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Shift work with Justine Tyerman

Justine Tyerman can’t wait to return to her unpaid job with two ‘bosses’ who scream at her . . . Mid-60s is rather late in life for a couple to start doing shift work but we took to it like proverbial ducks to a millpond. The job description was extremely off-putting but we accepted the challenge with great gusto and enthusiasm. It involved up to 10-hour shifts cleaning up vomit and poo, being splattered with food, saturated with water, frequently screeched at and occasionally scratched. There were also regular wrestling matches involving the application and removal of sanitary items and clothing. Other tasks included daily food preparation for finicky eaters, house cleaning, endless loads of washing, ironing and folding, shopping, sewing, pushing heavy loads up and downhill, singing, dancing, playing and counselling and companionship services. The two youngest ‘bosses’ were the most demanding – regardless of the time of day or night, they wanted their needs met... immediately. If not, they would scream at the top of their lungs until their wishes were granted. One would expect such difficult work to be well-rewarded financially but we were not paid a cent. However, we were overjoyed to provide our services, free of charge, and keen to be engaged again by the same ‘employers’... as soon as possible. As you will have no doubt guessed, the ‘work’ involved helping to care for our grandchildren, Isabel, a newborn, and Francesca aged one year. <img style="width: 374.8782862706914px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840354/2-justine-and-newborn-granddaughter-isabel.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/778b8cf6c572439b8eddb24318512e1e" /> Justine and newborn granddaughter Isabel. The pandemic has kept us apart from our Sydney-based daughters, sons-in-law and their babies for the past year, so except for a visit at the birth of Francesca before the outbreak of Covid-19, we have not had the opportunity to practise our grandparenting skills. We weren’t even sure if Francesca would accept us, or if we were up to the task of doing 10-hour shifts with a toddler when our elder daughter returned to work after a year’s maternity leave. Nor did we have any idea how we’d cope with night shifts if our younger daughter and husband needed help with an unsettled newborn in the small hours of the morning. However, all our fears were completely groundless. Isabel slept well at night and boisterous Francesca loved us from the moment we started playing noisy hide and seek games, doing animal impersonations and singing Wiggles’ songs. She was an exceedingly cheerful and sunny-natured child until it came time to change her nappies or clothes. Then she turned into a feisty wrestler who had perfected the art of the corkscrew. It was a two-man job, one occupying her windmill hands, the other executing a lightning-fast nappy change and getting her into easy-on/off clothes. Gone were any naive ideas of dressing her in the pretty smocked outfits with many buttons I’d made for her mother. Mealtimes were quite a mission. She was a determined self-feeder which resulted in a monumental mess on the floor, herself and any well-meaning grandparent who attempted to streamline the process with a spoon. The trough-like silicone bibs from my young friend, Gisborne-born Emily Spear’s <a href="https://www.petiteeats.co.nz/collections/dinnerware">Petite Eats</a> range were a godsend, catching at least 50 percent of the food that was dropped. We were able to help with Francesca’s gradual transition to daycare, taking her for increasing time periods over a period of weeks. Being a sociable, adventurous wee soul, she adapted to the stimulating environment with great glee. In the afternoons when we collected her, she would spy us at the door and her little face would light up like sunshine. She’d wave vigorously and come toddling towards us. Talk about heart-melting! She was often tired and played-out by then so we took her for long shady walks in the pushchair until it was time for dinner, bath, stories and bed. By which time her mum or dad were home to take over. Our time with Isabel was radically different. She was such a tiny, wee bundle compared to her robust cousin. To begin with, she obligingly just slept and fed but after a couple of weeks, she ‘woke up’ and began to yell loudly and feed ravenously. She was not the easiest baby to settle, especially late in the day, but she seemed to like my over-the-shoulder burping technique and the rhythmical rocking of the pram. We went for long walks along the Bondi Beach promenade two or three times a day with Isabel in the pram or front pack. It was very therapeutic to get out of the house and into the fresh air when she was fractious. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840350/1-justine-and-chris-pushing-granddaughter-isabel-in-her-pram-at-bondi-beach.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/f88f2737d14745b4b897b10439bea6e6" /> Justine and Chris pushing granddaughter Isabel in her pram at Bondi Beach. I found myself gazing at her as she slept, marvelling afresh at the miracle of new life. In the time we were there, she changed from being a sleepy newborn still curled up in a foetal position, to being a lively, alert little human being, kicking vigorously, stretching her little limbs, exercising her healthy lungs and experimenting with a wide range of quizzical facial expressions. The new parents, in their sleep-deprived state, were so appreciative of our help with meals, housework and shopping, and our daughter also welcomed her mum’s companionship and advice during the long hours of breastfeeding. Being able to support them through this momentous, life-changing time brought us closer than ever. It was such a privilege to watch them discover the joys (and trials) of parenthood that no one can really prepare you for. None of this would have been possible without laying the groundwork in advance. Well before we left home, we organised two key components — independent accommodation and transport. Our daughters live in small apartments about 10 minutes’ drive away from each other but now they both have babies, there’s no spare room for guests. Ideally, we wanted to find our own place midway between the two. I knew the cost of a hotel or holiday rental for an extended period over summer in Sydney would be prohibitive so I resorted to my favourite accommodation site, <a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes">Love Home Swap.</a> I’ve been a member of this international home swap club for over 10 years and during that time, we’ve stayed in some wonderful private homes all around the world – Santorini, the Swiss Alps, Paris, London, Piha, Wanaka... You pay a membership fee (see footnote below) and then stay free, absolutely free. I searched for properties available in the Edgecliff-Bondi area, sent out a few messages and within hours, I had a positive response from a couple who live near Bondi Beach. We arranged a points swap which meant home-owners David and Imy were not locked in to a simultaneous swap with us with but could use the points or credits to stay in the home of any Love Home Swap member, anywhere, any time. Their scope is mainly limited to Australia at present due to COVID-19 but as soon as border restrictions ease, they will have the choice of thousands of homes in hundreds of countries all around the world. <img style="width: 374.8782862706914px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840351/3-chris-cooking-dinner-in-the-well-equipped-kitchen-at-david-and-imys-apartment.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/3ac892bf7df744ed965492930cb49f92" /> Chris cooking dinner in the well-equipped kitchen at David and Imy's apartment. David and Imy’s compact two-bedroom, two-bathroom, open-plan apartment worked incredibly well for us. Located on the top floor of a three-storey building in a great neighbourhood with excellent cafes, restaurants, seafood, bakery and fruit shops nearby, the apartment was absolutely immaculate, and equipped with high-quality appliances and everything we needed. Above all, it provided a quiet, tranquil haven for us to escape to at the end of a busy day with the little ones. We enjoyed many a relaxed glass of wine or beer on the balcony overlooking the rugged coastline on the famous Bondi to Coogee walkway, a great track for an early morning or evening run or walk. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840352/5-sunset-from-the-balcony-of-david-and-imys-love-home-swap-apartment-near-bondi-beach.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/46c9f67f3cf94ced9e52970fad53c717" /> Sunset from the balcony of David and Imy's Love Home Swap apartment near Bondi Beach. Having independent accommodation also allowed our daughters and sons-in-law to have their own space, privacy and time to be together as a family. We met David and Imy before they headed off on a road trip in New South Wales. They left an impressive 40-page guide to the apartment covering everything from security and access to neighbourhood shopping, dining and recreation - the most comprehensive compendium I’ve ever seen. They also left us some superb local wines to sample which was a lovely hospitable touch. Having a secure covered carpark under the apartment building was another huge plus as parking can be a major problem around Bondi... which brings me to my next key component: securing our own means of transport so we were not dependent on family members. We organised a <a href="https://www.jucy.com/au/en/cars/">JUCY Rentals</a> vehicle before we left home which turned out to be absolutely indispensable. JUCY provides an excellent pick-up/drop-off service at Sydney Airport which was very convenient. Our zippy Toyota Corolla hatchback did umpteen trips to the supermarket, delivered supplies and home-cooked meals to three households, and transported our elder granddaughter to and from daycare in the secure, back-facing car seat that JUCY fitted for us. The vehicle was big enough to accommodate the pushchair and other toddler paraphernalia for trips to the beach and playground but small enough to squeeze into tight parking spaces. Having our own wheels literally enabled us to be in two places as once – one with Isabel and the other with Francesca. We would often swap shifts in the middle of the day to make sure we saw both grandchildren every day. <img style="width: 374.8782862706914px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840353/8-our-zippy-jucy-hatch-back-was-indispensable.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/ea017fe08a2e4a5aa026040fd34cc26a" /> Our zippy JUCY hatch-back was indispensable. After six weeks, we said a tearful farewell and reluctantly returned to New Zealand to enter our compulsory two-week managed isolation period. We spent 14 days in a standard hotel room at The Grand Millennium in Auckland under the ever-watchful eyes of defence force, police and security personnel. We had great plans to do Pilates and yoga together but the room was so small only one of us could exercise at a time. We were comfortable, well-fed, thoroughly Covid-tested and kept safe from infection but two weeks in a room with windows that did not open and just 30 minutes of fresh air and sunshine a day was challenging to say the least. However, it was worth every minute for the joy and fulfilment we discovered as grandparents. It’s given new purpose and meaning in our lives. I just can’t wait to go back to shift work in Sydney. Factbox: <ul> <li>In preparation for the time when we can again travel freely, check out thousands of <a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes">Love Home Swap</a> properties all around the world.</li> <li>There is a two-week free trial and then you choose from one of three membership tiers starting at around $NZ20/$AUS18 a month.</li> <li>Have a look-see at what’s available in <a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes/newzealand">New Zealand, </a><a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes/Australia">Australia</a> and the <a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes/Australia"></a><a href="https://www.lovehomeswap.com/homes/cook-islands">Cook Islands</a>.</li> <li>Rent a car or campervan from <a href="https://www.jucy.com/au/en">JUCY Rentals</a> who have been providing reliable and budget-friendly rentals in Australia for over 11 years.</li> </ul>

International Travel

The golf widow

<div>Homestead Bay on Lake Wakatipu.</div> I’ve never understood my husband’s obsession with golf. Hitting a little white ball around acres of perfectly-manicured grass on gently undulating terrain is not my definition of exhilarating exercise . . . but he loves it despite the frustrations that seem to accompany the game. So while Chris and his mate chased little white balls around the immaculate golf course at Jack’s Point near Queenstown, I set off to explore far more rugged terrain on my ebike, totally happy to be a golf widow for a day. I had scintillating companions — the Remarkables and Lake Wakatipu — which dominate the landscape. I’ve always felt a strong affinity for the Remarkables dating back to my childhood days when we spent holidays at our little crib in Arrowtown. I regarded the sawtooth pinnacles of the Remarkables as mystical, my ‘maunga tapu’ (sacred mountain).They are especially dazzling in winter when white snow accentuates the jagged jet black rocks near the summit. One summer, as a dewy-eyed teenager, I climbed the mountain with a friend and camped up there for the night. The mist came swirling in with cold, damp fingers at about 3am which was eerie and far from romantic — but the sunrise was magical. The mountains towered over me as I skirted the golf course and cycled along a stunning lakeside track with Wakatipu sparkling in the sunshine. The weather was glorious and I had the day to myself so I meandered along any track that caught my eye. With a 100-kilometre battery range, I knew I would not run out of power on my Wisper Wayfarer. I cycled through the multi-million dollar property development at the far reaches of Jack’s Point, marvelling at the sprawling mansions under construction and the magnificent views the occupants would enjoy. Late in the day, I discovered Homestead Bay, a perfect spot to park our Maui motorhome overnight. With the snow on the Remarkables turning pink in the sunset and the lapping waters of Lake Wakatipu just a few metres away, it was an idyllic place to stay. The views were even better than the fancy mansions at Jack’s Point. But without knowing for sure whether freedom camping was permitted there, Chris decided it was safer to park in his golf mate’s driveway rather than risk a hefty fine. That’s another great thing about motorhoming. You can invite yourself to stay with friends without imposing on their space. He lives right on the edge of the golf course with a great elevated view of the lake and the mountains. Sticking with the golf theme, next day we cycled around the five-star Millbrook Resort set on 650 acres near Arrowtown. Chris wanted to check out the resort’s world-renowned golf course for future reference while I was keen to see what had become of the rolling farmlands and pretty little stream that I remembered in my youth. I had always known there was once a mill on the site but learning the full story was fascinating. In the 1860s, at the height of the Central Otago gold rush, French brothers John and Peter Butel from Normandy established a 450-acre wheat farm near Arrowtown to feed hungry goldminers. It was known as Mill Farm. The Butel brothers helped create Arrowtown’s first water race which can still be seen around the resort today. Originally built as a service to miners, it became the main water supply for the emerging township. Peter Butel was the first in the district to install electricity, running a generator off the water wheel he used for the mill. <img style="width: 300.78125px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839353/5-the-mill-stream-babbles-its-way-through-millbrook-resort.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/08d90a01049942c1aa11ce11c146d776" /> The mill stream babbles its way through Millbrook Resort. In the early 1900s, Millbrook became a camp for the Wakatipu Mounted Rifles and during WW1 it was converted to a hospital for injured Kiwi soldiers returning from Europe. After World War II the land reverted to farming. Four decades later, the Ishii family came up with a plan to establish a lifestyle and golf resort of international standing on the land, and in 1993 Millbrook Resort opened to the public. In 2014 Millbrook purchased the neighbouring farm and in 2018 work began on a new nine-hole golf course which will see the complex grow from a 27-hole to a 36-hole golf course. Nowadays, Millbrook is a five-star resort with luxurious accommodation, four onsite restaurants, a soon-to-be 36-hole championship golf course, day spa, health and fitness centre and conference venue. While Chris was drooling over the prospect of playing 36 holes of golf, I was more interested in the rustic remains of the old farm machinery, the restored mill wheel and buildings and the stately avenue of trees still standing after 150 years. It’s a peaceful, picturesque place surrounded by spectacular mountains. The old mill stream babbles its way through the property, feeding tranquil lakes and ponds that reflect the beauty of the landscape. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839354/1-i-cycled-along-a-stunning-lakeside-track-with-wakatipu-sparkling-in-the-sunshine.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/fcc7d5669edc426e8963929017bce464" /> <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839354/1-i-cycled-along-a-stunning-lakeside-track-with-wakatipu-sparkling-in-the-sunshine.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/fcc7d5669edc426e8963929017bce464" />I cycled along a stunning lakeside track with Wakatipu sparkling in the sunshine. Photos by Justine Tyerman We sat in the sunshine and had coffee at the Hole In One Cafe before heading to our next destination. That was the closest Chris got to playing golf that day. Two days of golf widowhood would have been one too many on an ebike holiday. To be continued... <div>Read <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=2fFzQ1wtyiodwskIBQ4JVvViBc68KsIaXL7JozY1KCD6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fheading-for-paradise" target="_blank">part 1</a>, <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=BBsJo-eUsUQYSrWM2VT2uxp14hUBYiAkph4kEzYecoD6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fturning-greener-with-the-years" target="_blank">part 2</a>, <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=iBcmRS80gDFdRO80aBdHytOmh-n8EZJl54oaf9flot36lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fin-the-company-of-giants" target="_blank">part 3</a>, <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=AdZ5KLNAxMnSOVg9b6YxTitSqNh5QRX_JRdfbp5QSYD6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fside-tracked-with-justine-tyerman" target="_blank">part 4</a>, <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=sot8tH660q6Wk4pBtTPTdbhItB3lA7lYLqq94tU-6Uj6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2ffreewheeling-with-justine-tyerman" target="_blank">part 5</a> of Justine’s Central Otago road trip here.</div> <div></div> <div>Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=bLkS9zYVJYJv3cQdm0_X1ZQB_1o4x1s2ikYto_9uL2n6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fRRP8C71RRPFmwDJT8y37E%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com" target="_blank">thl</a> in a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=6W8lckCI1tg0XRjV7mnS7Jf_p7XphCrKPnhc3WsW1cD6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2frbTkC81VVQFjEoKS1P9YD%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com" target="_blank">Maui 4-berth Cascade motorhome,</a> and rode a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=iwo5gWMw0OwkyXR-zqiLaN1D_KuAQgmwEtBzG_Z0sHj6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fQUVkC91WW0FmDGpT3BLtX%3fdomain%3dwisperbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Wisper Wayfarer ebike</a> courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=o2YxOLzo4dxmUUl80mMJJFkRJoJmjv8dl7kyMtP8lhD6lEC3C7LYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fMa6oC0YKKGC2p1LUWBkIy%3fdomain%3delectricbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Electric Bikes NZ</a></div>

