> Traditional cost-benefit analysis is how governments tend to make decisions about big infrastructure projects like this. Figure out the costs (such as $300 billion) and then figure out the benefits. Adjust for timing differences and when money is spent and received, and then compare. This generates an “internal rate of return” (IRR) on the money invested. It’s what private companies do all the time. One then compares that IRR to some reference or “hurdle” rate. For a private company that might be 12% or so. For governments it is typically lower. An obvious question this raises is: what are the benefits? <a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/439623/original/file-20220106-27-vyofyv.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=1000&fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/439623/original/file-20220106-27-vyofyv.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=754&fit=clip" alt="" /></a> An artist’s impression by Phil Belbin of the proposed VFT (Very Fast Train) in the 1980s. Comeng If all one is willing to count are things such as ticket fares, the numbers will almost never stack up. But that’s far too narrow a way to think about the financial benefits. A Sydney-Newcastle high-speed rail link would cut down on travel times, help ease congestion in Sydney, ease housing affordability pressures in Sydney, improve property values along the corridor and in Newcastle, provide better access to education and jobs, and more. The point is one has to think about the social value from government investments, not just the narrow commercial value. Alex Rosenberg, Rosalind Dixon and I provided a framework for this kind of “social return accounting” in a <a href="http://research.economics.unsw.edu.au/richardholden/assets/social-return-accounting.pdf">report</a> published in 2018. <h2>Newcastle might make sense, Brisbane might not</h2> I haven’t done the social cost-benefit analysis for this rail link, but the social return being greater than the cost is quite plausible. The other thing to remember is that the return a government should require has fallen materially in recent years. The Australian government can borrow for 10 years at just 1.78%, as opposed to <a href="http://www.worldgovernmentbonds.com/bond-historical-data/australia/10-years/">well over 5%</a> before the financial crisis of 2008. I’m less sure about the Brisbane to Melbourne idea. The cost would be dramatically higher for obvious reasons, as well as the fact that the topography en route to Brisbane is especially challenging. Nobody is going to commute from Sydney to Brisbane by rail, and the air routes between the three capitals are well serviced. <h2>Transport policy is not industry policy</h2> The decision about building a Sydney-Newcastle rail link is, and should be kept, completely separate from where the trains are made. Transport policy shouldn’t be hijacked for industry policy. To be fair, Newcastle has a long and proud history of <a href="https://www.ugllimited.com/en/our-sectors/transport">manufacturing rolling stock</a>, at what was the Goninan factory at Broadmeadow – much of it for export. But ask yourself how sustainable that industry looks in Australia, absent massive government support. Can it stand on its own? It’s also true there have been some recent high-profile procurement disasters buying overseas trains. Sydney’s light-rail project has run massively late and over budget, with Spanish company Acciona getting an extra A$600 million due to the project being more difficult than expected. Then <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/national/nsw/transport-minister-expects-spanish-manufacturer-to-pay-for-cracked-trams-20211110-p597tq.html">cracks were found</a> in all 12 trams for the city’s inner-west line, putting them out of service for 18 months. These are terrible bungles due to the government agreeing to poorly written contracts with sophisticated counterparties. When contracts don’t specify contingencies there is the possibility of what economists call the “<a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1530-9134.2009.00236.x">hold-up problem</a>”. But these problems could have occurred with a local maker too. <h2>The Tinbergen Rule</h2> An enduring lesson from economics is the Tinbergen Rule – named after <a href="https://www.nobelprize.org/prizes/economic-sciences/1969/tinbergen/facts/">Jan Tinbergen</a>, winner of the first Nobel prize for economics. This rule says for each policy challenge one requires an independent policy instrument. This can be <a href="https://theconversation.com/vital-signs-evergrande-may-survive-but-for-its-executives-expect-a-fate-worse-than-debt-168930">widely applied</a>. But here the lesson is particularly clear. Addressing housing affordability is a good idea, and a Sydney-Newcastle link could help with that. But if Labor want a jobs policy it should develop one. The more TAFE places Labor has already announced is a reasonable start. Reviving 1970s-style industry policy – something that has almost never worked – is not a good move. Governments are lousy at picking winners. The public invariably ends up paying more for less, and the jobs are typically transient. But aside from this conflation of policy goals, Albanese deserves credit for being bold about the future of high-speed rail in Australia. <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/richard-holden-118107">Richard Holden</a>, Professor of Economics, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/unsw-1414">UNSW</a> This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/vital-signs-sydney-to-newcastle-fast-rail-makes-sense-making-trains-locally-does-not-174341">original article</a>. Image: Shutterstock

Domestic Travel

How to solve a jigsaw puzzle fast

Puzzle-solving tips from the experts Sitting down to begin work on a jigsaw puzzle is an exciting but daunting experience. Alfonso Alvarez-Ossorio, the president of the World Jigsaw Puzzle Federation, and Tammy McLeod, a competitive puzzle solver, share their tips on solving puzzles quickly, expert strategies for completing jigsaw puzzles of all sizes, the best methods to get started with the hobby of puzzling, and more details about how jigsaw champions work on their puzzles. The challenges of solving a puzzle fast “The difficulty of a jigsaw puzzle – and the time it will take to assemble it – is directly proportional to the number of pieces,” says Alvarez-Ossorio. In addition, there are two factors that account for the difficulty of a jigsaw puzzle, says Alvarez-Ossorio. First, he says is the “morphology of the pieces, which depends on the manufacturer and the die used (the more you distinguish some pieces from others, the easier),” and second is “the contrast of the puzzle image (the greater the contrast, the more diversity of colours and strokes more defined, the easier and faster the assembly).” The right surface Where you do jigsaw puzzles is almost as important as how you do one. “In official competitions, vinyl-plastic is used so that the pieces move quickly across the surface,” says Alvarez-Ossorio. The mats are usually used white, “to reflect the light of space – lighting is a very important factor.” When doing a puzzle at home, you’ll want a dedicated space, such as a folding card table, so you can spread out your pieces and so they won’t get lost. If you don’t have room, puzzle mats are helpful because you can easily roll a puzzle-in-progress up for storage when you need to reclaim your dining room or coffee table. Different strategies for different puzzles In her personal puzzle-solving experience, “a 500 piece jigsaw is small enough to be spread out completely on a table so that all the pieces can be viewed at the same time,” McLeod shares. “This makes it easy to simply pick out pieces to be assembled, without sorting; usually, each piece contains enough details to uniquely identify it.” Larger puzzles are a different story, however. With a puzzle of 2000 pieces or more, “each piece contains a much smaller portion of the full image, so it’s faster to sort into general groups,” she says. Edges first? A popular strategy is to put the edges of the puzzle together first because, with one straight edge, the pieces are easier to identify and put together. “There isn’t a single strategy that will work for 100 per cent of puzzles, but in the majority of cases, it is easiest to start with the edge,” McLeod says. “This does not apply for non-rectangular puzzles and some puzzles where the edge pieces are cut interchangeably, but generally, to solve a puzzle fast, sorting is key.” Cutting corners Because there are only four of them, McLeod doesn’t spend time looking for corner pieces. “You’d have to spend a lot of time sifting through all the pieces just to find them,” she says. “Instead, start by pulling out the edges, then when you have most of them, start assembling them.” She goes to say that you shouldn’t be of the mind that you need to find every single edge piece, as that too will waste time. “The few edge pieces that you miss will naturally emerge after other pieces get placed.” Smart sorting “The larger the puzzle, the more time you should devote to sorting the pieces,” says Alvarez-Ossorio. “Divide the jigsaw puzzle by zones, normally identified by colours, though sometimes it can also be by textures.” For example in a puzzle about nature, “separate an area of trees and another from grass – both can be the same colour but the textures are completely different.” Perfect placement Once you have your pieces sorted, it’s time to start placing them. If your puzzle is of a drawing, painting, or collage that contains lots of details or has words, it makes it easier to place pieces, notes McLeod. On the other hand, “Photographs and landscapes usually have large patches of similar textures which can be a stumbling block for beginners,” she says. Take a break Don’t expect to complete your puzzle in an afternoon. “I have worked on puzzles with over 4000 pieces that take 60+ hours to complete, so I definitely cannot finish them in a single sitting!” McLeod shares. And yes, fresh eyes can help, especially if you’re tired. You may also want to invest in a lighted magnifying glass. Puzzling patience “Working on puzzles helps you develop your hand-eye coordination, your visual acuity, colour and shape recognition, and your patience,” McLeod says It’s also a very meditative activity, she says, “Your mind can wander while your hands and eyes are involved with assembling plus you get a hit of dopamine every time you fit a piece, so it becomes a long session of satisfying feelings.” Written by Charlotte Hilton Anderson. This article first appeared in <a href="https://www.readersdigest.co.nz/culture/how-to-solve-a-jigsaw-puzzle-fast">Reader’s Digest</a>. Find more of what you love from the world’s best-loved magazine, <a href="https://readersdigest.innovations.co.nz/c/readersdigestemailsubscribe?utm_source=over60&utm_medium=articles&utm_campaign=RDSUB&keycode=WRA93V">here’s our best subscription offer</a>.