Domestic Travel

Freewheeling with Justine Tyerman

With visions of sipping a Peregrine rosé at the end of the 20km trail from Arrowtown to the Gibbston Valley, we set off early on our Wisper Wayfarer ebikes while a skiff of frost was still on the ground. We never seemed to tire of ebiking, regardless of the weather. The cycle and walking track runs alongside the tranquil, willow-lined Arrow River made famous by the gold rushes of the 1860s. It crosses the river several times using a variety of clever methods including an ingenious underbridge below the road bridge at Whitechapel to keep riders safe from the busy highway. A highlight was riding over the graceful 80-metre Edgar Suspension Bridge, high above the Arrow River where it plunges into a deep gorge before joining the mighty turquoise Kawarau River. An impressive engineering feat, the structure is so light on the landscape, it’s almost invisible. It’s named after a distant relative of mine so I felt proud to be riding over it. <img style="width: 300.78125px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839145/1-justine-and-chris-on-the-frankton-to-kelvin-heights-track-around-lake-wakatipu-copy.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/031588eabbc440799fb7430082d85f75" /> Another thrill was crossing the historic 1880 Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge, a landmark which used to herald the much-anticipated announcement from our parents that we were nearing Arrowtown after a four-five hour car trip from Dunedin. After its replacement in 1963 with a new bridge, the old one became the exclusive domain of bikers, hikers and A.J. Hackett’s Kawarau River bungy, the world’s first ever bungy jump. We stopped, as we always do, to watch a steady stream of thrill seekers plunge off the bridge head first, feet first, in pairs or alone, screaming their heads off. We shook our heads in disbelief, and continued on our way along the breath-taking Gibbston Valley on a track right on the edge of the canyon. That was thrilling enough for us. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839142/3-the-bungy-jump-platform-at-the-historic-kawarau-bridge-on-the-arrowtown-to-gibbston-valley-track.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/addf7eb38aec425aabfc6c72d531491b" /> The bungy jump platform at the historic Kawarau Bridge on the Arrowtown to Gibbston Valley track. As luck would have it, Peregrine Winery was closed for a wedding but with a plethora of other wineries in the valley to choose from, we found a delectable rosé at Chard Farm instead. After a night at the excellent Arrowtown Camping ground where we were again surrounded by Maui look-alikes (Kiwis were out in force supporting the tourism industry!), we cycled up the gorge towards the old gold mining ghost town of Macetown, as we often do whenever we visit my childhood holiday place. In the summer tart gooseberries, sweet raspberries and pastel-coloured lupins grow wild and dusty on the side of the track but in the winter, hoar frost transforms the skeletal plants to silvery works of filigree. Whatever the season the play of light on the tussocked hills and the dark shadows cast by the high mountain ranges and deep gorges is spell-binding. On the way back, we visited the Police Camp Cottage in the Arrow River, possibly the most photographed structure in Arrowtown. Inside the cottage, there’s excellent information about the history of the building. It was built in 1863 and is Arrowtown's oldest surviving timber building. It was constructed from pit-sawn red beech and had hand-cut shakes on the roof. Originally in Cardigan Street, it was moved to its present site in 1991. When gold was discovered in 1862 in the Arrow and Shotover Rivers by Jack Tewa, miners descended on Arrowtown in their droves. They were an unruly lot so law enforcement and the building of a jail and the cottage quickly followed. Its exact purpose is not known but bars on the windows suggest it might have been used as a gold deposit office that held the gold securely before it was transported by armed escort to Dunedin. Also inside the cottage, there’s a wealth of information about rare plants and protected wildlife such as the kea and cryptic skink, efforts to control wilding pines and protect native birds, lizards and insects against predators like stoats, ferrets, cats and rats. The entire Wakatipu Basin is a network of immaculately-maintained hiking and biking trails so next day, we were spoilt for choice. After queueing up with the locals for hearty filled rolls from the Arrowtown Bakery, we rode along the Kawarau River, sparkling like phosphorus at the foot of the Remarkables, terrain that was new to us despite holidaying in the area for decades. We crossed the Shotover River on another iconic landmark, the Lower Shotover Bridge, now open only to foot and pedal traffic . . . and probably horses. Tall poplars, magnificent in autumn but gaunt in winter, stood sentinel at the entrance to the bridge. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839143/4-justine-taking-a-break-in-the-gibbston-valley-overlooking-the-kawarau-river.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/49f6ca95ed0b4665b89055bc3e4cece9" /><img style="width: 300.78125px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839143/4-justine-taking-a-break-in-the-gibbston-valley-overlooking-the-kawarau-river.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/49f6ca95ed0b4665b89055bc3e4cece9" /> Justine taking a break in the Gibbston Valley overlooking the Kawarau River. We whizzed along the shingle riverbed and over the historic Kawarau Falls Bridge which has been superseded by a smart new two-lane structure. <img style="width: 300.78125px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839146/1-justine-and-chris-on-the-frankton-to-kelvin-heights-track-around-lake-wakatipu.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/bf3c91f0bc0f4169ab93fe038d24dd51" /> Justine and Chris on the Frankton to Kelvin Heights track around Lake Wakatipu. The track skirts the edge of Lake Wakatipu in front of the Hilton Hotel at Frankton and passes below million-dollar mansions interspersed with quaint Kiwi cribs. We lunched by the lake at Kelvin Heights. Angry storm clouds amassing down the lake looked ominous, so we high-tailed it back to Arrowtown on our zippy e-bikes arriving at our cosy Maui motorhome just before the heavens opened. To be continued... Read <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=0GMIbnN87DsjMFAs_RntUvaijjyLSXDBhcbZZtsBrYAAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fheading-for-paradise">part 1</a>, <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=bjiUdwydiTZ4jgDPbudNlZIFwb4Pg9C4-0piecnz1T4AKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fturning-greener-with-the-years">part 2</a>, <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=G_WyeMHKC2MrVIogTpUti2dfBXXWyFZwiBNTkl3u3wwAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fin-the-company-of-giants">part 3</a>, and <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=1Yof2WyTpVF-KYh4zlyCMGD1WNVR44HEcHeU60koW2gAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.oversixty.com.au%2ftravel%2finternational-travel%2fside-tracked-with-justine-tyerman">part 4</a> of Justine’s Central Otago road trip here. Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=AxB4ieU8dbDlo-KSg6mfo2TS0ohvK_yu3Y_Ms9OprbgAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2f0NZvC71RRPFAjrRi8EI5K%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com">thl</a> in a <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=rH__qBmu8aq4Meyz4q2EX23I1hOnFnekHAcKFtIGKPgAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fSZ3uC81VVQF68mku1wRMn%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com">Maui 4-berth Cascade motorhome,</a> and rode a <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=RJ-XB2tGxAqzF0-xb_RAw9i5dZyJtxQEWsOaB25D_hQAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fhPV0C91WW0FkVJOf3kUTe%3fdomain%3dwisperbikes.co.nz%2f">Wisper Wayfarer ebike</a> courtesy of <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=2Hxqx-1UtuJkw8bO_hX6hH94XbuW1HR20NwwJgKtuXsAKJWdDZvYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fy0IvC0YKKGCG0nyUWUHfG%3fdomain%3delectricbikes.co.nz%2f">Electric Bikes NZ</a>

International Travel

Side-tracked with Justine Tyerman

The handful of Kiwis on the road from Glenorchy to Queenstown got a bonus the day we left Paradise – there were two of everything: mountains upright in their usual position and upside down in the Lake Wakatipu looking-glass. Reality and reflection were hard to tell apart. The historic TSS Earnslaw was steaming towards Queenstown against a stunning backdrop of the Remarkables after a fresh fall of snow. Arrowtown, my childhood holiday home, was our next destination for... but we got side-tracked along the way as often happens when you have the freedom and flexibility of travelling by motorhome. About 5km from Arrowtown, I shrieked ‘Pull over here!’ which my obliging husband was able to do safely at short notice, only because this usually busy tourist road was deserted. We simply could not by-pass Lake Hayes, the world-famous mirror lake where we used to swim and picnic as kids in the summer. We drove down to the water’s edge and debated whether we had time to cycle around the lake on the superb new trail before the weather was forecast to crack up late in the afternoon. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839073/wyus57w0.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/58cc0af220ca436e903204b86c8412cd" /> Lake Hayes in autumn regalia. Photo by Destination Queenstown With our powerful Wisper Wayfarer ebikes aboard, we were confident that if the weather misbehaved or we miscalculated the distance, we’d be able to get back home fast. We set off in full winter ski gear with a hint of snow in the air. The 8km grade 2 uppy-downy loop track was a bit like a roller coaster ride climbing high above the lake on the far side and then descending steeply so I made great use of the power-assist and throttle on my Wayfarer. The hills were no trouble at all, such a novelty for a cyclist like me for whom the word ‘pushbike’ has, in the past, had a literal meaning - whenever I encountered anything other than flat terrain, I became a pusher. The trail around the lake was breathtakingly scenic even though the mirror effect was more like crumpled taffeta rather than satin. Coronet Peak, resplendent in pure white, stood regally on one side of the lake and the iconic Double Cone of the Remarkables Range on the other. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7839044/justine2-edit.png" alt="Our Maui Cascade motorhome on the shores of Lake Hayes. Photo by Justine Tyerman" data-udi="umb://media/8ea30167c7194d98a16555fe32547a27" /> Our Maui Cascade motorhome on the shores of Lake Hayes. Photo by Justine Tyerman There were many information boards along the way explaining the preciousness of the wetlands, the many native water birds who nest there such as the endangered crested grebe, Project Gold that aims to re-establish kowhai trees which once flourished in Central Otago, and the sculpting of the landscape by massive glaciers in the last Ice Age. We stopped for lunch at the highest point of the trail and looked across the lake at the multi-million-dollar houses that have sprung up along shore in recent years. Discovering a lovely freedom camping spot on the edge of the lake, we decided to park there for the night instead of continuing on to the Arrowtown Holiday Park. Ah, the joys of travelling in a fully self-contained Maui motorhome with the convenience of having a kitchen, fridge, freezer, bathroom, bedroom, lounge and dining room at our disposal. The ability to stop wherever and whenever the spirit willed gave us a delicious sense of freedom. By early evening, snowflakes began to drift down from a slate grey sky and the temperatures plummeted. We pulled the thermal blinds, turned on the heating and enjoyed hot showers followed by tummy-warming gluhwein as we prepared dinner. Showering in a confined space is quite an art and requires a high degree of organisation, ensuring one has everything needed before enclosing oneself in a cubicle about a quarter the size of a regular shower. The gas-heated hot water cylinder allows for two 3-minute hot showers, or longer when you are plugged into mains power at a camping ground. Overnight, we were so snug we had to open a skylight... even in the snow. To be continued... Read <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/heading-for-paradise">part 1</a>, <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/turning-greener-with-the-years">part 2</a> and <a href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international-travel/in-the-company-of-giants">part 3</a> of Justine’s Central Otago road trip here. *Māori originally named the lake Te Whaka-ata a Haki-te-kura after an ancestress called Haki-te-kura whose image is said to be reflected in the lake. *Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=7BtkdCC0m6zkzxkMbzBp_u-wDIiN0dqP5C4--uPeeORQEIbDN5PYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fJhhmC1WLLJHWzgHLuGio%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com">thl</a> in a <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=Qkj6NLpKp2tlANmS7flVVwRI3QQ1--ikfep03D2Q2yJQEIbDN5PYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fxoYeC2xMMKiylrC1Psne%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com">Maui 4-berth Cascade motorhome,</a> and rode a <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=EREOstBETVaXmFP1mVnBaKL_EfzEYOF92sK3gvj8QSNQEIbDN5PYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2f7HYRC3QNNLSNA3T2mkmn%3fdomain%3dwisperbikes.co.nz%2f">Wisper Wayfarer ebike</a> courtesy of <a href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=el2BMJzFCzOsVE0F-1QDqIDJkkAkbT1z4nc0mxuNGHZQEIbDN5PYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fGgjoC4QOOMSk0PCWQMn4%3fdomain%3delectricbikes.co.nz%2f">Electric Bikes NZ</a>

International Travel

In the company of giants

The remote, beautiful land at the head of Lake Wakatipu richly deserves to be called Paradise but I discovered, with some disappointment, that it is so-named not for the heavenly scenery but for the eponymous duck! Despite its remoteness, the magnetism of Paradise has been a magnet for adventurous travellers since the 1880s when hundreds used to sail up Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown by steamer. Disembarking at Glenorchy, they would travel by dray and coach to Paradise Homestead where owner Granny Aitken used to feed 120 for lunch and host as many as 28 overnight guests. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838796/2-justine-and-her-brand-new-wisper-wayfarer-ebike-en-route-to-the-greenstone-valley.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/a814bbc3eee141b49bd22148347db7ed" /> Justine and her brand new Wisper Wayfarer ebike en route to the Greenstone Valley. Picture by Justine Tyerman The spectacular landscape has also attracted the attention of film-makers from all over the world. The Lord of the Rings trilogy, The Hobbit, Mission Impossible, X-men and Vertical Limit were all filmed amid the region’s breath-taking mountains, rivers, lakes and forests. The dramatic terrain was sculpted by glaciers in the last Ice Age. The deeply-weathered silver schist face of Mt Earnslaw, the tallest mountain in the area at 2,830m, dominates the landscape, while wedge-shaped Mt Alfred, 1,365m sits right in the centre of the valley, dividing the Dart and Rees rivers. Surrounding the valley are the magnificent Richardson and Humboldt ranges... and many mountains named after Greek gods. Over the next few days, Chris and I spent much time in the company of these mighty snow-capped giants and became familiar with their many faces – sparkling silver after a frost, rosy pink with the sunrise, glowing gold at sunset or veiled in diaphanous mist just before dawn. We explored the region on our brand new Wisper Wayfarer ebikes courtesy of Electric Bikes NZ. It was such a novelty for me to be able to cycle effortlessly uphill and keep up with my super-fit husband. <img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838797/4.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/593e68b9701e45968c792c651b059aae" /> Let me in - it's cold out here! Justine is keen to warm up at the end of a long day's cycling. Picture by Chris Tyerman We headed for Kinloch and rode along the shores of Lake Wakatipu to the Greenstone Valley. Lake Wakatipu is seldom like a mirror but that day, the whole lake was glassy calm. The only traffic we encountered on the back country road was a 4WD vehicle and a young mum out for a walk with her baby and dog. The undulating gravel road took us through beech forests and across clear mountain streams. I was busy congratulating myself for managing to stay dry while fording the streams but the last one was deeper than the rest and I panicked and stopped half way across. Hubby heroically came to the rescue so we both ended up getting wet. Fortunately, it was a mild day and we dried out fast in the sunshine. We also paid a visit to Paradise Trust Lodge to see the rebuild of the property after fire destroyed the historic homestead in 2013, a few months after we had stayed there on our first-ever cycle trip with Matt and Kate Belcher’s Revolution Tours. The lodge has been painstakingly rebuilt retaining three stone chimneys as a memorial to the original homestead. We cycled a loop track through the forest, past rustic cottages with outside baths and saunas to a vantage point high above the Dart River as it carves its way from deep within the Main Divide. Here in Paradise, we were literally in the presence of the gods, surrounded by mountains named Chaos, Poseidon, Nox, Cosmos, Minos, Pluto and Cosmos. Thanks to our zippy Wispers, we covered a huge distance in no time. While in Glenorchy, we were delighted to hear that Ngai Tahu Tourism-operated Dart River Adventures are due to reopen in December so their powerful Hamilton jetboats will once again be thundering up the river and deep into the heart of the Mount Aspiring National Park and the southern reaches of the Main Divide. Encircled by the magnificent mountain peaks of the Southern Alps, gleaming glaciers, frozen waterfalls and hanging valleys, the park’s outstanding natural beauty has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status. It’s an outstanding experience - I’ve done it twice and would do it again in a heartbeat. There’s a lake-edge DoC (Department of Conservation) camping site at Kinloch so we parked our Maui motorhome there for the night, keen to linger in this exquisite, remote and tranquil part of Aotearoa. Nearby Kinloch Lodge serves superb cuisine if you feel like dining out. The historic lodge, a mecca for travellers since 1868, retains its authentic, old-world charm... and it has an outside hot tub. Bliss at the end of a long day cycling. <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/heading-for-paradise">Read story #1 here.</a> <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/turning-greener-with-the-years">And story #2 here.</a> To be continued. Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=-xHEHhRYAVw9CNAFNuTivSsD7VqzBFs6UUwpjSJ6L0sHdb_veYfYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fCf4DCWLVV3CwNTK6ntP%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com" target="_blank">thl</a> in a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=Rr0taEuzZcVbO2f5WlI1D_SoDcA4oIeWlgg1HMTh9NQHdb_veYfYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2f99a6CXLWW8C7kIkVRdv%3fdomain%3dmaui-rentals.com" target="_blank">Maui 4-berth Cascade motorhome,</a> and rode a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=ZLTL3hhOHzowCF2AeJcWywwC2Zc9WNGVxDK1KMtqClkHdb_veYfYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fezm9CYW883HojIMAGFW%3fdomain%3dwisperbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Wisper Wayfarer ebike</a> courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=2qwV6bEr40LVS92yaaSA_-v9XJCxHJEEtlrbuC_DYGQHdb_veYfYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fprotect-au.mimecast.com%2fs%2fWNUBCZY117CnXfPtHR2%3fdomain%3delectricbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Electric Bikes NZ</a>