Mind

Princess Charlotte is growing up so fast!

The royal family has released a new portrait of Princess Charlotte ahead of her sixth birthday. Prince William and Kate Middleton’s daughter will be celebrating on Sunday but have released a picture taken by the Duchess to honour the little royal early. The photograph was snapped at Norfolk over the weekend and shows a smiley Charlotte grinning in the garden while she wears a blue floral dress. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7841021/princess-charlotte.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/5316b744cc734e44b1d6fd73bf2c722e" /> Her little brother, Prince Louis, celebrated his third birthday on April 23. Only a few weeks ahead of his big sister, the portrait showed just how fast the youngest Cambridge boy is growing up. Wearing a jumper, shirt, shorts and with his rucksack on his back, the photograph was taken by his mother on the grounds of Kensington Palace. <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> Three tomorrow! 🚲 Taken earlier this week by The Duchess before he left for his first day of nursery, The Duke and Duchess are pleased to share a new image of Prince Louis. 🎈 <a href="https://t.co/AGgfLI39tW">pic.twitter.com/AGgfLI39tW</a> — The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (@KensingtonRoyal) <a href="https://twitter.com/KensingtonRoyal/status/1385345248512053248?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">April 22, 2021</a></blockquote> Louis is following in the footsteps of big sister Princess Charlotte, who also attended the same nursery.

Family & Pets

Woman gets proposed to while fast asleep

A woman was woken up to the surprise of her life after her partner slipped an engagement ring on her finger. Jamila Williams slept soundly, and while doing so, Michael Mayorga held a ring box up to the camera and posed for a photo next to her. Taking to Facebook, Mayorga announced that he had slipped a ring on his assumed-to-be fiance at 5 am while she slept. "It's 5:00AM. For weeks now I have been planning on how to pop the question.... you know all my moves and you are one very hard woman to surprise," he wrote in the Facebook post. "But the joke's on you because now you're going to wake up with three surprises!" <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839253/sleeping-proposal-1.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/2808660ad16a43729abbe0e8c187aa2b" /> Mayorga said she would wake up to the surprise of a "phone full of congratulations notifications and texts," the engagement ring, and most hilarious of all, a picture of her sleeping that she wouldn't want "all over the internet." "Surprise!!" he exclaimed in the post. He promised to let everyone know his partner’s "verdict when she wakes up." The proposal story has gained more than 330,000 likes on Facebook. "The fact I've checked her page like 4 times to see if she woke up yet and I never met this lady a day in my life lol. Let us know how you feel Jamilah!" wrote one user. <div class="fb-post" data-href="https://www.facebook.com/MikeDaSituation/posts/10221004679060165" data-show-text="true" data-width=""> <blockquote class="fb-xfbml-parse-ignore"> Jamilah Williams You're an answered prayer 🙏 💝 Posted by <a href="#">Michael Mayorga</a> on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MikeDaSituation/posts/10221004679060165">Monday, October 12, 2020</a></blockquote> </div> "What a surprise to wake up to LOL this is so beautiful congrats you guys...." another commented. Finally, Williams woke up and delivered a resounding "yes". "I LOVE YOU SO MUCH! When a man finds a good thing you won't have to beg for ANYTHING!" Williams wrote in a post on her own personal Facebook account. "It's his loyalty, commitment, Respect, and genuine LOVE for ME! I am overwhelmed with so much love and joy!" <div class="fb-post" data-href="https://www.facebook.com/MikeDaSituation/posts/10221392281669988" data-show-text="true" data-width=""> <blockquote class="fb-xfbml-parse-ignore"> It's 5:00AM 😩 for weeks now I been planning on how to pop the question.... you know all my moves and you are one very... Posted by <a href="#">Michael Mayorga</a> on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MikeDaSituation/posts/10221392281669988">Wednesday, December 9, 2020</a></blockquote> </div> "Thank you to everyone for your love and support. We are overwhelmed and words can't express how truly blessed we are. This is only the beginning to the lifetime of blessings straight from God."

Relationships

Fast fashion: how retailers can use pandemic to change our terrible relationship with clothes

Even before the pandemic, the UK fashion retail industry <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-43240996">was struggling</a>. John Lewis, M&S and Debenhams had all announced losses, job cuts and store closures, while House of Fraser was taken over. Since lockdown, Oasis and Warehouse <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-52285231">have entered administration</a>, and John Lewis <a href="https://www.theweek.co.uk/106801/will-john-lewis-close-some-stores-permanently">has said</a> that not all its stores will reopen. <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-43240996">One of the challenges</a> for these retailers is cut throat price competition from international rivals like Primark and H&M, and online retailers like Pretty Little Thing and Misguided. <a href="https://researchonline.gcu.ac.uk/en/publications/doing-it-for-the-kids-the-role-of-sustainability-in-family-consum">Low-price garments</a> became all the more attractive to consumers after their spending power was weakened by the financial crisis of 2007-09. This brought about the era of fast fashion – low quality clothes needing replaced more quickly, and consumers who see them as disposable. The price of these garments doesn’t reflect their true cost. It ignores both the workers who make them and the <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/apr/07/fast-fashion-speeding-toward-environmental-disaster-report-warns">carbon footprint</a> from more production, more transportation and more landfill. Rays of hope At the turn of the year, there <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jan/01/fashion-climate-sustainability-greta-thunberg-i-d-gucci-zero-emissions-carbon-neutral">was a feeling</a> that sustainability might be moving back up the agenda. A surge of consumer protests, led by Extinction Rebellion and Greta Thunberg, seemed to herald a public desire for change. To <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-is-the-second-dirtiest-industry-in-the-world-next-to-big--1882083445.html">raise awareness</a> that fashion is the second-worst polluter after oil, Extinction Rebellion <a href="https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/extinction-rebellion-london-fashion-week-climate-change-protests">held a funeral</a> during London Fashion Week 2019. It seemed possible that consumers might be galvanised to shop more sustainably – especially given the extreme weather conditions of 2019, and fears that there are <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/climate-change-un-report-greenhouse-gases-carbon-dioxide-methane-sea-level-rise-global-warming-a8646426.html">just ten years left</a> to halt the irreversible consequences of climate change. Then came the pandemic. With many high street shops forced to suspend trading, the whole industry has been in flux. Brands like Primark and Matalan have <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/mar/27/put-earth-first-can-a-greener-fairer-fashion-industry-emerge-from-crisis">cancelled or suspended</a> orders in places like Bangladesh, causing some factories <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2020/apr/02/fashion-brands-cancellations-of-24bn-orders-catastrophic-for-bangladesh">to close</a>. There may have been <a href="https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200422-how-has-coronavirus-helped-the-environment">big environmental benefits</a> from the world at a standstill, but it will be little consolation to garment workers who are furloughed or jobless. Yet amidst <a href="https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/healthcare-systems-and-services/our-insights/beyond-coronavirus-the-path-to-the-next-normal">all this upheaval</a>, there is <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/mar/27/put-earth-first-can-a-greener-fairer-fashion-industry-emerge-from-crisis">an opportunity</a> for the fashion industry – both to help these workers and more broadly to put sustainability at the heart of their business. The decisions by fashion retailers like <a href="https://www.theindustry.fashion/burberry-retools-factory-to-make-non-surgical-gowns-and-masks-and-funds-vaccine-research/">Burberry</a> and <a href="https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/fashion-industry-masks-protective-equipment-covid-19/index.html">Prada</a> to divert into making medical gowns and masks for healthcare workers are a good starting point. If companies can make positive changes to help manage coronavirus, they can also address fast fashion. If, for example, companies paid garment workers the <a