Domestic Travel

Turning greener with the years

<div>A few years ago, when we stayed at Mrs Woolly’s Camping Ground at Glenorchy, we were fascinated by the construction of the multi-million-dollar Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat under way next door. Turning greener with the years, I’ve been keen to check it out ever since. We finally got to stay there on our recent South Island ebiking and motorhome road-trip.</div> <div></div> <div>Opened in March 2018, the story behind the camp is visionary and inspirational. It’s the brainchild of US philanthropists Debbi and Paul Brainerd who fell in love with the Glenorchy region 20 years earlier after tramping the Routeburn and Hollyford Tracks. Designed according to the Living Building Challenge (LBC), the most rigorous sustainability standards in the world, the camp is committed to “offering a unique opportunity to experience living in harmony with nature”. The seven categories of the LBC are represented as the petals of a flower – Place, Health and Happiness, Energy, Water, Materials, Beauty and Equity – and involve such factors as supplying their own water and energy, having a healthy interrelationship with nature, supporting a just and equitable world, celebrating design that uplifts the human spirit, using materials that are safe for all species, creating spaces that optimise health and wellbeing . . . all concepts close to my heart, especially the energy and water efficiency aspects.</div> <div></div> <div><img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838654/2-early-morning-surrounded-by-snow-capped-mountains-at-camp-glenorchy-eco-retreat.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/525df7e39e2f49f78556dedbc7becc20" /></div> <div>Early morning, surrounded by snow-capped mountains at Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat. Picture by Justine Tyerman</div> <div></div> <div>New Zealand's only net positive energy accommodation, clever technology allows the camp to generate more energy than it uses – in fact it generates 105 percent of the energy it uses each year.</div> <div> Facilities include smart bunkhouses and eco cabins, powered RV/motorhome sites, and shared spaces for guests in the Homestead with a fabulously well-equipped open kitchen, dining room, sunroom, lounge, conference rooms and an outside campfire.</div> <div> Eye-catching artworks are a feature of the camp. An entire wall in the Humboldt Room, named after the magnificent mountain range it looks onto, is made of driftwood by international landscape artist Jeffrey Bale.</div> <div> I loved the use of recycled materials from the demolition of local woolsheds, stockyards, a grain warehouse and buildings damaged in the Christchurch earthquakes.</div> <div> There are state-of-the-art bathroom facilities with fabulous fully-tiled showers and 100 percent odourless composting toilets that save a whopping 300,000 litres of water per year. Purified rainwater supplies the showers and solar power is the energy source.</div> <div></div> <div><img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838657/3.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/c65f986fae3c4c4395da1e7a560c2e01" /></div> <div>The Homestead building at Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat. Picture by Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat</div> <div> Photos in the Homestead tell the story of the camp’s construction. There’s also historical information about the Head of the Lake for guests to read. Maori began arriving in Aotearoa about 750 years ago and named the South Island Te Wai Pounamu, the ‘Waters of Greenstone’. The region is rich in pounamu, a stone highly treasured by Maori who carved it into adzes, chisels, knives, hooks, clubs and ornaments. European settlement in the area began in 1861 when William Rees established a sheep station there. Then came the gold rush of 1862, sawmilling of beech and totara, scheelite mining and tourism. Travellers in the 1880s came up the lake by steamship had a choice of three hotels. A road link from Queenstown was opened in 1962 and finally sealed in 1997. All profits from Camp Glenorchy go to the Glenorchy Community Trust, directed by leaders of the local community “to support initiatives that enhance the liveability and vibrancy of Glenorchy”. The retreat has recently been named in TIME magazine's list of the World's 100 Greatest Places. It’s seriously impressive, especially for those, like me, into sustainability. In the evening, we had our first night ride on our Wisper Wayfarer ebikes – just a couple of minutes to the Glenorchy Hotel where we enjoyed a hearty dinner by a roaring open fire. The place was packed with locals and visitors watching a rugby match. Such a warm, friendly environment.</div> <div></div> <div><img style="width: 500px; height: 300.78125px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838658/4-the-communal-kitchen-at-camp-glenorchy-eco-retreat.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/8085163b3f9d4c23aa5d289ca10d1f36" /></div> <div>The communal kitchen at Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat. Picture by Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat</div> <div> As we cycled back to the camp, the dark night sky was studded with stars. Glenorchy’s isolation makes it one of New Zealand’s best star-gazing locations, especially on clear winter nights.</div> <div> Our motorhome was surrounded by Maui look-a-likes when we arrived home. New Zealanders had certainly heeded the call to explore their own backyard and were out in force. It was a frosty evening but we were cosy in no time, thanks to the efficient heating system. We lit the gas, boiled water for hot water bottles, left the heating on low and piled on an extra duvet, thinking we would freeze . . . but after five minutes the hotties and the extra duvet got the biff, we turned the heating off, opened a skylight and slept soundly. Talking of sleep, the bedding arrangement in the 4-berth Cascade was ingenious. At the push of a button, a queen-size bed appeared from the ceiling while another below was able to be made up from the squabs in the rear lounge. The upper bed recessed into the ceiling when not in use. Such clever use of space. We awoke to a perfect day. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the view from our bedroom window was breath-taking. We couldn’t wait to jump on our ebikes and explore more of this place called Paradise . . . To be continued. </div> <div>Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=tWPA3DSjp88h92_m_yOej0Tyw3e6LI4rEYpaeNNn58pcBoKUAILYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.maui-rentals.com%2fnz%2fen%3futm_medium%3dreferral%26utm_source%3djustine-tyerman" target="_blank">thl</a> in a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=T67CO7HaB4Hy8m49Jc0LTYu_fAqurQYwHDvzQwTYtjhcBoKUAILYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwww.maui-rentals.com%2fnz%2fen%2fmotorhome-hire%2f4-berth-campervan-cascade%3futm_medium%3dreferral%26utm_source%3djustine-tyerman" target="_blank">Maui 4-berth Cascade motorhome,</a> and rode a <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=D4fFGghFbcshDq0SojkHUYYtEIErEO2QmPI-NhfBaw9cBoKUAILYCA..&URL=https%3a%2f%2fwisperbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Wisper Wayfarer ebike</a> courtesy of <a rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://email.directgroup.com.au/owa/redir.aspx?C=SoAD83WgCmviEe9KsPsHJwa1cyBdBdVIeFrgwi6WIeBcBoKUAILYCA..&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.electricbikes.co.nz%2f" target="_blank">Electric Bikes NZ</a></div>

International Travel

The trip of a lifetime: Saying farewell to The Ghan

As The Ghan nears Adelaide, Justine Tyerman finds herself reluctant to disembark and rejoin the real world. Here is the final of a four-part series about her 2979km four-day, three-night expedition on the famous transcontinental train Darwin to Adelaide. I was awake before dawn to witness sunrise over the magnificent Flinders Ranges that stretch 430km. Edward John Eyre, who explored the ranges in the 1830s was convinced he would discover land suitable for farming there or even an inland sea but finding mainly barren land, he named many sites to reflect his disappointment: Mt Deception and Mt Hopeless. On the other side of the train, the blue waters of the beautiful Spencer Gulf sparkled in the sun, and as we neared Adelaide, there were golden wheat fields, green pastures, tall haystacks and rolling hills, such a contrast to the landscape we had traversed over the preceding days. The massive turbines of the Snowdon Wind Farm on the ridges of the Barunga and Hummocks Ranges are a dramatic sight. With blades up to 53m in length weighing 10 tonnes each, they are expected to generate enough energy to power 230,000 homes, about 40 percent of South Australia’s annual electricity needs. Before breakfast my hospitality attendant Aaron, who had looked after me so well, took me on a tour of The Ghan, beyond the carriages, lounge and restaurant that were our part of the train. With 285 passengers spread over 38 carriages, it’s a busy schedule for the 49 staff on board. Their care and attention to detail is impeccable. I met our chefs Russel and Terry busy preparing breakfast in their long narrow kitchen and complimented them on the splendid cuisine they consistently produced. Aaron walked me through the noisy power van to the three Platinum Class carriages, the equivalent of first class. The cabins are more spacious than Gold Class with double beds, larger bathrooms and separate showers. Guests have access to two lounges, a dining room and alcoves with coffee machines. The décor is contemporary rather than traditional and ‘trainly’ like our Queen Adelaide Restaurant. The facilities are certainly luxurious offering more privacy and dining options but I preferred our more relaxed Gold Service part of the train. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7822154/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/692b6cdd303d4bfc949305d1fbc9478d" /> Platinum Service cabin with the bed made up. Our last meal was a leisurely brunch before arriving in Adelaide late morning. The blackcurrant and apple juice was lovely and refreshing along with the wild berry, mint and natural yoghurt sprinkled with toasted almonds and hazelnut crumble. The delectable gammon steak, eggs, slow roasted tomatoes and rosti was over-ambitious but I just had to try it. On the way back to my cabin, there was a kerfuffle in the passageway – too many people coming and going at one time so the train manager Bruce Smith asked if he could use my cabin as a passing bay. “No problem,” I said. “I’ve been hoping to meet you anyway. I just want to say the service, care and attention I’ve experienced on The Ghan has been outstanding, impeccable, faultless.” He beamed and asked if he could detect a touch of Kiwi – and then it was all on for the next 15 minutes – politics, sport, the economy, jokes at the expense of Kiwis, jokes at the expense of Aussies. Aged 66, he’s been associated with trains for 50 years, originally as an electrician on the maintenance of The Ghan and for 24 years, working on the trains themselves. Bruce then launched into story telling mode: First of all, he talked about all the Aussie strawberries being dumped because of needles being found inside a few of them. Then he went on to tell me about how all the Aussie farmers were banding together to send hay to their drought-stricken colleagues in South Australia. “But they had to send it all back,” he said with a tragic look on his face. “They found a needle in a hay-stack,” he said. I dissolved in fits of laughter. I just love the Aussie wit. As we trundled towards Adelaide, I spent some quiet time in my cabin, reading about the history of this magnificent train which is due to celebrate its 90th birthday in 2019. Originally known as the ‘Afghan Express’, The Ghan was named for the pioneering cameleers who blazed a permanent trail into the Red Centre of Australia more than 150 years ago. Many cameleers were migrants from an area now known as Pakistan. However, according to outback lore in the 1800s, these men were believed to come from the mysterious outpost of Afghanistan and were considered Afghans - 'Ghans'. The original Ghan line followed the route of explorer John MacDouall Stuart. Construction began on the Port Augusta to Alice Springs line in 1877 but it was not until Sunday 4 August, 1929, that an excited crowd gathered at the Adelaide Railway Station to farewell the first Ghan train. This train carried supplies and over 100 passengers bound for the remote town of Stuart, now known as Alice Springs. The train arrived two days later, on 6 August. Back then, the train was steam hauled and had to contend with extreme conditions including flash flooding and intense heat. The old Ghan ran on a light, narrow-gauge track well to the east of the track it travels today. As well as termite damage, the track was subject to fire and flood. Flash flooding, when the normally dry river beds overflowed onto the low-lying desert, frequently washed away the track completely. Legend has it the Old Ghan was once stranded for two weeks in the Outback and the engine driver shot wild goats to feed the passengers. Diesel locomotives were introduced in 1954 to replace the traditional steam engines, cutting about five hours off the trip between Alice Springs and Adelaide. There are many colourful stories and legends about The Ghan but this one about true Aussie ingenuity really appealed to me. In October 1954, The Ghan broke down in Finke south of Alice Springs with electrical trouble and a blown gasket. The postmaster produced the tongue of an old shoe to repair the gasket and The Ghan went on its way. In 1980, the old Ghan rail track was abandoned in favour of a new standard-gauge rail line built with termite-proof concrete sleepers. The track was laid further to the west to avoid the flooding problems encountered along the old route. In 2001, the first sod was turned on the 1420km extension of the railway line from Alice Springs to Darwin. At its peak, 1500 people worked on the project and the new line was completed in just over 30 months, five months ahead of schedule. The Ghan embarked on its inaugural transcontinental journey on 1 February, 2004. Since then, more than half a million passengers have travelled on The Ghan. Today, the journey covers 2979 kilometres and encounters spectacular and diverse landscapes from the green and gold pastures of the South Australian plains, the rusty reds of the MacDonnell Ranges and the tropical landscape of Darwin. I also read a fascinating book about the cameleers who first arrived in South Australia in 1839. The camels were imported to carry goods for explorers and surveyors venturing inland. Being able to carry up to half a tonne in weight and survive without water for long periods of time, they were ideally suited to the harsh conditions of Australia’s interior. Their broad leathery foot pads protected them from the hot earth and prevented them from sinking into the sand. When they were no longer needed, rather than see their camels shot as ordered under the Camel Destruction Act, 1925, some cameleers released them into the wild where they flourished. Australia’s wild camel population is now estimated to be around one million. The Outback Lounges on The Ghan are named after heroic pioneers who explored the Australian interior. Our lounge was named after Edward John Eyre who lived from 1815 to 1901. Eyre survived a murderous mutiny to complete an expedition from Adelaide across the vast Nullarbor Plain to Albany in Western Australia. He also undertook an unsuccessful attempt to reach the centre of Australia. Another lounge was named after Scotsman John McDouall Stuart who lived from 1815 to 1866 and embarked on several death-defying attempts to cross Australia south to north, finally succeeding in 1862. I could have spent many more hours reading about the fascinating history of The Ghan but it was time to pack up my belongings and get ready to disembark. I also wanted to say goodbye to my delightful Ghan friends and thank the staff who had looked after me so well on the trip - Nick, Aaron, Howard, Sonya, Bidya, Mel and Ceidleigh. Such genuine, warm, talented lovely people who go the extra mile for their passengers. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7822155/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/80364cdeda234390a4e59e6235a053c9" /> Justine (far right) and her new friends on The Ghan, solo travellers from all parts of the globe. They don’t look for easy ways on the Ghan. The ethos is to surprise and delight guests, to go beyond the expected to the unexpected, the exceptional. Morning teas including champagne appeared in the most remote, distant and hard-to-access locations not because they were needed but because the staff wanted to add an extra treat to an already memorable experience. The chefs set up lunches, drinks and dinners in the most challenging off-train places – at the historic Overland Telegraph Station, in an underground opal mine, on a mountain top and beside a huge log fire in the desert against the backdrop of The Ghan. Having experienced the Indian Pacific trip from Perth to Sydney a few months earlier, the two journeys are quite different. There’s a lot of on-train time on the Indian Pacific so it’s extremely relaxing with many hours to read, day-dream, drift, doze, and watch the landscape. There’s on-board entertainment and a wealth of opportunities for socialising on the Indian Pacific because the excursions are shorter and less elaborate, especially on the Perth to Sydney trip. I found the three-night, four-day journey a deeply relaxing interlude in a busy life, an opportunity to recharge my physical and mental batteries. On The Ghan, passengers are off the train on excursions for most of the daylight and some evening hours so the bulk of the long stretches of travel are during the night. The only daytime travelling is the first day from Darwin to Katherine and the last day from around Port Augusta to Adelaide. The excursions I chose were energetic with a good amount of hiking and sight-seeing but there were other coach trips for less active or less mobile passengers including wheelchair access. Just down the hall from me was a spacious cabin especially equipped for disabled passengers. Another difference was the greater spread of ages on The Ghan, from children to teens to elderly and disabled. As we pulled into Adelaide, I had a real sense of loss and didn’t really want to rejoin the real world. The Ghan has a true romance, mystique, elegance, and presence. It got under my skin. I decided the only cure was to start planning another train journey. My Rail Plus adviser recommended the Belmond Grand Hibernian, a trip through the ever-changing panoramas of Ireland's celebrated scenic landscapes. FACTBOX: * The Ghan Expedition is a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. Justine travelled courtesy of international rail specialists Rail Plus and Great Southern Rail. * Visit <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/australia-by-rail/australias-great-train-journeys/the-ghan-expedition/ghan-expedition-prices-book.htm">Rail Plus </a> for more information on The Ghan and <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/">https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/</a> for other epic train adventures around the world. Rail Plus has a dedicated team of experts to advise you on Great Train Journeys all around the world including the <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/belmond-grand-hibernian/prices-book.htm">Belmond Grand Hibernian in Ireland.</a> The train traverses the sprawling countryside, dramatic coasts and fascinating cities that define this captivating land. With its lush green landscapes, mystical tales of old, fabulous food and a wealth of literary and musical talent, Ireland truly has something for everyone to enjoy.

International Travel

The Ghan: A day of surprises in Australia’s outback

Justine Tyerman continues her series about The Ghan Expedition, a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. On Day 3 she explores Coober Pedy’s surreal landscapes, opal mines, underground dwellings and one of the world’s most unique golf courses . . . I awoke to a dazzling dawn of gilt-edged clouds and red earth glowing in the early morning sun. There was very little vegetation and the horizon was dead flat, like the Nullarbor Plain that mesmerised me on my Indian Pacific journey earlier in the year. During the night, we crossed the waterless Hugh and Finke rivers. The Finke is believed to be the oldest river system in the world dating back 300 million years. I would love to have seen it in the daylight, or better still been able to jump off the train to watch the grand silver Ghan traverse the bridge over the red, rippled sand of the dry riverbed as shown on many postcards. At mealtimes on the train, a recklessness possessed me as if there was no tomorrow. Usually such a disciplined and abstemious breakfaster, I decided to have lashings of French toast made with nuts and fruit, the best I’ve ever tasted. Soon after, we arrived at Manguri a remote siding literally in the middle of nowhere. This was our disembarkation point where eight coaches were lined up to take passengers on a variety of Coober Pedy excursions. Our driver Mike was an outstanding guide who filled our 42km drive on a rough, corrugated, unsealed road with a brilliant, informative commentary about all aspects of the area. Halfway between Alice and Adelaide, Coober Pedy’s economy is based on the opal industry and tourism. The population is about 1900 of which 700 are aboriginal. There are 45 different nationalities all of whom live in harmony. The region is the opal capital of the world producing about 70 percent of the global production of this beautiful precious stone. Opals were discovered here in 1915 by a young lad named Willie Hutchison, aged 14, who wandered off from the campsite alone against the strict instructions of his father, a prospector. Willie came back with a sugar bag full of opals and also found water so he was quickly forgiven. Mike pointed south east towards the 23,677 square kilometre-Anna Creek Station, the world's largest working cattle station, 140km from Coober Pedy. And south west towards Maralinga where Britain carried out nuclear bomb tests in the 1960s, and the Woomera Prohibited Area, a 122,000 sq kilometre site declared a prohibited area in 1947. Its remoteness made it an ideal location for rocket research and testing electronic warfare. Important space technology was tested at Woomera that contributed to the 1969 moon landing. “And all around us, there are kangaroos, snakes, goannas, lizards, emus and brumbies,” Mike said with a sweep of his arm. But they were all hiding that day. The landscape was dotted with piles of earth called mullock heaps and bent-over towers above mine shafts where prospectors were excavating in search of opals. There are 2 million mullocks in the Coober Pedy area, with shafts up to 60-70 metres deep so you definitely don’t want to venture off the beaten track here. The towers, known as ‘blowers’, operate like giant vacuum cleaners to suck the earth up the shaft to the surface. They really should be called suckers not blowers. We also saw a number of ‘black lighting rigs’ where miners search tailings using ultra-violet light. When lit up with a black light, opals glow or fluoresce. Our first stop was a viewing point above the Breakaways, a breath-taking, surreal landscape where a series of colourful flat-topped hills or ‘mesa’ appear to have broken free and drifted away from the main plateau of the Stuart Ranges. <img style="width: 500px; height: 335.1593625498008px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821877/2.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/ffb90522482949f7b910cc72afee98c7" /> The breath-taking, surreal Breakaways. The colours - white, cream, pale pink, orange, mossy green, red, ochre, brown and black – were astonishing, especially when the sun emerged briefly from behind the clouds. The temperature was comparatively cool here after the heat of Darwin, Katherine and Alice Springs. The Breakaways are located in the 15,000-hectare Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park which belongs to the indigenous Antakirinja people who have inhabited the area, known to them as ‘Umoona’ meaning ‘long life’, for thousands of years. Submerged under an icy inland sea 100-120 million years ago, the region is rich in dinosaur fossils from plesiosaurs and ichthyosaurs. “There’s also rumours of large oil deposits underground here but this is a conservation park so that’s where the oil will stay - underground,” said Mike. The Ghan staff went to great efforts to set up morning tea at the lookout – just in case passengers were hungry or thirsty. Mike had to drag me away from the Breakaways that day, I was so hypnotised by the other-worldly landscape, but the promise of a close-up view finally got me back on the bus. We drove a short distance to rock formations known as ‘Salt and Pepper’ due to their distinctive colours, or ‘Two Dogs Sitting Down’ to the aboriginal people. Nearby was a peaked hill, known as ‘Wati’ (man), the owner of the dogs, and ‘Sleeping Camel’, a site of great significance to Antakirinja. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821879/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/f9fe68a5f5f74b8a88f8b3903883b92b" /> ‘Salt and Pepper’ or ‘Two Dogs Sitting Down’. Our next stop was the ‘Dog Fence’ built in the 1880s to protect sheep against dingo attacks. Stretching over 5300km through South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales, it’s the longest fence in the world. Costing about $10 million a year to maintain, the fence has saved farmers many more millions in stock losses. The surrounding terrain is called the ‘Moon Plains’ because of their striking resemblance to a lunar landscape. The earth was littered with gypsum which sparkled in the sun. At lunchtime, Mike deposited us at the entranceway to an underground restaurant in an opal mine, our first taste of Coober Pedy’s famous subterranean lifestyle. Before dining, we had an entertaining drilling and fuse-lighting demonstration by an old-timer named George, aged 76. “The average age of an underground miner these days is around 65 so we are an increasingly-rare breed,” he said. After a delicious lunch served at long tables set up in a series of underground tunnels, we visited the Umoona Opal Mine with guide Jacquie who explained the various types of opal from dark to light, and the way they are mounted. A solid piece of opal can be mounted as is, while thinner pieces, called triplets or doublets, are cemented together on a glass backing. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821880/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/514286bdf1aa48248808d95afd7deb10" /> An opal seam in the wall of the mine. Opals are valued according to brilliance, darkness, pattern, colour and shape – the more colour, the higher the value. The black crystal opal is the most rare and valuable. Jacquie also explained the history behind the intriguing name of Coober Pedy, and the reason for the underground dwellings. When opals were found here in 1915, miners came in their droves, many living underground to escape the intense heat and cold. Intrigued by this strange practice, the aboriginal people described the unusual living conditions as ‘kupa piti’ meaning ‘white man in a hole’. The name stuck and the settlement became known as Coober Pedy. One of the hottest places in Australia, summer temperatures often reach 45 degrees Celsius with ground temperatures as high as 65 degrees. In the winter, temperatures can plunge to zero. Underground, the temperatures are around 21-24 degrees year-round meaning no heating and cooling are required which allows for very economical living. Seventy percent of Coober Pedy’s population of 1900 live underground in dwellings dug into hillsides. The houses have normal-looking frontages with wet areas usually located near the entrance due to plumbing requirements but the bulk of the living quarters are underground. Each room has at least one airshaft. In the early days, the dwellings were dug out by hand but now modern drilling machinery is used. The house we toured with Jacquie was really spacious and quite luxurious. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821881/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/0afe6e7898f0490389e7fdf32ac34b8c" /> A modern underground house in Coober Pedy. If home-owners need extra space, they just tunnel out an extra room or two. No wall, floor or ceiling materials are needed, and there are minimal windows. The sandstone surfaces are painted with a sealer to combat dust and the end product is a warm rose-maroon colour with a swirly marble effect. “One of the great bonuses of building your house underground in Coober Pedy is that you might find enough opals to finance your construction project,” Jacquie said. There’s little risk of collapse because the gypsum in the rock makes it very strong. In days gone by, explosives used to be so commonplace in Coober Pedy, miners bought them from the local store along with their bread and milk. The drive-in theatre had a sign that read: ‘The use of explosives are not permitted in the theatre.’ But there was always some wise-crack who let off dynamite on New Year’s Eve, Jacquie said. Later Mike took us on a tour of the town, passing the school with 300 students, 30 teachers and the only swimming pool and library in town, the drive-in theatre, shooting range, race course, power station and a 20-bed hospital where specialists fly in once a month. Pregnant women go to Port Augusta to give birth. We also visited the town’s 18-hole golf course. Officially one of the top 10 most unique golf courses in the world, it’s totally grassless and the ‘greens’ are oiled earth. There’s artificial green turf on which to tee off but otherwise the entire course is dirt and sand. The locals certainly have a sense of humour. A large sign reads: ‘Keep off the grass.’ When it’s too hot to play during the day, night golf with illuminated courses and fluorescent balls is a popular option. The course is the only one in the world with reciprocal rights to play at St Andrews but there’s a catch – golfers are only allowed to play there in December-January, mid-winter in Scotland. With an annual rainfall of around 100ml a year, water is a precious resource in Coober Pedy. Water used to be trucked in but since 1967, the town has had the benefit of an artesian water source and a desalinisation plant. The town is self-sufficient in electricity with wind turbines, solar power and diesel back-up. Despite the heat, this harsh arid region has been the location of a number of major movies including Mad Max III, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Ground Zero and Pitch Black. Our last stop before heading back to The Ghan was the exquisite St Elijah’s Serbian Orthodox Church built underground in 1993. Guide Peter showed us around his ornately-decorated church tunnelled deep into a hillside. In the 1990s, the Serbian community numbered around 150 but there were other Orthodox people of different nationalities as well, many of whom used to travel to Adelaide for weddings, baptisms and other religious ceremonies. So they decided to build their own church. The main body of the rectangular building was tunnelled using a square machine but for the ceiling, a rounded machine was used to create the beautiful cinquefoil arch, a striking feature of the church. Decorated with icons from around Australia, New Zealand and Serbia, the stained glass windows and carvings are stunning. <img style="width: 333.3333333333333px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821882/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/8789b1f0b53e4d678c6731d335d377f8" /> The stained glass windows and carvings at St Elijah’s Serbian Orthodox Church church are stunning. Despite the bumpy ride back ‘home’, a few passengers nodded off on the bus. As we neared the train, Mike took us to the opposite side from where passengers usually embark and disembark for a rare photo opportunity of the full-length Ghan in the desert, without hundreds of people in the way. A magnificent sight, one that will stay with me forever. In the distance, I noticed a fire near the train. I drew it to Mike’s attention but he just winked. The fire in question turned out to be a sunset bonfire with canapés and drinks against a backdrop of the lantern-lit Ghan, our home for the last three days. Such a delightful surprise for passengers on our last night, and a perfect way to farewell The Ghan. Standing around the fire in the dusty clothes we’d worn all day made for a wonderfully informal occasion where everyone chatted about the highlights of their Ghan experience. As I looked around at the animated faces of people who had been strangers a few short days ago, I had a deep sense of happiness and joie de vivre. Lanterns on railway sleepers lit the way back to my carriage where Aaron was waiting patiently in the chilly evening to tick his list and count heads. I had a wonderful time over dinner with three other women who had by now become my good friends. We toasted the merits of solo travel and decided there was no better way to meet like-minded people. Our last dinner was superb – prawn and pork dumplings with sesame seed salad and orange caviar followed by tender lamb back strap with a dessert of chocolate and peanut butter delice with macadamia toffee brittle and berry sorbet. Later in the evening, restaurant manager Nick joined us in the bar and recited a beautiful poem he had written about The Ghan. It brought tears to my eyes. As I settled to sleep, rocked by the familiar motion of the train, the thought of disembarking in Adelaide the next day brought a lump to my throat... To be continued . . . FACTBOX: * The Ghan Expedition is a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. *Justine travelled courtesy of international rail specialists Rail Plus and Great Southern Rail. * Visit <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/australia-by-rail/australias-great-train-journeys/the-ghan-expedition/ghan-expedition-prices-book.htm">Rail Plus</a> for more information on The Ghan and <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/">https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/</a> for other epic train adventures around the world. *A veteran of many rail journeys organised through Rail Plus, I’ve also travelled on the Indian Pacific (see my series of four stories <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/domestic-travel/what-it-s-like-travelling-across-australia-on-board-the-indian-pacific">here</a>); and the <a href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/a-day-on-the-tranzalpine">TranzAlpine</a><a href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/a-day-on-the-tranzalpine">.</a> *Rail Plus has a dedicated team of experts to advise you on Great Train Journeys all around the world including the <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/the-blue-train/prices-book.htm">Blue Train</a> in South Africa that runs between Cape Town's monolithic Table Mountain and the jacaranda-lined streets of Pretoria.

International Travel

Travelling on The Ghan: Confronting my fear of snakes in Australia’s Red Centre

Justine Tyerman continues her series about The Ghan Expedition, a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. On Day 2, she wears long pants and socks and shoes, not sandals and definitely not jandals, on a hot day in Alice Springs. After narrowly missing the spectacle of an Aussie bushfire by showering at precisely the wrong moment on my first evening on The Ghan, I slept with my venetian blinds open for the entire four-day, three-night trip for fear of missing another dramatic sight. I was rewarded with beautiful moonlit scenes of vast deserts, dry riverbeds, distant ranges and silvery light flickering behind gum trees. My hospitality attendant Aaron knocked on our cabin doors early on Day 2 to make sure we were up, breakfasted and ready for our day in and around Alice Springs, Australia’s most famous Outback town. Dawn was magical as the bright light of the huge desert sun gradually illuminated Australia’s ‘Red Centre’ and the land began to glow. I loved watching the dark shadow of the train flickering across the terracotta terrain. It’s moments like these I wish I had a drone to view The Ghan tracking across the landscape from above. The area was dead flat like the Nullarbor Plain, but with trees. Breakfast in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant was a feast beginning with tropical juice and a choice of cereals, muesli, yoghurt, barramundi benedict, a full breakfast with everything - bacon, sausages, baked beans, tomatoes, spinach and eggs every way you could think of . . . or white chocolate and lychee pancakes. “I’ll diet next week,” I promised myself as I tucked into the pancakes. <img style="width: 375px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821700/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/76ef54f2335f4bc7866b1b70525c1d79" /> White chocolate and lychee pancakes for breakfast. I offered one to the farmers from South Australia I was sharing a table with but they were already having trouble getting through a full breakfast and barramundi benedict. At every meal, I added to my general knowledge about Australia. This salt-of-the-earth couple were producing special merino wool with a low itch-factor. Amazing! After breakfast, Aaron came to check on my kit for the day. We had been advised to wear long pants, socks and covered-in footwear but I hadn’t really given much thought to the reasoning behind it. “It’s for snake protection,” Aaron said cheerfully. Noticing the look of horror on my face, he added: “This IS the Northern Territory and this IS snake season.” I toyed with the idea of opting for the bus trip to the School of the Air, the Royal Flying Doctor Service Base and the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame instead of a day hiking in snake country but Aaron eyed me and hinted that would be ‘wussy’. “Just stamp your feet as you walk, stay in the middle of the bunch, and you’ll be fine,” he said. So I ‘womaned-up’, put on extra-thick socks and long-pants, faced my worst fears and had a brilliant day hiking. It was forecast to be a mere 32 degrees so the day was not too scorching hot. Disembarking at Alice Springs, we were greeted by an impressive bronze statue of an Afghan cameleer. The plaque told us that work on the planned railway from Adelaide to Darwin began in 1878 assisted by hardy Afghans and their camels that ferried passengers, food, supplies and freight to Alice Springs. When the railway reached Alice in 1929, the train became known as The Afghan Express and later The Ghan. The township of Alice Springs began life in 1871 as a repeater station along the Overland Telegraph Line. Alice is just 200km south of the geographical centre of Australia - halfway between Darwin and Adelaide, literally the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia. The economy is based on tourism, farming, gas and mining. Called ‘Mpwante’ by the indigenous Arrernte people, the area has been inhabited by them for around 40,000 years. The population is 28,000 of whom 20 percent are aboriginal. Our coach driver Andrew was an excellent guide with extensive knowledge of the region, especially the flora and fauna, from his days as a nurseryman. Our first stop was a historical site at the foot of Mt Gillen - a memorial to John Flynn (1880-1951), a Presbyterian minister whose vision was to construct ‘a mantle of safety over the Outback’. Flynn founded the Australian Inland Mission to bring medical, social and religious services to isolated Outback communities. In 1928, he set up the first flying doctor base in Cloncurry, Queensland, and soon after, the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the world's first air ambulance, was born. <img style="width: 500px; height: 329.0909090909091px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821702/1.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/6b433b8350b94ca4bb7264141399581e" /> A memorial to Rev John Flynn who set up the first flying doctor base in Cloncurry, Queensland in 1928. Soon after, the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the world's first air ambulance, was born. Andrew then led us on a nature walk, talking about points of interest such as the parallel MacDonnell Ranges formed 350 million years ago. He said deliberate controlled burning in the cooler months dated back to ancient times - it triggers the germination of species called fire weeds such as wattles or acacia. Buffel grass was introduced in 1961 as stock food but is now a pest, strangling other grasses. We came across a corkwood tree over 300 years old. Protected from extreme temperatures and bushfires by its thick bark, the Arrernte people make a paste from the ash of the burnt bark to heal wounds and even relieve teething pain. We stood beneath a beautiful 200-year-old ghost gum with a pure white trunk and branches. It survives in such arid conditions because of its far-reaching roots that extend sideways as far as the leaf canopy, seeking underground water. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821703/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/bee3553f5d244aedb796a239c3618017" /> A ghost gum at sunset at the Alice Springs Overland Telegraph Station. As I gazed skyward at the giant tree, Andrew casually said he spotted four snakes at the base of the tree yesterday. Seeing the look on my face, Lisa, who accompanied us from The Ghan, said: “Don’t worry Justine. Aussie snakes are scaredy-cats. They hide from people, not like South African snakes which are aggressive and come after you.” ‘Note to self – do NOT go to South Africa.’ The next part of the expedition took us up to the Cassia Hill Lookout with stunning views of the Alice Valley, Heavitree Range and Simpson’s Gap. The arid, rocky terrain looked very snaky to me so I stayed with the group and stamped all the way to the top of the hill, much to the amusement of a chap from Brisbane who said he had a king brown living under a rock in his garden. “Yes, it’s venomous,” he replied to my obvious question, “but it’s been there for years and doesn’t bother me.” “Really?” I replied, incredulous. “Yep. They’re also known as mulga snakes – there are large stands of mulga around these parts.” Gulp! An Aussie couple piped up saying they found a highly poisonous brown snake in bag of garden bark the other day, and chopped its head off with a spade. I made it to the top of the hill safely and was so fascinated by the geology of the area, I forgot all about snakes. The ancient rust-stained ranges surrounding us were the sandy bottom of an inland sea about 900 million years ago. Over time, enormous pressure from within the earth slowly raised the sea floor causing the water to drain away. The schist rock we were standing on was 1600 million years old, one of the oldest rock formations in Australia. The last of our hikes was to the spectacular Simpson’s Gap, a deep gash in the mountain range 60 million years in the making. Known to the Arrernte people as ‘Rungutjirpa’, the gap is the mythological home of their giant goanna ancestors and the site of several Dreaming trails. <img style="width: 500px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821704/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/cf0ec7d82ecf4a1a80feed754f3c5caf" /> Simpsons Gap from the top of Cassia Hill. The first Europeans to explore the gap were the surveyors for the Overland Telegraph Line who came upon the area while searching for a route north from Alice Springs. It was named Simpsons Gap after A. A. Simpson, President of the South Australian branch of the Royal Geographical Society. The Simpson Desert was also named in his honour. As we hiked along a path beside a dry riverbed, the rock walls began to close in on us until the canyon narrowed to a cleft just a few metres wide. The track came to an end at a deep pool which, in years gone by, fed into Roe Creek, the dry riverbed of which we had just walked alongside. The craggy red rock faces soaring high above us on both sides glowed in the reflected light of the pool, and from some angles, overlapped and intersected, casting deep shadows. <img style="width: 375px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821705/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/b66037c4563c4c1f801c7d9bd2e6f389" /> Justine at the pool at Simpsons Gap. Note the long pants, covered-in shoes and long-sleeved shirt on a hot day - snake protection! It was deliciously cool in the shade so I lingered there a while, absorbing the spell-binding atmosphere and tranquillity of the place. As my fingers traced the crevices of the ancient rocks, I wondered what stories they could tell after 60 million years. I felt a deep sense of reverence for ‘Rungutjirpa’. I took my time heading back to the bus, hoping to see signs of the colony of black-footed rock wallabies that inhabit a rocky outcrop below a cliff face. Only about half a metre tall and well-camouflaged, they’re hard to spot but after a while, I fancied I saw something hopping. I claimed it as a wallaby sighting anyway. A pair of statuesque rock pinnacles stood nearby as if guarding the colony. They looked like huge man-made sculptures, hewn from the rock. An information board about the 240km Larapinta Trail, one of Australia’s newest and most popular trails, took my eye. I’d love to spend more time exploring this magnificent landscape, and now I’ve (almost) overcome my snake phobia, it’s entirely possible. Looking back on the day, I saw little scenery at first because I was so conscious of scanning the terrain and watching my footing but after a while I relaxed and forgot all about my fears. We had a late lunch at the Alice Springs Desert Park where passengers who did not want to hike watched a free-flight bird show, met resident dingoes, visited desert animals of the night at the nocturnal house and learned about the flora, fauna and geology of the area. After freshening up back at The Ghan, coaches transferred us to the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station for dinner under a canopy of stars, entertained by a trio playing popular hits, country and western and trained-themed songs. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821707/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/340e42d11148435ea29ce3a95e3d92ab" /> The historic Alice Springs Overland Telegraph Station, our venue for dinner under the stars. Our brilliant chefs from The Ghan prepared an absolutely delicious feast starting with chicken and leak pie entrée with a bush chutney and paw paw salad, followed by a main course of succulent beef tenderloins, jacket potatoes, salads and roast vegetables, and desserts of pavlova, chocolate brownies and cheeses and dried fruits. The wines, as always on The Ghan and her sister train, the Indian Pacific, were sensational but the Wolf Blass Pinot Sparkling Chardonnay had an extra effervescence that night. After two days of mixing and mingling, I was surrounded by familiar faces, and the sense of joie de vivre and bonhomie was infectious. People were dancing, singing, riding the resident camels, watching a blacksmith at work and exploring the beautiful stone buildings of the historic telegraph station. Sylvia from Barcelona, one of my new friends, had taken the opportunity to fly to Uluru for the day, an optional extra offered on The Ghan. She was ecstatic about the experience, something I’ll hopefully do on my next trip to Australia. Later in the evening, as the stars began to twinkle in the clearest sky in years, an astronomer named Dan gave us a guided tour of the night sky. Armed with a powerful laser beam, he pointed out the Southern Cross, Milky Way, Saturn, Pluto, Neptune, Mars, Venus and many of the constellations. Peppered with inimitable Aussie humour, it was informative and highly entertaining. Before the night was over, I strolled around the station and learned about the obstacles faced by pioneer Sir Charles Todd and his team in constructing the Overland Telegraph Line that linked Australia to the world. The 2900km line extended from Port Augusta in South Australia, to Palmerston (now Darwin) in the Northern Territory, along a route closely following that of explorer John McDouall Stuart. Construction of the line with its 36,000 poles began in 1871 and was completed in just 23 months, opening in August 1872. It linked with an underwater cable network to London, meaning that communications that had once taken 120 days to arrive by ship now took only 48 hours. The Alice Springs Telegraph Station was established in 1871 and was one of 12 along the line. The station operated 24 hours a day and was basically self-sufficient, relying on provisions arriving from the south only once a year. Sheep, goats, cattle and their own vegetable garden ensured adequate food and the blacksmith made much of their equipment. The station ceased operation in 1932 when it was replaced by more modern facilities in town. Since its closure, the station has been used as an education centre for part-aboriginal children from 1932-42; wartime army base during World War 2; and an aboriginal reserve from 1945-1963. The barracks, post and telegraph office, Morse code machines, station master’s residence and kitchen, and outbuildings such as the harness, buggy shed, battery room, and shoeing yard were fascinating. I enjoyed reading about the camel trains that carted supplies from the railhead at Oodnadatta to Alice Springs before the railway was completed in 1929. The trip took two weeks, each camel carrying 250kg. Caravans of 50 camels were a regular occurrence delivering supplies to the station. What an awesome sight that would have been. There’s still a registered, operational post office at the station and all mail posted in the original red postbox is stamped with the Alice Springs Telegraph Station Commemorative Franking Stamp. Back on The Ghan, my brain and senses were so over-stimulated by the events and sights of the day, I expected to have trouble getting to sleep that night but the rocking motion of the train lulled me to slumber-land in no time. No doubt the chocolate fudge on my pillow from Aaron helped too. We had another early start the following day for our Coober Pedy excursions so I needed the rest. To be continued . . FACTBOX: * The Ghan Expedition is a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. Justine travelled courtesy of international rail specialists Rail Plus and Great Southern Rail. * Visit <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/australia-by-rail/australias-great-train-journeys/the-ghan-expedition/ghan-expedition-prices-book.htm">Rail Plus</a> for more information on The Ghan and <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/">https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/</a> for other epic train adventures around the world. *A veteran of many rail journeys organised through Rail Plus, I’ve also travelled on the Indian Pacific (see my series of four stories here); and the <a href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/a-day-on-the-tranzalpine">TranzAlpine</a>. Rail Plus has a dedicated team of experts to advise you on Great Train Journeys all around the world including the <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/belmond-andean-explorer-peru/prices-info.htm">Belmond Andean Explorer</a> in Peru another epic train journey that’s on my to-do list. The trip traverses some of the most magnificent scenery in the world - from Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire; crossing the highest plains of the Andes; to the reflective beauty of Lake Titicaca; the vast Colca Canyon and the city centre of Arequipa, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