href="https://labourbehindthelabel.org/our-work/faqs/#1441884831979-53ad6cf0-86251441886042060">living wage</a> for their part of the world, they could use it in their marketing to garner a competitive advantage. Paying a living wage <a href="https://thefableists.wordpress.com/2014/04/03/tailored-wages-new-report-investigates-clothing-brands-work-on-living-wages/">doesn’t significantly increase</a> the cost of garments. Take the example of a T-shirt with a retail price of £29, for which the worker receives 0.6% or 18p. If that was doubled to 36p, it would not increase the overall price by very much. Paying a living wage <a href="https://labourbehindthelabel.org/our-work/faqs/#1441884831979-53ad6cf0-86251441886042060">should enable workers</a> in developing countries to afford nutritious food, clean water, shelter, clothes, education, healthcare and transport, while leaving some left over. One fashion entrepreneur that has developed a different way of helping garment workers during the pandemic is Edinburgh-based Cally Russell. He set up the <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/may/30/lost-stock-its-like-buying-your-future-self-a-present">Lost Stock initiative</a>, which sells the garments from orders cancelled by UK fashion retailers by purchasing garments directly from manufacturers in Bangladesh. <a href="https://loststock.com/pages/costs">A Lost Stock box</a> of clothes costs £39. Almost a third is donated to the Sajida Foundation, which is giving food and hygiene parcels to Bangladeshis struggling during the pandemic. For maximum transparency, Lost Stock also provides a price breakdown that outlines the costs to the manufacturer, the charity and the initiative itself. Cool to care Another tactic that fashion marketers could use is to encourage in consumers a similar cool-to-care ethos to that brought out by the pandemic – as seen with the UK’s weekly clapping for key workers, for example. Business in numerous sectors are already focusing their marketing message on supporting NHS workers to capitalise on this spirit of collective solidarity. Fashion marketers could channel people’s desire for self-gratification towards buying clothes that contribute to the social good. My <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/QMR-09-2019-0113/full/html">research illustrates</a> the discomfort consumers experience when aware of allegations of both garment-worker and environmental exploitation, so it should be possible for marketers to benefit from doing the reverse. <a href="https://www.toms.com/">TOMS (Tomorrow’s Shoes)</a> is an example of a fashion business with giving at the core of its strategy: for every pair of shoes sold, a pair is donated to a child in need. Since 2006, 100 million pairs of shoes have been donated, and TOMS <a href="https://www.toms.com/about-toms">has since branched</a> into areas like eyewear.Another example is <a href="https://snagtights.com/pages/our-philosophy#:%7E:text=Sustainable,first%20fully%20bio%2Ddegradable%20tights.">Snag Tights</a>, which is supporting NHS frontline workers with a free pair of tights for every order placed. The company markets its tights as vegan friendly and free of plastic packaging, and is trying to develop the world’s first fully bio-degradable tights. Swaps and seconds One other trend that should definitely be encouraged is initiatives that expand the lifecycle of fashion and textiles. <a href="https://www.stylus.com/hmzhcg">London Fashion Week hosted</a> a fashion swap shop in February for the first time. Similarly, the flagship Selfridges store on London’s Oxford Street <a href="https://www.retail-week.com/fashion/selfridges-opens-second-hand-clothing-boutique/7033360.article?authent=1">began selling</a> second-hand luxury fashion and high-end brands with resale site Vestiaire Collective in 2019. There has also <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/dec/22/fashion-libraries-ethical-clothing-borrowing">been a rise</a> in fashion libraries that rent fashion garments and accessories, allowing consumers affordable access to higher quality and luxury items. Fashion retailers could move in this direction, while also supporting customers by hosting workshops for upcycling garments into something new. In sum, the fashion industry should take advantage of the pandemic pause and the current mood to show constructive leadership to the global economy. It should use its power to help change our relationship with clothing into something more equal and sustainable for the long term. Written by Elaine Ritch. Republished with permission of <a href="https://theconversation.com/fast-fashion-how-retailers-can-use-pandemic-to-change-our-terrible-relationship-with-clothes-140210">The Conversation.</a>