International Travel

Under the spell of The Ghan

Justine Tyerman boards The Ghan, the famous transcontinental train, from Darwin to Adelaide. Here is the first of a four-part series about her journey. The sleek silver Ghan, with the twin bright red diesel-electric locomotives throbbing at her prow, was a magnificent sight at Darwin’s Berrimah Railway Station as coaches and taxis arrived with 285 excited passengers ready to embark on our great train adventure from Darwin to Adelaide. We were about to travel through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia, a 2979km journey spread over four days and three nights. The sheer size, length and spectacle of the 903m, 38-carriage, 1700 tonne train set my heart pounding. I instantly fell under the spell of this iconic train originally named the Afghan Express after the 19th century Afghan cameleers who helped blaze a trail through the country’s remote interior. Although construction began in 1878, it wasn't until 2004 that the last section of the railway track from Alice Springs to Darwin was finally completed. The locomotives and the carriages all proudly bear the emblem of an Afghan riding a camel. My Gold Service cabin with ensuite bathroom was mid-ships so the walk with my small wheelie case was manageable in the tropical heat but those at the extremities of the train were shuttled in style. <img style="width: 375px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821396/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/7c7198d49e814601b592acf4840077e3" /> My ensuite bathroom with lovely Appelles bath and body products. My hospitality attendant Aaron greeted me with a beaming smile and soon after appeared in my cabin to chat about what excursions I wanted to do during the days ahead. “All of them,” I said, unable to choose from the fabulous selection available each day. Having done the excursions, Aaron helped me come to a decision in no time. Train manager Bruce then welcomed us all aboard via the in-cabin radio which also broadcast an excellent commentary and a series of stories about the places, events and people along the route. Restaurant manager Nick popped by to discuss my preferred dining times in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant. The cuisine on The Ghan and her sister The Indian Pacific, a trip I completed in June, is as legendary as the history of these great train journeys. Not to mention the beverages … A glass of champagne mysteriously found its way into my hand as the massive train slid so smoothly from the station, I was only aware we were moving by watching the people waving on the platform slowly disappear from view. A toast to The Ghan seemed a fitting way to celebrate the departure of such a majestic train on another epic journey across the continent. The Ghan has a presence, history and grandeur like no other and to be finally embarking on the trip sent bubbles of excitement through my veins. They matched the effervescence in my glass. <img style="width: 333.3333333333333px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821395/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/bfe4305a9cd6419fa6045699e220b978" /> A toast to The Ghan seems a fitting way to celebrate the departure of such a majestic train on our epic journey across the continent. “This is the life,” I thought as I settled into my super-comfortable cabin and watched the Northern Territory countryside flicker by. Tall termite mounds like cylindrical chimneys scattered the bushy terrain which had been recently scorched in a controlled burn-off. The ant-like insects build amazingly clever dwellings for themselves with a central vent for air-conditioning. They devour an enormous quality of matter and return all the nutrients to the earth. The structures are aligned north-south to catch the sun. You learn all sorts of fascinating things by listening to the commentary on The Ghan. Soon after, we crossed the broad Elizabeth River and it was lunchtime. I dined in the ornate Queen Adelaide Restaurant on tropical chicken salad with fresh mango, flat beans, red onion, bamboo shoots, macadamia, lotus root, coriander and mesclun with lime pepper dressing, followed by a divine mango parfait with wild berry salsa. White tablecloths, fine china, waiters, wine … and that was just a light lunch. Travelling solo, Nick seated me with a variety of different people at every meal. On this occasion I lunched with three highly-entertaining Australian widows, one of whom knew a family from my hometown of Gisborne, New Zealand. Such a coincidence. As we chatted, we travelled through sparsely-vegetated hilly terrain cut by dry river beds, and rocky outcrops as though it had rained massive boulders. Unlike the Indian Pacific where there were hours of on-train time to daydream and relax, the daily excursions on The Ghan Expedition took up the bulk of the daytime hours. Early afternoon, we arrived at the Northern Territory town of Katherine to be met by coaches waiting to take us on a variety of excursions. Following Aaron’s advice, I chose a cruise and hike in two of the 13 gorges on the Katherine River in the 292,000-hectare Nitmiluk National Park. We boarded barges and cruised slowly up a spectacular steep-sided, rocky sandstone gorge carved by the Katherine River over millions of years. The commentary of our skipper-guide Sam added wonderful layers of meaning and history to the experience. Nitmiluk means ‘cicada country’ to the indigenous Jawoyn people, she said. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="/nothing.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/9a899824b5844b6381ffc5b4cb074710" /><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821397/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/9a899824b5844b6381ffc5b4cb074710" /> Cruising the Katherine River in the spectacular Nitmiluk Gorge. “Listen and you’ll hear the buzzing sound, especially in the evening,” Sam explained. She also pointed out huge gashes in the rocks on both sides of the river indicating fault lines, and trees like the paperbark with uses such as cooking foil and the larruk with anti-inflammatory and insect repellent properties. The white sandy beaches alongside the river looked like idyllic spots for picnics and swims until Sam drew our attention to the signs: “Crocodile nesting area – do not enter.” They’re mainly freshwater crocs here, not the monster ‘salties’ I’d seen in Darwin, but you still wouldn’t want to get anywhere near them. Thereafter I imagined I saw many crocodiles submerged in the river, but they were “probably rockodiles” according to Sam. The kayakers we passed on the river must have been incredibly brave or foolhardy – I couldn’t decide which. <img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821398/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/050daa96945643b9a174632cd393abda" /> Kayakers on the Katherine River near a croc nesting beach. Turning my attention upwards while keeping my arms well clear of the water, I was transfixed by the staggering height of the sheer cliffs on either side of our barge, reaching 60 to 100m high, depending on the depth of the river. The Katherine rises up to 9-10 metres during times of flood – the extreme sideways lean of the trees are an indication of the strength of the current. Today the river was so low we had to hike between the two gorges, boarding another barge on the other side. Between the gorges, Sam pointed out aboriginal paintings etched in the rock walls high above us, still intact after thousands of years. Some indigenous art in the region dates back 40,000 years, the oldest known art forms on the planet. <img style="width: 333.3333333333333px; height: 500px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821399/image_.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/65609f519a0f409b9cdcff88e5259132" /> Aboriginal paintings etched in the rock walls are still intact after thousands of years. As we neared a deep pool in the upper reaches of the second gorge, Sam told us a Dreamtime story of the Jawoyn people. “According to legend, Bolung, the rainbow serpent, carved the gorge in his own image then laid to rest in the 40m deep pool right below us. “There’s a whirlpool here and Jawoyn people won’t swim, fish or drink water from the pool for fear of a flood or other calamity. “The serpent is one of few common threads in aboriginal culture. Indigenous people in the Flinders Ranges area have a similar story.” Sam also explained the kinship system of the aboriginal people whereby a skin name is handed down by your mother meaning those of the same name cannot marry. The penalties for breaking the rules are severe – a spear to the back of the legs. We passed by an impressive towering rock known as Jedda Rock after the 1955 Australian-made movie of the same name, the first feature film to star aboriginal actors. The rocks in the Katherine Gorge are around 1.6 billion years old, Sam explained. As we neared the end of the cruise, I spotted a large cage on the water’s edge. “It’s a croc trap,” said Sam just in case we had forgotten we were in crocodile country. Jay, a cheery Jawoyn lad with a huge smile shouted “Boh boh” to us as he tethered the barge to the jetty and we disembarked. The Jawoyn don’t say “Goodbye”, they say “Boh boh – See ya later”. A huge plume of smoke threatened to obliterate the sunset as we bused back to the train. A controlled burn was taking place somewhere in the distance, turning the sun into a fiery red ball in the western sky. Later, as I emerged wet and drippy from the shower, I discovered we were actually travelling right through the fire, hot and red and fiery with flames leaping up trees and lots of smoke. It was really dramatic. Travelling through an Aussie bush fire, courtesy of The Ghan. That evening, I just had to try the crocodile sausage entrée with a lemon aspen sauce on the dinner menu. Having been warned by my Aussie mates that croc was bland, I found it surprisingly tasty. Sticking with exotic, I had an excellent chickpea saffron dahl served with pickled okra and basmati rice as a main course, and yummy ginger and macadamia nut pudding with caramel sauce and coconut ice-cream for dessert. As I snuggled into my comfy bed beautifully-made by Aaron with crisp white linen in the air-conditioned comfort of my cosy cabin, I looked back over the photos I’d taken that day. The grandeur of the Katherine Gorge was quite overwhelming. The deeply-furrowed, weathered old faces of the rocks towering above the river gave me a powerful sense of the ancientness and dignity of the land. Truly one of the Australia’s most stunning natural wonders. FACTBOX: * The Ghan Expedition is a 2979km four-day, three-night train journey through the ‘Red Centre’ of Australia from Darwin to Adelaide or vice versa *Justine travelled courtesy of international rail specialists Rail Plus and Great Southern Rail. * Visit <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/australia-by-rail/australias-great-train-journeys/the-ghan-expedition/ghan-expedition-prices-book.htm">https://www.railplus.co.nz/australia-by-rail/australias-great-train-journeys/the-ghan-expedition/ghan-expedition-prices-book.htm</a> for more information on The Ghan and <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/">https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/</a> for other epic train adventures around the world. *A veteran of many rail journeys organised through Rail Plus, I’ve also travelled on the Indian Pacific (see my series of <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/domestic-travel/what-it-s-like-travelling-across-australia-on-board-the-indian-pacific">four stories</a>); and the <a href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/a-day-on-the-tranzalpine">TranzAlpine</a>. *Rail Plus has a dedicated team of experts to advise you on Great Train Journeys all around the world including The Deccan Odyssey between Mumbai and New Delhi in India <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/deccan-odyssey/prices-info.htm">https://www.railplus.co.nz/great-train-journeys/deccan-odyssey/prices-info.htm</a> another epic journey I'm dreaming of doing some day. The eight-day, seven-night journey recaptures the pomp and pageantry of India's royal past visiting beaches, sea forts and world heritage cave frescoes of Western India and the Deccan plateau including the city of Goa.

International Travel

A day on the TranzAlpine

Justine Tyerman survives a tornado on the TranzAlpine ... The excitement was at fever pitch as the passengers filed into the spacious carriages of the TranzAlpine train and found their seats beside the huge panoramic windows. On the dot of 8.15am on a bright, cloudless, spring morning, the train glided smoothly out of the station. The twin diesel locomotives pulling the 10 or so carriages quickly gathered speed as we whizzed through suburban and industrial Christchurch at the start of our five-hour journey from the Pacific Ocean on the east coast of the South Island to the West Coast town of Greymouth on the Tasman Sea. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821376/the-diesel-locomotive-one-of-two-that-pull-the-tranzalpine.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/0b27eb4ddbc4431c8b1b75f7ae69ec34" /> The diesel locomotive, one of two, that pull the TranzAlpine. Most of the passengers were contented to sit in their comfortable seats watching the ever-changing landscape flicker by but I joined a handful of hardy, puffer-jacket-clad photographers who braved the blustery, dusty and decidedly chilly conditions in the open-air observation car at the rear of the train. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821375/open-air-viewing-carriage.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/8ac591c42fb54b13bfc28f2f49b40f5b" /> Justine wearing many layers in the open-air viewing carriage. The lack of windows certainly enabled photos to be taken without the impediment of reflective glass but the constant rocking and rolling motion resulted in more than a few blurry shots and random views of my boots and the ceiling. Navigating my way around a forest of selfie sticks without being clonked on the head was another challenge. A veteran of many train trips overseas, this was my first such journey in New Zealand and as one of the few Kiwis onboard, I felt inordinately proud of my own land. The grass on the Canterbury Plains seemed greener than ever and the lambs even more frolicksome. There were squeals of delight as foals, calves, alpacas and fawns came briefly into view looking impossibly cute in paddocks alongside the train. Were they placed there deliberately to enchant the passengers? If so, it worked. Giant irrigation lines, some up to a kilometre long, stood ready to pour water onto the pastures as soon as the summer heat set in. The Main Divide was visible in the distance, a seemingly impenetrable fortress of mountains. We’ve travelled to the West Coast via Arthur’s Pass by road a number of times, but after the rural town of Springfield, the TranzAlpine took a completely different route, leaving me feeling quite disorientated. As the train approached the foothills of the Southern Alps, the stunning aqua-turquoise Waimakariri River came into view to a chorus of ‘wows’ and a frantic scramble for cameras by the overseas passengers. The train climbed high above the Waimakariri, crossing the river on steel girder viaducts so high I felt dizzy looking down into the gorge. There are 15 short tunnels and four viaducts, including the 72-metre-high Staircase Viaduct, as the TranzAlpine ascends the Torlesse Range <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821379/waimakariri-river.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/e34def7056e541e1a4e8389c4a308e79" /> The Waimakariri River far below as the train crosses a viaduct. The landscape changed again as the train wound its way along the broad upland plains of Craigieburn where the braids of the Waimakariri spread across a wide silver shingle river bed. The alps, so distant at the start, were now almost close enough to touch. The black-green forested lower reaches of the mountains were a startling contrast to the snowy white peaks and pinnacles above. Lake Pearson sparkled in the spring sunshine and the golden tussocks, tossed by the breeze as the train sped by, were vibrant and glossy. The summit of Mt Bisner looked as though it had been freshly iced, the snow cover was so deep and smooth. I’d like to have leapt off the train to watch as it crossed the iconic, often-photographed long, low bridge over the glacier-fed Waimakariri, heading towards Arthur’s Pass. It’s such a dramatic sight as it spans the river against the spectacular backdrop of the alps. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821373/arthurs-pass.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/4098f785d5474ae0bcd26a369a4390d1" /> Stunning mountain scenery as the train approaches Arthur's Pass. The TranzAlpine stops briefly at the village of Arthur’s Pass (740m above sea level), a popular hub for serious climbers, hikers, snow sports enthusiasts and nature-lovers. Last time I visited, it was snowing heavily, and the mountain tops were shrouded in mist but on this occasion, the little settlement was basking in the warm sunshine under a cloudless, blue sky. A handful of fit-looking trampers disembarked at the pass, laden with heavy packs and climbing boots, no doubt heading into the mountainous national park to engage in rugged outdoor activities. I was sorely tempted to join them. The hiking and climbing trails there are epic. There’s also a backcountry ski field nearby, Temple Basin, where I skied in my younger days. The field is largely unchanged today with ungroomed slopes, three rope tows and a cosy lodge. The timely appearance of a couple of kea, New Zealand’s comical alpine parrot, created a frenzy of selfie sticks among the overseas passengers. Little did they know how mischievous these entertaining birds can be. Many a sandwich has been tweaked out of my hand by a sly kea. They’re also particularly partial to the rubber on windscreen wipers and ski racks. The next phase of the trip took us through the 8.5km Otira Tunnel under the Southern Alps, the backbone of the South Island. The tunnel, completed in 1923, was the final stage of the TranzAlpine railway which began in the 1880s. When it opened, it was the longest rail tunnel in the British Empire and one of the longest in the world. The outdoor viewing carriage and café car were closed as a safety precaution as the train slowly descended from the pass at a steep gradient of 1:33. I wish I’d made it to the café beforehand because the tunnel was the only time during the five-hour trip that I could prise my eyes away from the stunning scenery. Emerging from darkness into light, we found ourselves in a different world. The West Coast never fails to intrigue with its misty rainforests and snow-capped mountains. The train travelled alongside the Otira, Taramakau, Arnold and Grey Rivers as we made our way towards the Tasman Sea, trundling through towns with colourful pasts that sprang up overnight in the gold rush of the 1860s, and other settlements associated with timber milling, coal mining, the Cobb and Co stagecoach and the construction of the road, railway and tunnel. As we passed through Otira, population 45, I happened to be taking a rare break from the viewing car, sitting in my luxurious seat listening to the excellent commentary. Former railway-workers’ houses were lined up neatly along the roadside. They were a hardy lot to live and work in a region with five metres of rain a year and only a few hours of sunshine in the winter. I chuckled as I heard about the ingenious way the local policeman dealt with thefts of coal from the railyards at Otira. He devised small explosives, painted them black, hid them among the coal bins at the station, and when a chimney blew up, he went to the house and arrested the culprits, no doubt caught black-handed. That was the only disadvantage of the perfect weather. I missed 95 percent of the commentary because I was outside in the viewing car most of the time. We skirted lovely Lake Brunner, tranquil and sombre under the slate sky, and the village of Moana with its quaint Kiwi baches. The previous summer we had camped there and spotted the rare whio or blue duck in a tributary. The fishing and walking trails are outstanding, well worth a stopover. You can catch the TranzAlpine on to Greymouth or back to Christchurch the next day … or whenever you are ready. The terrain opens out from Lake Brunner and after a sharp left turn at Stillwater, the train travels along the Grey River into Greymouth … just in time for the lunch I missed while ogling the scenery. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821378/the-tranzalpine-at-greymouth-railway-station.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/3479a08c4e88490294860dedbd919226" /> The TranzAlpine at Greymouth Railway Station. Far from grey, the West Coast’s largest city was bathed in sunshine so after a quick snack and a cool beer at the historic Speight’s Ale House, I strolled along the river bank walkway making mental notes of future hikes and bike trips. I stopped at a beautiful riverside memorial to pay tribute to the coal miners who have lost their lives in a series of disasters in the region: 1896, Brunner mine, 65 dead; 1926, Dobson mine, nine dead; 1967, Strongman mine, 19 dead; 2010, Pike River mine, 29 dead. I vividly remember the Pike River tragedy which is still fresh in the minds of all West Coasters. <img style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821377/the-memorial-at-greymouth-to-the-coal-miners-who-lost-their-lives-in-mines-on-the-west-coast.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/b416da7e6e784df5852bb52897a42098" /> The memorial at Greymouth to the coal miners who lost their lives in mines on the West Coast. A plaque near the train station tells the story of the 1864 goldrush which attracted 29,000 miners to the region and saw three million ounces of gold extracted. The text also reminds New Zealanders: “Our gold financed this country’s growth. Westland’s coal fired the furnaces that industrialised New Zealand and our timber helped build the nation.” Greymouth is an ideal place to purchase pounamu, also known as New Zealand jade or greenstone. Found in many places on the West Coast, part of a UNESCO World Heritage site known in Maori as Te Wahipounamu, the Place of Greenstone, it is treasured for its spiritual significance, strength, durability and beauty. Most of my fellow passengers headed off to explore the magnificent West Coast glaciers and beaches while I reboarded the TranzAlpine an hour later for what I expected to be a slightly more relaxed return trip seated in my comfy armchair. But the landscape, transformed by the long shadows of late afternoon and a dazzling sunset in the evening, demanded that I return to the viewing car for another blustery episode, dashing from one side to the other to get the best views. But this time I was almost alone, thanks to the near-zero wind chill. And I did find time for a pinot noir with tasty lamb shanks for dinner. My husband, who met me at the station, expressed surprise at my red cheeks, dishevelled appearance, double puffer jackets, gloves and woolly hat, assuming I’d spent the day in the lap of luxury sipping bubbly and dining on fine food while languidly gazing at the scenery through the panoramic windows. “You look like you’ve been in a tornado,” he said. “Yes, nine or 10 hours standing in an outside carriage of a train travelling at around 100km per hour can have that effect,” I replied. “No seats left inside then?” he asked. “Plenty … comfy, warm, luxurious, big panoramic windows, great commentary.” He just shook his head … Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of Rail Plus international rail specialists, and Great Journeys of New Zealand. FACTBOX: <ul> <ul> <li>The TranzAlpine scenic train trip is a daily return service in New Zealand’s South Island between Christchurch on the East Coast and Greymouth on the West Coast, or vice versa, covering a distance of 223 kilometres in just under five hours.</li> <li>Visit <a href="https://www.railplus.co.nz/new-zealand-by-rail/tranzalpine/prices-book.htm">www.railplus.co.nz/new-zealand-by-rail/tranzalpine/prices-book.htm</a></li> <li>for more information on this and other epic train adventures around the world, or phone 09 377 5420</li> <li>A veteran of many rail journeys organised through Rail Plus, I’ve also travelled on the <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/domestic-travel/what-it-s-like-travelling-across-australia-on-board-the-indian-pacific">Indian Pacific</a>; the <a href="http://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/on-the-unesco-world-heritage-bernina-express-from-switzerland-to-italy">Bernina Express</a>, the Golden Pass and Jungfraujoch.</li> <li>Rail Plus has a dedicated team of experts to advise you on Great Train Journeys all around the world including the famous Orient Express. </li> <li>The magnificent <a href="https://www.railplus.com.au/canada-by-rail/independent-packages/snow-train-to-the-rockies/prices-info.htm">Snow Train to the Rockies</a> is next on my list. </li> </ul> </ul>