Beauty & Style

Archie turns one! Royal baby has grown up SO fast

Archie Harrison Mountbatten-Windsor, the son of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, has celebrated his first birthday on May 6. It is hard to believe the love-struck Duke and Duchess of Sussex became parents to their first child together a year ago, but to celebrate their beautiful family we are looking back at some of little Archie’s most memorable moments. Archie was born on May 6, 2019 and in just one year the toddler has already achieved incredible milestones. To celebrate his birthday, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex released a video of the growing tot sitting on his mother's lap as she reads him a children's book. The clip was posted on behalf of Save The Children UK and seeks to help raise urgent funds for the organisation's coronavirus appeal. <blockquote style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/tv/B_2A6IwBeM-/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" rel="noopener" href="https://www.instagram.com/tv/B_2A6IwBeM-/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank">A post shared by Save The Children UK (@savechildrenuk)</a> on May 6, 2020 at 4:01am PDT </div> </blockquote> From the most intimate moments to his highly publicised royal debuts, here are some of his most adorable moments.

Art

6 countries with 6 curves: How nations that moved fast against COVID-19 avoided disaster

To understand the spread of COVID-19, the pandemic is more usefully viewed as a series of distinct local epidemics. The way the virus has spread in different countries, and even in particular states or regions within them, has been quite varied. A New Zealand <a href="https://www.tepunahamatatini.ac.nz/2020/04/22/effect-of-alert-level-4-measures-on-covid-19-transmission/">study</a> has mapped the coronavirus epidemic curve for 25 countries and modelled how the spread of the virus has changed in response to the various lockdown measures. The research, which is yet to be peer-reviewed, classifies each country’s public health response using New Zealand’s <a href="https://covid19.govt.nz/alert-system/covid-19-alert-system/">four-level alert system</a>. Levels 1 and 2 represent relatively relaxed controls, whereas levels 3 and 4 are stricter. By mapping the change in the effective reproduction number (Reff, an indicator of the actual spread of the virus in the community) against response measures, the research shows countries that implemented level 3 and 4 restrictions sooner had greater success in pushing Reff to below 1. An Reff of less than 1 means each infected person spreads the virus to less than one other person, on average. By keeping Reff below 1, the number of new infections will fall and the virus will ultimately disappear from the community. Italy Italy was relatively slow to respond to the epidemic, and experienced a high Reff for many weeks. This led to an explosion of cases which overwhelmed the health system, particularly in the country’s north. This was followed by some of the strictest public health control measures in Europe, which has finally seen the Reff fall to below 1. Unfortunately, the time lag has cost many lives. Italy’s death toll of over 27,000 serves as a warning of what can happen if the virus is allowed to spread unchecked, even if strict measures are brought in later. United Kingdom The UK’s initial response to COVID-19 was characterised by a series of missteps. The government prevaricated while it considered pursuing a controversial “herd immunity” strategy, before finally ordering an Italy-style lockdown to regain control over the virus’s transmission. As in Italy, the result was an initial surge in case numbers, a belatedly successful effort to bring Reff below 1, and a huge death toll of over 20,000 to date. New York, USA New York City, with its field hospital in Central Park resembling a scene from a disaster movie, is another testament to the power of uncontrolled virus spread to overwhelm the health system. Its Reff peaked at a staggeringly high value of 8, before the city slammed on the brakes and went into complete lockdown. It took a protracted battle to finally bring the Reff below 1. Perhaps more than any other city, New York will feel the economic shock of this epidemic for many years to come. Sweden Sweden has taken a markedly relaxed approach to its public health response. Barring a few minor restrictions, the country remains more or less open as usual, and the focus has been on individuals to take personal responsibility for controlling the virus through social distancing. This is understandably contentious, and the number of cases and deaths in Sweden are far higher than its neighbouring countries. But Reff indicates that the curve is flattening. Singapore Singapore is a lesson on why you can’t ever relax when it comes to coronavirus. It was hailed as an early success story in bringing the virus to heel, through extensive testing, effective contact tracing and strict quarantining, with no need for a full lockdown. But the virus has bounced back. Infection clusters originating among migrant workers has prompted tighter restrictions. The Reff currently sits at around 2, and Singapore still has a lot of work to do to bring it down. Individually, these graphs each tell their own story. Together, they have one clear message: places that moved quickly to implement strict interventions brought the coronavirus under control much more effectively, with less death and disease. And our final example, Singapore, adds an important coda: the situation can change rapidly, and there is no room for complacency. Written by Hassan Vally. Republished with permission of <a href="https://theconversation.com/6-countries-6-curves-how-nations-that-moved-fast-against-covid-19-avoided-disaster-137333">The Conversation.</a>