Domestic Travel

At the source of history: Dart River, Aspiring National Park

My fingers traced the cool contours of the mauri pounamu touchstone. The massive chunk of pounamu (jade), centrepiece at the Dart River Jet visitor centre in Glenorchy, was alternately smooth and rough in texture. His name was Te Matua o Manatu meaning "precious reminder from the throat of the reclining giant, Te Koroka". He stood on a pathway where ancient Maori once trekked, searching for pounamu. Eight hundred years ago, Maori were the only people here – first the Waiaha tribe, then Ngati Mamoe and now Ngai Tahu. It was here that Maori first discovered the home of the pounamu giant, Te Koroka. High in the mountains, they found him resting with a seam of pounamu tumbling from his gaping mouth. The giant became famed throughout the whole country for his pounamu, treasured equally for its utility and its pearly allure. Trade, economy and culture were built around this precious resource. Then with the arrival of Europeans some 200 years ago, Maori lost their connection to Te Koroka. When the first European explorers encountered these shores, they too heard tales of the celebrated source of pounamu at the head of Lake Whakatipu-wai-maori (Lake Wakatipu.) Preserved in memory, song and oral tradition, the exact location was unclear until the pounamu taonga (treasure) was rediscovered on Pekerakitahi (Mt Earnslaw) in 1970. This sacred pristine source of pounamu is now fiercely protected by the Ngai Tahu tribe as the tangata whenua (people of the land), and the state. He is a lasting remnant of ages past, one that evokes the spirits of the ancestors, the first people to travel these ancient pounamu trails. The throb of the Hamilton jet engines in the distance disturbed my contemplation and brought me tumbling back to the present. We were about to set off on an expedition up the Te Awa Whakatipu (the Dart River), in Te Wahipounamu, a Unesco World Heritage Area. The day ahead would be richer armed with my knowledge of Te Koroka and Te Matua o Manatu. <img src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/9/j/n/s/u/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.19jhxq.png/1454620665260.jpg" alt="Take a jet boat ride to the heart of the Mount Aspiring National Park." class="photoborder"/> Take a jet boat ride to the heart of the Mount Aspiring National Park. Image credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism After a quiet start to the day, the high-octane exhilaration of the jetboat ride set my heart pounding and pulse racing. I sat on the edge of my seat, enthralled as our jetboat driver Daniel took us ever deeper into the Aspiring National Park and the southern reaches of the Main Divide, weaving our way up strands of the braided river at the foot of tall mountains named after Greek gods - Pluto, Nox, Amphion, Chaos, Poseidon. The beautiful silvery face of Pekerakitahi was wet with tears of melting snow. My eyes searched the mountain and clear waters of the Dart, hoping for a glimpse of pounamu. I convinced myself I could see the elusive green stone. I was high on negative ions, intoxicated with the sweet taste of the air, the shock of the ice-cold spray whenever Daniel performed one of his heart-stopping 360s, the dazzling turquoise waters of the Rockburn Chasm where a giant's sword had sliced a deep gash in the side of a mountain, and the throaty roar of the twin Hamilton jet engines. Encircled by craggy peaks with gleaming glaciers and wispy waterfalls, I wanted to speed onwards to the head waters of the Dart but after 90 minutes of pure adrenalin, we were off-loaded on the side of the river with our Ultimate Nature Experience guide Pam. As the boats thundered away, disappearing in a plume of spray, I was momentarily stunned by the sudden silence and abrupt change of pace. <img src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/9/j/m/0/d/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.19jhxq.png/1454620665260.jpg" alt="Take a Dart River Funyak through the Rockburn Chasm." class="photoborder"/> Take a Dart River Funyak through the Rockburn Chasm. Image credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism We followed Pam up a shingle bank and entered another world, a forest wilderness with no tracks or signposts. The bright sunlight, towering mountains and silver river were replaced by the tall, gaunt trees and diffuse, mottled light of the beech forest where the only sounds were bird calls, gurgling streams, and the muted footfall of boots on the spongy leaf-litter carpet. Pam knew the forest like the back of her hand, retracing the steps of early saw millers and prospectors. She led us along the route of a tramway built in the 1920s to transport logs out of the forest for the construction of bridges, buildings and car and bus bodies. A wheel and some rusty kerosene tins were all that remained of what was once a busy thoroughfare. We also came across the debris of a gelignite explosion where a hopeful prospector had blasted away a cliff face in the 1950s in hope of finding tungsten, the metallic element of scheelite, an ore in demand during both World Wars and the Korean War for its metal-hardening properties. His identity is a well-kept secret because there are family members still living at Glenorchy, Pam said. Our lunch venue was sublime. Sitting on a log in the warm winter sunshine, munching hearty sandwiches by the remote Sylvan Lake in the company of cheeky South Island robins as far superior to any fancy gourmet cafe. <img src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/9/j/m/0/e/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.19jhxq.png/1454620665260.jpg" alt="A South Island robin stops by our lunch spot at Lake Sylvan." class="photoborder"/> A South Island robin stops by our lunch spot at Lake Sylvan. Image credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism It was a day of extreme contrasts – the mauri pounamu touchstone grounded me in history. Daniel and his twin Hamiltons administered a hefty shot of adrenalin while the majestic glacier-gouged mountains enthralled me. The peace and solitude of the beech forest soothed me and the simple picnic lunch beside a pristine alpine lake delighted me. Late afternoon, Pam drove us back along the magnificent 46km lakeside road to Queenstown, rated one of the top ten scenic drives in the world by Conde Naste and Lonely Planet. The mountains were under a cloud shroud when we drove to Glenorchy early in the morning but they were dazzlingly clear on our return trip. Tourists on the road that day got a bonus – there were two of everything, mountains upright in their usual position and upside down in the looking-glass lake. It made my Kiwi heart soar with pride. <img src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/9/j/m/0/f/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.19jhxq.png/1454620665260.jpg" alt="Sunshine peaks through as we make our way along an avenue of native red beech trees." class="photoborder"/> Sunshine peaks through as we make our way along an avenue of native red beech trees. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Fact box: Getting there: Air New Zealand Staying there: <a href="http://www.crowneplazaqueenstown.co.nz/" target="_blank">crowneplazaqueenstown</a> * Dart River Jet, the only operator on the Dart River, and Guided Walks New Zealand, the only company permitted access to the Ultimate Nature Experience wilderness area, are both owned by Ngai Tahu Tourism. * The Ultimate Nature Experience is a flexible 4 to 7km easy to moderate hike on unformed trails. Transport departs from Queenstown at 8am with pick-ups from all Queenstown accommodation. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Ngai Tahu Tourism. Written by Justine Tyerman. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a>

Domestic Travel

Exploring the land of the green fairy in Switzerland

I stepped off the train in the little Swiss village of Môtiers in the Val-de-Travers region of the Jura Mountains fully expecting to see a host of fairies... little green ones. For this picturesque part of the Swiss Jura is known as the land of the green fairy, la fée verte, the birthplace of the infamous, oft-vilified, once-banned, powerful spirit, absinthe. The railway station and village in the Jura Mountains where we disembarked looked as neat and typically-picturesque as any other Swiss village, but our guide Lukas assured us that we had stepped into an enchanted land, la Pays de l'Absinthe. I listened for the flutter of wings and peered among the trees for a glimpse of green... to no avail. However, Lukas said we had to first partake of the spirit before we could see the spirit. The legend goes that those who over-indulge in absinthe hallucinate and see green fairies. All would be revealed at la Maison de l'Absinthe, a museum dedicated to the liquor regarded by its devotees as a "sacred libation". The history of absinthe, a high-alcohol anise-flavoured spirit distilled from the wormwood plant, is cloaked in mystery, intrigue, romance, secrecy, rumour and scandal - factors the Val-de-Travers plays to maximum advantage. Through the ages as far back as the ancient Greeks and Egyptians, artemisia absinthium (wormwood) was used as a remedy for stomach, back, dental, throat and menstrual pain, as well as a panacea for hair loss, mental illness, gout, rheumatism, loss of eyesight, protection against aliens and a cure for malaria. Quite an impressive list. <img width="600" height="NaN" src="http://static.stuff.co.nz/1435712560/208/12113208.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Absinthe artefacts and recipes from the 19th century. Photo: Justine Tyerman In a small town of Couvet in the Val-de-Travers, the first recipe for making absinthe into an alcoholic drink was created in 1797 and the first distillery opened in the valley in 1798. It became wildly popular in the 1800s and developed a cult-like following with the art nouveau set such as Vincent van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec, Charles Baudelaire, Paul-Marie Verlaine, Arthur Rimbaud and Guy de Maupassant. Some of them even became seriously addicted to it. Today, Marilyn Manson is one of its most famous devotees. However, over the years, absinthe garnered a wicked reputation and was eventually banned in Switzerland in 1910 for allegedly driving people insane and causing them to commit heinous crimes. The lobbyists against absinthe included religious groups that regarded it as dangerously addictive, psychoactive and hallucinogenic, and also beer, schnapps and wine producers, who resented its extreme popularity. The distillation of absinthe continued in clandestine stills in the Val-de-Travers, where authorities largely turned a blind eye and blocked nose (the scent of anise wafted on the breeze for miles) to the practice until it was eventually legalised again in the valley in 2004, albeit with strict regulations. Equipment used in a still that was once concealed behind a false wall in a cottage is on display at the museum along with examples of the ingenious means used to smuggle the product into other countries – hidden in pineapple tins. <img width="600" height="NaN" src="http://static.stuff.co.nz/1435716174/010/12114010.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Equipment used in a still that was once concealed behind a false wall is on display at the museum. Photo: Justine Tyerman In the laboratory, we learned all about the production process and the ingredients used in absinthe recipes, some of which - wormwood, lemon balm, anise and mint - are grown in a garden there. The museum displays many fascinating antiques from the Belle Epoque (1870-1914) and a replica of a typical bistro, dedicated to the "heure verte" (the green hour), a time of the day between 5pm and 7pm when fashionable people met to socialise over a glass of absinthe. The mystique is perpetuated in an über-chic bar where 15 local varieties of absinthe are available for tasting and purchase. The cold blue-green back lighting and the rows of bottles with exotic labels add to the atmosphere of the experience. The age-old ritual is strictly adhered to in the pouring process. A sugar cube is placed on a slotted silver spoon on top of a crystal absinthe glass containing a measure of the spirit. Ice cold water is dripped over the sugar cube and into the glass where the water and absinthe combine to form an opaque milky blend, due to certain ingredients in the absinthe (especially fennel) reacting with the water. Striking the right balance between bitter and sweet is crucial, our guide says. <img width="600" height="NaN" src="http://static.stuff.co.nz/1435712212/137/12113137.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Guide Montserrat Kassamakov presents a bottle of absinthe at the bar at the Maison de l'Absinthe. Photo: Justine Tyerman I enjoyed a sip or two in a seriously-diluted form and saw no fairies, green or otherwise, but I'm sure some of the more adventurous members of our group saw whole hosts of supernatural creatures flitting through the woods. I loved the ritual and I'm tempted to introduce the "heure verte" concept to my friends in Gisborne . . . although we will probably stick to chardonnay. Ironically, the Maison de l'Absinthe occupies a former district courthouse, opened in 1750, where a number of illegal absinthe distillers were once hauled before a judge, convicted and jailed. * The Maison de l'Absinthe opened its doors in July 2014 and is one of 480 museums free to visit with a Swiss Travel Pass. It's well worth a look. Infobox <ul> <li>To learn more about Switzerland, visit <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/" target="_blank">myswitzerland.com</a>. Click on the transport link for information on the Swiss Travel Pass.</li> <li> Flights are available with Swiss International Air Lines. Go to <a href="http://www.swiss.com/" target="_blank">swiss.com</a> for details and prices.</li> <li>To stay at L'Hôtel Alpes et Lac in Neuchâtel, visit <a href="http://www.alpesetlac.ch/" target="_blank">alpesetlac.ch</a>.</li> <li>To find out more about Maison de l'Absinthe, go to <a href="http://www.maison-absinthe.ch/" target="_blank">maison-absinthe.ch/</a>.</li> </ul> TRAVEL TIP For ease of travel, buy a Swiss Travel Pass, which allows you to travel on all public transport in Switzerland - trains, boats and buses including the public transport networks of 75 towns and cities across the entire country. The Swiss Travel Pass (from three to 15 days) also allows free entry to more than 480 museums and gives holders 50 per cent off most of the magnificent mountain railways. There are many options, including the Swiss Travel Pass for Youth, which gives travellers under 26 years a 15 per cent discount and, best of all, children under 16 accompanied by a parent with a Swiss Travel Pass travel for free. Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of Switzerland Tourism. Written by Justine Tyerman. Republished with permission of <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a>

International Travel

Men in high heels: Tramping The Remarkables

My husband has never worn high heels before. He's always been extremely scathing about such silly footwear but on this occasion he thought they were practical and even enhanced his performance. Besides, the other two burly men in our party had donned high heels too so he would have felt left out without them. We were hiking uphill with snowshoes strapped to our tramping boots. Our feet were at a 90-degree angle to the slope thanks to a clever device which lifted the heels of our boots off the frame to the height of a reasonable stiletto. However, there was no mincing or prancing along in these high heels – the technique required a firm, deliberate stride engaging the rows of metal spikes on the soles into the hard-packed snow on the Remarkables. <img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/8/4/d/z/b/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.183tm8.png/1447969994454.jpg" alt="Lunch was simple but delicious." width="600" height="NaN" /> Lunch was simple but delicious. Image credit: Nigel Kerr The snowshoes were lightweight, high-tech models, much more streamlined than the cumbersome ones we had experimented with in Europe earlier in the year. The spikes ensured there was no slippage and with the addition of two height-adjustable walking poles, I felt entirely secure even negotiating quite steep slopes. A quick flick of the cleat engaged the high heel and saved our leg muscles. "Your calves will thank you for it later," said our guide, Shaun, who was practically sprinting up the slope despite carrying a full pack with lunch and snacks for our party of five, along with a spade and other emergency equipment.Once into the rhythm of the snowshoes, which took all of 20 seconds to master, I forgot about them. It was just like ordinary hiking but with a footprint the size of Sasquatch. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/8/4/d/z/f/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.183tm8.png/1447969994454.jpg" alt="The secret snow cave where groups take shelter when the weather turns nasty." /> The secret snow cave where groups take shelter when the weather turns nasty. Image credit: Nigel Kerr With every step the sound of the chairlifts, skiers and snowboarders faded and the grandeur of the mountainscape and the Wakatipu Basin unfolded. In a region where even superlatives fall woefully short, it's one of the most awe-inspiring of panoramas. Once we reached the remote, high-altitude Lake Alta cirque, the silence was sublime. The dead flat, smooth surface of the snow was the only indication there was a lake there at all. Shaun got out his spade and dug down through half a metre of snow to prove it . . . and to reassure us the ice was safe to walk on. With visions of cracking ice and plunging into frozen water, I had a strong urge to skirt around the lake edge but Shaun was one of those veteran outdoor Kiwi blokes who inspired total confidence. Still, I felt like a brave intrepid explorer setting off after him into the white wilderness. I expected to see wolves appear at any minute from behind the rocks. Our lunch spot was a rocky promontory just below the jagged jet black sawteeth of the Remarkables range, the reverse side of the iconic view you can see from Queenstown. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/8/4/d/z/k/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.183tm8.png/1447969994454.jpg" alt="'High heels' engaged, heading straight uphill on the Remarkables." /> 'High heels' engaged, heading straight uphill on the Remarkables. Image credit: Nigel Kerr Bathed in winter sunshine, we looked down on our tracks across the frozen teardrop lake as we munched on huge wedges of pumpkin bread sandwiches stuffed with chicken, brie, salad and relish. Simple fare but delicious.The only sounds were the whoops of exhilaration from an occasional extreme skier or snowboarder plummeting down the narrow chutes above us. And the squawks of the kea, the cheeky mountain parrot with its lethal hooked beak and vivid red plumage on the underside of the wings. One of our Aussie companions was a bright spark marketing man. As we chatted over lunch, he decided snowshoeing was a clumsy term so he came up with sniking - snow hiking – with a nod to Nike as a company that might like to rebrand the sport. My contribution was shnoeing. Not quite as marketable. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/8/4/d/z/e/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.183tm8.png/1447969994454.jpg" alt="The view from a lookout on the Remarkables." /> The view from a lookout on the Remarkables. Image credit: Nigel Kerr On the way down the mountain, we visited a secret snow cave where groups take shelter when the weather turns nasty or have lunch if it's too cold outside. Dug out under a huge jutting rock, it would hold eight to 10 people in cosy comfort. Shaun tailors the degree of difficulty of the expedition to suit the fitness of the group with some overseas visitors opting for a short play around in the snow and a photo opportunity and others climbing as far as the South Wye Saddle at 1950 metres. Ours was a serious workout. We covered about 6-8km with a climb of 300-400m reaching an elevation of 1900m at the Grand Couloir, a gully between Double and Single Cone, the latter being the highest point on the Remarkables Range at 2319m. The snowshoe concept appealed to the greenie in me. In a tourist town famous for its expensive, high-octane adventures, it's the ultimate accessible low-risk activity. Apart from the 35-minute van trip from Queenstown, there is no artificial means of propulsion. And you don't have to be a finely-tuned athlete or even particularly well co-ordinated to master the technique. The prerequisites are two functioning legs with feet attached, mild to moderate fitness depending on the steepness of the gradient you opt for, and the taste for a gentle, scenic adventure in the Great Outdoors. Written by Justine Tyerman, 30/05/18. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Ngai Tahu Tourism who own NZ Snowshoe. <a rel="noopener" href="http://www.ngaitahutourism.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.ngaitahutourism.co.nz</a>; <a rel="noopener" href="http://www.snowshoeing.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.snowshoeing.co.nz</a> The writer flew Air NZ from Auckland to Queenstown return. <a rel="noopener" href="http://www.airnewzealand.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.airnewzealand.co.nz</a> and stayed at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Queenstown <a rel="noopener" href="http://www.crowneplazaqueenstown.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.crowneplazaqueenstown.co.nz</a> Republished with permission of <a rel="noopener" href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a>

Domestic Travel

Basel: Switzerland's art and culture capital

The first thing I noticed about Basel is the absence of mountains, an unusual feature in a country dominated by big, bossy peaks that crowd your consciousness, and jostle and clamour for attention all the time. The landscape is gentler in the north-west corner of Switzerland than in the alpine areas, so there is time and energy to focus on quieter, more refined pursuits . . . without feeling the need to go hiking high peaks and yodelling every day. I love the alps but it's quite exhausting up there with all those 4000m-plus peaks yelling 'Look at me! Look at me!' An overdose of scenery that takes your breath away and causes heart palpitations is surely injurious to the health. Besides, I got tired of saying 'Wow!' every few minutes. After 10 days in the mountains, I was suffering massive sensory overload and found Basel delightfully leisurely and undemanding by comparison. And my heart, lungs and leg muscles enjoyed the respite too. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/y/h/r/x/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The bar at the hotel is a cosy spot for a cocktail." class="photoborder"/> The bar at the hotel is a cosy spot for a cocktail. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Basel is a graceful city dissected by the beautiful Rhine River which exerts a peaceful, tranquil influence on the compact metropolis of 200,000 people, Switzerland's third most populous city. The city is known as the art and culture capital of Switzerland. There are 40 museums within 37 square kilometres, making it an absolute paradise for art aficionados. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/y/h/r/z/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The suite dedicated to General Napoleon Bonaparte who lodged at the Les Trois Rois in 1797." class="photoborder"/> The suite dedicated to General Napoleon Bonaparte who lodged at the Les Trois Rois in 1797. Image credit: Justine Tyerman I visited two of them, the Fondation Beyeler and the Kunstmuseum, both world famous. I went to the Beyeler to see my favourite Monet. Sadly, it had moved on a few months earlier along with 50 other Monets but two masterpieces remained including the luminous six-metre-long Le bassin aux nymphéas, which had me utterly mesmerised. The lack of Monets meant I paid more attention to the excellent exhibition of the moment, Paul Klee, and his contribution to the development of abstract art in Europe. The central strands of his work are nature, architecture, music and written characters, as I discovered. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/y/i/t/c/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The Fondation Beyeler, a museum in Basel." class="photoborder"/> The Fondation Beyeler, a museum in Basel. Image credit: Justine Tyerman I also learned about the founders of the museum, celebrated art dealers Ernst and Hildy Beyeler, who assembled a collection of fine works of classical modernism over a period of 50 years. At the Kunstmuseum, I was introduced to Marc Chagall, a Russian-French artist of Belarusian Jewish origin. Chagall was torn between two worlds – his hometown of Vitebsk in Belorussia and Paris where he lived from 1911 until 1914. In this early creative phase he combined his recollections of Russian provincial life with iconic fragments of Paris, both evident in the stunning works on display. The city is the venue for one of the world's most important contemporary art fairs – Art Basel - founded in 1970 by Ernst Beyeler of Fondation Beyeler fame. The fair is held in June each year and brings the international art world together showing the works of over 4000 artists. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/y/i/t/e/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The spires of Basler Münster, (Basel Minster), a heritage site of national significance, is one of the city's main landmarks." class="photoborder"/> The spires of Basler Münster, (Basel Minster), a heritage site of national significance, is one of the city's main landmarks. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Our excellent local guide Philippe took us on a tour of the old town, among the best preserved in Europe, with its 'belle époque' mansions, quaint narrow alleyways, many fountains and statues. Basler Münster, (Basel Minster), a heritage site of national significance, is one of the city's main landmarks. The red sandstone architecture, coloured roof tiles and slim towers stand out on the horizon. Originally a Catholic cathedral and today a Reformed Protestant church, it was built between 1019 and 1500 in Romanesque and Gothic styles. The choristers were singing like angels when I went back later to have a closer look. The magnificent Basel Rathaus (Town Hall) dates back to the early 1500s.The paintings on the façade and sculptures in the courtyard and clock tower are astounding. Opposite the Rathaus, a colourful street market sells flowers and fresh produce every Saturday morning. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/y/i/t/d/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The Rhine River exerts a peaceful, tranquil influence over the city of Basel." class="photoborder"/> The Rhine River exerts a peaceful, tranquil influence over the city of Basel. Image credit: Basel Tourismus The Tinguely Fountain, created in 1977, is made up of water-spouting machine parts set in an enormous pool of water on the site of the old city theatre. The nine iron sculptures are in constant motion and 'talk' to each other like the actors and dancers who once performed on this spot. Philippe showed us some quirky sights too. The Rock Wall in downtown Basel is a massive mural dedicated to classic rock legends like Janis Joplin, Mick Jagger, Jimi Hendrix, The Who, Grateful Dead, Jethro Tull, Madonna, Pink Floyd, Bob Marley and many others. The Beatle's album cover 'Abbey Road' is integrated into the design with George Harrison, Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and John Lennon walking the across that famous pedestrian crossing. We walked down the street where, on April 1st 1984, Basler Radio announced a ski race between World Cup stars Bernhard Russi and Andy Wenzel on the Spalenberg in the middle of the city. It was mid-spring so listeners assumed it was an April Fools' joke - however snow was carted by truck from the ski resort Langenbruck and the slalom race actually did take place. That was the joke. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/w/o/o/e/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="The courtyard of the Basel Rathaus." class="photoborder"/> The courtyard of the Basel Rathaus. Image credit: Basel Tourismus Philippe described with great gusto, the three-day madness that descends upon the city during Basler Fasnacht, Switzerland's largest carnival. The event dates back to the medieval tradition of fasting at Lent before Easter and involves colourful street parades, costumes, music, and much revelry. Getting around Basel is a dream thanks to the super-efficient tram network that criss-crosses the city. Guests staying in hotels are issued with a mobility card which provides free public transport. From January 1, the card gave guests free ferry transport and half-price city tours and museum and theatre tickets, a real drawcard for tourists. The trams even run to France and Germany and at the Dreiländereck (the three countries' corner), the countries intersect so you can hop from one to the other. In a city imbued with such history, art and culture, it was fitting to stay at the iconic Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, The Three Kings, a museum and art gallery in its own right. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/w/o/2/k/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="A rooftop Jacuzzi belonging to a suite at Les Trois Rois." class="photoborder"/> A rooftop Jacuzzi belonging to a suite at Les Trois Rois. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Les Trois Rois is the epitome of elegance and old-world style, rich in history and heritage. The entire hotel and all its 101 rooms and suites are furnished with precious antiques, chandeliers and paintings. No two rooms are the same and the suites are sumptuous. There's a suite dedicated to General Napoleon Bonaparte who lodged at the Les Trois Rois in 1797 and was honoured with a glittering state reception. My suite was inhabited 120 years ago by Dr Theodor Herzl who laid foundations for the modern state of Israel while in Basel. A plaque on the wall dated 1897 shows him leaning on the balcony railing, gazing at the Rhine. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/w/o/o/8/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="Magnificent chandeliers are a feature at Les Trois Rois." class="photoborder"/> Magnificent chandeliers are a feature at Les Trois Rois. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Legend and myth trace the origins of the hotel back to a meeting of three kings in 1026, while historical records first refer to 'The Drei Könige' (The Three Kings) gentlemen's inn in 1681, making it among the oldest, if not the oldest, city hotel in Europe. Rebuilt in 1844 as a grand hotel, and painstakingly renovated in 2006, the name is a reference to the 'Three Wise Men' or magi from the Orient - Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar - also known as The Three Kings. Gilded statues of the kings preside over the main entrance to the hotel as they have done for centuries. I met them again on a landing as I climbed the distinctly slanting stairs to my room, an endearing feature of this venerable old hotel. I often stood and communed with the wise old men, asking them what they had seen over the ages. They told me many secrets . . . in complete confidence, of course. The hotel has a quiet sophistication and self-assuredness born of hundreds of years of delivering service to royalty, political heads of state and famous artists, musicians, writers, and academics. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/w/o/o/3/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="Pavlova-like dessert at Chez Donati." class="photoborder"/> Pavlova-like dessert at Chez Donati. Image credit: Justine Tyerman The staff don't feel the need to brag about all the celebrities who stay there because they just do . . . and looking at the guests, their attire and demeanour match the spirit of the place – elegant but not showy. There's a dress code and guests adhere to it. As for gastronomical delights, the hotel has many options. Peter Knogl at the Cheval Blanc restaurant is the first Chef de Cuisine at a Swiss hotel to be awarded three Michelin stars. The Cheval Blanc is ranked among the world's best and creates the most delectable culinary chef-d'œuvres, too pretty to eat. Chez Donati serves the finest Italian cuisine. It's a five-minute walk from the hotel so guests can work up an appetite for the decadent treats on their dessert trolley. The Murano chandeliers there are stunning. So too is the pavlova-style dessert with toffee drizzled on the top. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/n/w/o/o/d/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1nvlzd.png/1516305311298.jpg" alt="Basel's Old Town features tall buildings and narrow lanes and is one of the best preserved towns in Europe." class="photoborder"/> Basel's Old Town features tall buildings and narrow lanes and is one of the best preserved towns in Europe. Image credit: Basel Tourismus Every Sunday, local gourmets gather in the historic ballroom for an elegant brunch beneath a dazzling canopy of chandeliers. Had I been a connoisseur of cigars or whisky, the cosy Salon du Cigare and bar overlooking the river would have been my late-night haven. Breakfast, à la Les Trois Rois, was a major event of the day. For a muesli, fresh fruit, yoghurt, cheese and bread lover like me, the Brasserie was nirvana, especially with the sun rising over the Rhine transforming the swirly waters from indigo to silver. We also dined away from the hotel at the outstanding Bistro Kunstmuseum, Schlüsel-Zunft and Volkshaus restaurants. The first of our group to visit the toilets at the Volkshaus started a stampede of camera-toting journalists. It's most unorthodox to advise people to take cameras to public loos but it's a must - the murals there are astonishing. Hoping to maintain my alpine fitness, I had a few sessions at the well-equipped Rhine-side gym but was so relaxed, I often found my thoughts drifting off down the river and my legs in mid-peddle. On the eve of my departure, I sat outside on the balcony of my suite overlooking the Rhine where trading ships once docked at the Schifflände, (boat landing), to load with salt from the nearby Salt House and Salt Tower. Surrounded by historical photographs and books of the era, I could easily visualise the ships setting off down the Rhine to take their precious cargo to the world. The evening sun cast a warm glow on the cream façade of the hotel and scattered the river with diamantes. In the distance, rather than a horizon bristling with jagged peaks, I could see the lush green hills of Germany. Such a tranquil sight . . . Three floors above me with the same view, apparently the Federer family were having drinks too, so my friends on the landing, The Three Kings, told me . . . *The writer travelled courtesy of Switzerland Tourism and was a guest of The Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois. More information: The Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. See: <a href="https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.lestroisrois.com_&d=DwMFaQ&c=N9aEhCy8U0rJkO1xCZf7rgM9fohfR5qe_N93viZd7O8&r=I5pjA5TeGoKDX0Sz-FITmeB56zsMUJLEgPhVfD36ZDp83WWuRdMB20Kkf1CL27BN&m=95EQ_dv87tRfsom7-0NhxrVNmzFj8SvalJlkkdBDJuI&s=H6c8po141VjmTAoTT9ofObHRdBzEskbY08QePNl3KFM&e=" target="_blank">lestroisrois.com</a>; Switzerland Tourism: <a href="https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.myswitzerland.com_&d=DwMFaQ&c=N9aEhCy8U0rJkO1xCZf7rgM9fohfR5qe_N93viZd7O8&r=I5pjA5TeGoKDX0Sz-FITmeB56zsMUJLEgPhVfD36ZDp83WWuRdMB20Kkf1CL27BN&m=95EQ_dv87tRfsom7-0NhxrVNmzFj8SvalJlkkdBDJuI&s=z2weh3hEFxEie3Flxo7KkDPS9meER2OZeR0U9I57_zA&e=" target="_blank">MySwitzerland.com</a>; Swiss Travel Pass: <a href="https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.myswitzerland.com_rail&d=DwMFaQ&c=N9aEhCy8U0rJkO1xCZf7rgM9fohfR5qe_N93viZd7O8&r=I5pjA5TeGoKDX0Sz-FITmeB56zsMUJLEgPhVfD36ZDp83WWuRdMB20Kkf1CL27BN&m=95EQ_dv87tRfsom7-0NhxrVNmzFj8SvalJlkkdBDJuI&s=TWKmfceEtIzjH2gDynoe7kdu0o5N_zF-Tvxw5_TtQrQ&e=" target="_blank">MySwitzerland.com/rail</a>; Swiss International Air Lines: <a href="https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.swiss.com_ch_en&d=DwMFaQ&c=N9aEhCy8U0rJkO1xCZf7rgM9fohfR5qe_N93viZd7O8&r=I5pjA5TeGoKDX0Sz-FITmeB56zsMUJLEgPhVfD36ZDp83WWuRdMB20Kkf1CL27BN&m=95EQ_dv87tRfsom7-0NhxrVNmzFj8SvalJlkkdBDJuI&s=R1gFmvXKqXBDaWYT4AOiCikXUOCK73toc0qHGZ79U5Y&e=" target="_blank">swiss.com/ch/en</a> Written by Justine Tyerman. Republished with the permission of <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a>

International Travel

Lippy dilemma: matte vs gloss?