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Does intermittent fasting have benefits for our brain?

Does it matter what time of day I eat? And can intermittent fasting improve my health? Here’s what the science says

No, you can’t reverse ageing by injecting ‘young blood’ and fasting. But that doesn’t stop people trying

Is it true the faster you lose weight the quicker it comes back? Here’s what we know about slow and fast weight loss

"I can only do so much": we asked fast-fashion shoppers how ethical concerns shape their choices

We know sweatshop clothing is bad – and buy it anyway. Here’s how your brain makes excuses

3 major toxins have been found in popular clothing brands – here’s what to know

Mapping the labour and slavery risks in fashion supply chains

As countries ranging from Indonesia to Mexico aim to attract digital nomads, locals say ‘not so fast’

Cathy Freeman's daughter following in her FAST footsteps

Fast fashion: why your online returns may end up in landfill – and what can be done about it

Time to remove vaccine mandates? Not so fast – it could have unintended consequences

Do you shop for second-hand clothes? You’re likely to be more stylish

Sydney to Newcastle fast rail makes sense. Making trains locally does not

How to solve a jigsaw puzzle fast

Princess Charlotte is growing up so fast!

Woman gets proposed to while fast asleep

Fast fashion: how retailers can use pandemic to change our terrible relationship with clothes

Archie turns one! Royal baby has grown up SO fast

6 countries with 6 curves: How nations that moved fast against COVID-19 avoided disaster

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Does intermittent fasting have benefits for our brain?

Does it matter what time of day I eat? And can intermittent fasting improve my health? Here’s what the science says

No, you can’t reverse ageing by injecting ‘young blood’ and fasting. But that doesn’t stop people trying

Is it true the faster you lose weight the quicker it comes back? Here’s what we know about slow and fast weight loss

"I can only do so much": we asked fast-fashion shoppers how ethical concerns shape their choices

We know sweatshop clothing is bad – and buy it anyway. Here’s how your brain makes excuses

3 major toxins have been found in popular clothing brands – here’s what to know

Mapping the labour and slavery risks in fashion supply chains

As countries ranging from Indonesia to Mexico aim to attract digital nomads, locals say ‘not so fast’

Cathy Freeman's daughter following in her FAST footsteps

Fast fashion: why your online returns may end up in landfill – and what can be done about it

Time to remove vaccine mandates? Not so fast – it could have unintended consequences

Do you shop for second-hand clothes? You’re likely to be more stylish

Sydney to Newcastle fast rail makes sense. Making trains locally does not

How to solve a jigsaw puzzle fast

Princess Charlotte is growing up so fast!

Woman gets proposed to while fast asleep

Fast fashion: how retailers can use pandemic to change our terrible relationship with clothes

Archie turns one! Royal baby has grown up SO fast

6 countries with 6 curves: How nations that moved fast against COVID-19 avoided disaster

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