Justine Tyerman takes a walk on the wild side when she dabbles in matte after a life-time of gloss. I’ve always been a high-gloss girl, ever since I began using lipstick at the ripe old age of six. But recently I’ve noticed the trend for matte, especially among the young ones at the weddings I’ve attended lately. At first I didn’t like it — I thought the effect was dull and... well... not shiny. But after a while, the matte look grew on me, as fashions often do, and I decided it was sophisticated, dramatic and ultra-chic. I began taking more notice of matte lipsticks, who was wearing them, where, when and why. The world of matte lipsticks Matte lipsticks are often worn in intense colours that look bold and striking. They make a strong statement so you need the confidence... and the outfits... to go with them. The women wearing them seem to have the ‘out-there’ personality and wardrobe to match the matte look. There’s a “walking on the wild side,” Hollywood siren element about them. On the down side, matte lipsticks can look dry and powdery and accentuate the creases in the lips. They are also more difficult and time-consuming to apply correctly, requiring exfoliation of the lips to get rid of dry skin before applying . . . but then they are more long-lasting than gloss. Gloss lippy is reflective and shiny and brings out the three-dimensionality of the lips. It’s super easy to apply — just whack it on — but it disappears faster, even if you are not talking and eating, and needs to be reapplied more often than matte. The overall effect of gloss is smooth, healthy-looking lips which convey a radiant, fresh, dew-kissed, outdoor, carefree look. Having tentatively experimented with a few mattes, they certainly don’t feel as nice to wear as lip gloss which is naturally hydrating. Incidentally, I don’t advise the tentative approach — if you’ve glossed all your life like I have, a sudden change to matte does not go unnoticed, so be prepared for feedback, negative, positive and uncertain. What does the expert say? I decided to consult an expert on the subject. L’Oréal Paris New Zealand makeup director Lisa Matson says: “If you are wanting to create a retro or old-Hollywood glamour look, matte is the type of lipstick the professionals use as it tends to last longer. “The only downside for matte lipsticks is it can make dry lips look drier. I recommend exfoliating lips before application and applying lip balm to hydrate the skin. “Gloss lipsticks, on the other hand, help to make lips look fuller, soften your make-up look, especially heavy or bold eye make-up. But beware of the colour ‘bleeding’ into fine lines... and your hair getting stuck in the gloss.” Very good point, if you have long hair. And just as I thought I was catching up, apparently the very latest is the nude look. And then there’s the satin effect — somewhere between matte and gloss. Maybe I’ll give that a go as a safer, less risqué intermediary step.

Beauty & Style

On the UNESCO World Heritage Bernina Express from Switzerland to Italy

There was nothing wrong with the seats inside the train – they were plush and luxurious with massive panoramic windows and hostesses serving gourmet food and champagne. We had paid a premium for the seats ... but we never actually sat in them. We spent the entire 2½t hours from Samedan in Eastern Switzerland over the Bernina Pass to Tirano in Northern Italy standing in an open carriage at the rear of the train, lurching from one side to the other, spellbound by the staggering landscape and the utter perfection of the cloudless, autumn day. My heart rate started to ramp up as soon as the bright red Rhaetian Railway locomotive with the Bernina Express sign slid into the station in Samedan, hauling a string of panoramic carriages which looked like glass capsules. In fact, my pulse began to accelerate early that morning when I opened one eye and peeped through the curtains in our Bever Lodge bedroom to discover the eye-wateringly bright blue sky and the silver veneer of frost on the grass. I had been planning this UNESCO World Heritage train ride for years and to strike a magic day like this in late autumn was beyond belief. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/5/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The Bernina Express makes its way through the Engadin Valley." /> The Bernina Express makes its way through the Engadin Valley. Image credit: Rhaetische Bahn/ Christoph Benz A smartly-attired Bernina Express hostess met us on the platform and showed us to our deluxe seats. On a cold, snowy or rainy day, travelling in comfort in the warm, panoramic carriage with huge windows that extended along and up the walls and across the roof would have been the ultimate in luxury and scenery-viewing. But that day, the carriage was nearly-deserted. Reading my mind, the hostess pointed to the rear of the train. "Everyone is in the open carriage today ... because of the beautiful weather."There were a handful of passengers in the wagon-like carriage which had hard wooden bench seats and no protection from the elements. "Ahh, perfect," I thought, as I scoped out the scenario for manoeuvreability and photography. "Nothing to stop me from swapping sides at will depending on whether the primo sights are left or right, less chance of trampling anyone who gets in the way and no glass reflection." The problem was the primo sights were everywhere on this trip. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/4/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The Bernina Massif at sunset." /> The Bernina Massif at sunset. Image credit: Engadin St. Moritz/ Christof Sonderegger We set off along the valley directly below the magnificent Panoramaweg, a 7km alpine pathway from Muottas Muragl to Alp Languard we had hiked the previous day. The wagon was noisy, blustery and far from comfortable, positively Spartan in fact, but I was so happy. Golden autumn foliage crept up the mountain sides swallowing up the dark green conifers. The spectacular, pure white Bernina Massif shimmered on the horizon like a mirage in the morning sunshine. It was astonishing to think our train was about to climb over this high alpine pass and end up in Italy. Such things are huge novelties for Kiwis. As we got closer, I nearly fell out of the carriage trying to get the perfect shot of the mighty Morteratsch Glacier and 4048m Piz Bernina towering regally above. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/6/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The train on the famous Brusio Circular Viaduct." /> The train on the famous Brusio Circular Viaduct. Image credit: Rhaetische Bahn/ Christoph Benz Near the summit of the pass lay the beautiful twin lakes of Lago Bianco (White Lake) and Lej Nair (Black Lake) named for their pale aqua and ink blue colours. Rivers flowing from the lakes head off in opposite directions – the Nair tracks northwards to the Inn and Danube and ultimately the Black Sea, while the Bianco flows south to the Adda and Po and the Adriatic. Glacier tongues reached down towards the lakes, waiting for the winter snow and ice to replenish and reunite them. At Ospizio Bernina, 2253m above sea level, the highest point on the trip and the highest altitude station on the Rhaetian Railway, I was in a state of euphoria, perhaps a little light-headed with the altitude. I was entranced by the strongly contrasting colours of the landscape - the intense, infinity blue of the sky; the blinding phosphorus of the sunshine; the pale, milky green of Lago Bianco; the dazzling white snow against the dark, muscular torso of the rocky massif. Ospizio marks the boundary between the Italian-speaking valley of Val Poschiavo and the Swiss Engadin valley where the inhabitants speak Romansh and German. From there we skirted the shore of Lago Bianco and began our long descent. Being in an open carriage at the back of the train, I could watch the massif slowly recede into the distance. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/7/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The Bernina Express travelling beside Lago Bianco (White Lake) in the winter." /> Bernina Express travelling beside Lago Bianco (White Lake) in the winter. Image credit: Rhaetische Bahn/ Beppe Raso Soon after, we stopped at Alp Grüm, 2091m, built in 1923. The old stone station houses a lovely restaurant and hotel where white duvets were airing in the windowsills in typically-Swiss alpine fashion. The passengers piled out and gazed around in wonder at Palü Lake, an exquisite turquoise jewel fed by melt waters from the glacier beneath Piz Palü. Hiking and biking tracks leading towards the glacier were dotted with hearty, fit-looking, older couples who waved out to us. I heard a yodel in the distance. I had an insane desire to abandon my Lake Como plans and join them. Such thoughts make me feel traitorous to my Kiwi homeland but Switzerland's mountains and glaciers are higher, craggier, snowier and so much more accessible than ours, thanks to the incredible network of mountain railways, cable cars, gondolas, tracks and lodges. And there are so many more mountains. Wherever you go, the horizon is literally bristling with peaks. A keen tramper, the alpine lodge high on a ridge above beckoned to me. Next time, I promised myself. Back on the train, I was caught off-guard by the same wrenching sensation I experience whenever I leave Central Otago, my turangawaewae. I felt an acute sense of loss as the mountains slipped away. Tears dribbled down my cheeks and a Swiss woman put her arm around my shoulder. She obviously understood the allure and magnetism of the mountains. I later discovered she was a friend of a friend from Wanaka. I had no time to wallow in my 'will-I-ever-be-back-in-the-Swiss-alps?' emotions though. The drama and excitement of our 1824m descent to Tirano soon flooded my consciousness and obliterated any sadness at leaving the mountains. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/3/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The Bernina Express trundling down the main street of Tirano in Italy." /> The Bernina Express trundling down the main street of Tirano in Italy. Image credit: Rhaetische Bahn/ Christof Sonderegger Despite the fact we were still in Switzerland, the landscape, architecture and place names took on a distinctly Italian-Mediterranean flavour as we descended to Poschiavo with its graceful palazzi, church spires, hillside vineyards and lovely Lago di Poschiavo, a mirror encircled by a necklace of mountains. The atmosphere was different too – the clear, sharp, light and cool, dry air of the high Swiss alps was replaced by the soft, diffuse, golden haze and warm, velvet air of the Italian lakes' district. The pièce de résistance on the downward leg was the Brusio Circular Viaduct, a truly remarkable engineering masterpiece which allows the train to lose height within a seriously short distance and confined space. The track has a maximum grade of 7 per cent so the train does not slip on the way up or lose control on the way down. <img class="photoborder" src="https://resources.stuff.co.nz/content/dam/images/1/o/e/q/w/1/image.related.StuffLandscapeSixteenByNine.620x349.1od5s8.png/1518664637612.jpg" alt="The enormity and beauty of the landscape on the journey from Switzerland to Italy is more than a little overwhelming." /> The enormity and beauty of the landscape on the journey from Switzerland to Italy is more than a little overwhelming. Image credit: Rhaetische Bahn/ Tibert Keller Opened in 1908, the 360-degree, 110m spiral viaduct is a jaw-dropping sight. The train corkscrews on a track supported by nine stone pillars that steadily decrease in height. At one point the front and the back of the train nearly overlap. When the locomotive reaches the valley floor, it leads the train between two of the support pillars while the tail end is still on the viaduct above. Rather snake-esque. About 15 minutes later, the train crossed the Italian border and trundled self-importantly down the main street of Tirano, (429m), taking up the entire road. What a grand entrance and a suitably dramatic finale to an extraordinary expedition. When the train came to a standstill, I was exhausted but exhilarated. I was experiencing massive sensory overload. And the fact we were outside, exposed to the elements and the noise of the train during the entire trip made the experience even more intense and physical. It was the least relaxing, most physically and emotionally draining train trip I've ever done. I didn't eat, drink or visit the bathroom for fear I'd miss something. Even blinking was risky although there were times when I wanted to close my eyes and ears to rest them from over-stimulation. The enormity and beauty of the landscape were overwhelming. 'Aren't we the lucky ones,' I said to myself and then out loud several times as if to convince some stony-faced passengers that they had just been to heaven and back. Breathless, bedraggled and bewitched, I must have looked a little unhinged. I went inside and sat in my expensive seat for five minutes, allowing the impact of the experience to settle into my consciousness. I was also not quite ready for the culture shock of moving from efficient, punctual Switzerland to romantic, seldom-on-time Italy. Had the opportunity presented itself, I would have happily stayed on the train and completed the same trip in the opposite direction. When the hostess came to politely evict me from the carriage, I asked if she ever tired of the trip. 'Never,' she said. 'Never.' 'Any hostess jobs available?' I asked. The full Bernina Express journey from Chur (593m above sea level) to Tirano (429m above sea level) takes four hours and covers a distance of 122 km of track including 55 tunnels and 196 bridges and viaducts. The top elevation is Ospizio Bernina, 2253m above sea level. See <a rel="noopener" href="https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.rhb.ch_en_panoramic-2Dtrains_bernina-2Dexpress&d=DwMFaQ&c=N9aEhCy8U0rJkO1xCZf7rgM9fohfR5qe_N93viZd7O8&r=I5pjA5TeGoKDX0Sz-FITmeB56zsMUJLEgPhVfD36ZDp83WWuRdMB20Kkf1CL27BN&m=Rc_UZymChsnBIT1S7OfHlcQtuHrwOd90T3T0f3CPOlI&s=RrXeAWXBlWNpukLW6OnS9zpdKYVu2EUVQkCU62ng8mk&e=" target="_blank">rhb.ch</a>. *The writer travelled courtesy of Switzerland Tourism, Rail Europe and Swiss Travel Pass. Written by Justine Tyerman. Republished with the permission of <a rel="noopener" href="http://stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a><a href="http://stuff.co.nz/"></a>

International Travel

Experiencing mountain magic in Switzerland’s Tschiertschen

Travel writer Justine Tyerman learns an important lesson in the little alpine village of Tschiertschen, Switzerland. Tall stories The Swiss don't set out to tell tall tales... but they do it, unintentionally, all the time. Especially the alpine folk. Here’s a perfect example: ‘How long does it take to reach this lake?’ I asked, pointing at the blue dot below the mountain peak on the wanderweg (hiking) map. ‘About two and three quarter hours,’ replied Heidi, the delightful receptionist at the Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa in the exquisite little alpine village of Tschiertschen, the correct pronunciation of which still eludes me. The best I could manage was ‘tear-chin’ which seemed to get a flicker of recognition and an amused smile from the locals. ‘Ok, that sounds manageable. We'll do that tomorrow,’ I said as we checked into the four-star resort high in the magnificent Bündner Alps of Switzerland. <img width="428" height="285" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Alpina-Tschiertschen-spa.jpg" alt="Alpina Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14158 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa. Image credit: Justine Tyerman ‘You can hike an extra 45 minutes from the lake up to a restaurant on the top of Hörnli mountain for lunch if you like,’ Heidi added helpfully. ‘Or take the gondola from Arosa.’ ‘Three and a half hours to the top?’ I replied. ‘And lunch at a nice restaurant? We'll hike up there, no trouble. We're Kiwis (New Zealanders). We don’t need to take a gondola.’ The prospect of a restaurant at the top of the mountain intrigued us. When hiking in New Zealand, we always joke about there being a cafe or lodge around the next corner . . . but there isn't. The summits of our highest mountains are devoid of any habitation. Except for at our ski resorts. With the next day all sorted, we were escorted to our salubrious suite where we did a quick change and embarked on Heidi’s ‘one-hour’ familiarisation hike. That was a real eye-opener and the first indication of the Swiss tendency to seriously under-estimate hiking times. The ‘easy’ amble turned out to be a strenuous two and a half hours of puffing uphill. But the landscape was so beautiful, we were not complaining. We walked through autumn forests, past pretty waterfalls and meadows of friendly cows playing ding dong songs on their bells as they ambled around the hillsides. The day was eye-wateringly clear, crisp and sunny - perfect conditions for hiking – and the views of the mountains and valley were glorious. <img width="447" height="299" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-waterfall.jpg" alt="Waterfall in Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14183 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Little waterfall in Tschiertschen. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Not only did we love every second of the hike, it was also an important learning curve for us – we discovered the Swiss who live in the mountains are super-fit and acclimatised to the high altitude. They sprint up steep mountains as if they are mere hillocks. We realised that any estimated hiking time from a Swiss alpine-dweller needed to be viewed with the utmost scepticism. That’s what I mean when I say they tell tall tales . . . without intending to. Another thing we learned was that most Swiss are excellent amateur tour guides. They are so proud and knowledgeable about their country, they are eager to share their favourite hikes and must-sees with overseas visitors. This happens at railway stations, bus stops, restaurants . . . anywhere there is a map of mountains and hiking trails. Which is everywhere in this abundantly-blessed country crowded with peaks and crisscrossed with tracks. Having learned these invaluable lessons early on in our alpine holiday, henceforth we roughly doubled all hiking times and managed splendidly. <img width="446" height="297" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/cow-with-bell.jpg" alt="Cow" class="size-full wp-image-14194 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Cows playing ding dong songs on their bells. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Back at the Alpina, we headed for a soak in the hot pool and then had drinks on our balcony as the sun set. It was magic. I was so happy, I was tempted to yodel. Shared Asian dinner That evening, we were treated to a shared Asian dinner prepared by the Alpina’s highly-talented Chinese chef Tony Leung. We dined in the elegant La Belle Époque restaurant, the hotel’s historic dining room with its original parquet floor and chandeliers. As visitors from New Zealand, it was most enjoyable for us to be seated at a round table with a group of friendly Swiss folk. A 17-year-old boy, who was dining with his grandparents, did a fine job of translating for everyone. His grandparents live in Tschiertschen and they told us about the wonderful parties and balls that were held in that very dining room when they were young. They also gave us many tips about where to hike. <img width="462" height="308" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Justine-Chris-Tyerman-Alpina-Tschiertschen-restaurant.jpg" alt="Justine and Chris Tyerman" class="size-full wp-image-14172 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Justine and Chris enjoying their dinner. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Tony’s Asian dishes were delicious and our charming waiters Eran and Jamina looked after us exceedingly well. On the menu were chicken soup with glass noodles, Sze-chuan beef, Thai chicken curry, sweet and sour shrimps, Asian vegetables with tofu, wild rice and fried rice noodles with vegetables, and lychees and icecream for dessert. I never tire of those fresh Asian flavours. The wines were delectable too. We were thoroughly spoilt that night. We slept with starlight shining through the skylight above our bed, and awoke to the sound of tinkling cowbells and church bells. I wrapped myself in a warm blanket and opened the doors to our balcony to watch the sunrise. Nowhere is the freshness of the new day so sweet as in the mountains. The sun was slow to show itself on our side of the valley, sliding tantalisingly just below the ridge, casting hazy golden beams and long shadows across the little village. Suddenly, Tschiertschen was illuminated in dazzling light and the colours were blindingly bright. The church spire shone in the morning sun and the pastures were vividly green and as smooth as an iced cake. How do they mow the grass so beautifully on such steep slopes, I wondered. <img width="443" height="295" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-sunlight.jpg" alt="Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14181 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Tschiertschen in the sunlight. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Breakfast at the Alpina was a gastronomic highlight with a delicious array of mueslis, fresh fruit, yoghurts, cheese, cold meats, salads, juices and the best bread and pastries I've ever tasted. Having doubled Heidi’s hiking estimate, we abandoned our plans to hike to the top of Hörnli and decided to catch the train to Arosa and take the gondola to the restaurant for lunch. Rather than backtracking by bus to Chur, we walked down to the train station at St Peter Molinis. Even that turned out to be much further than anticipated with a steep climb up to the station at the end but the hike was well worth the effort. En route, we came across an old sawmill operated by hydropower from the Ruchtobel River, spotted wild deer in the forest and walked through pastures with cows so tame they were happy to be patted. At the station, we met a young woman who explained that at St Peter Molinis, trains only stop if you push a button. A vital piece of information. She also told us all her favourite places to hike. The train trip was stunning - deep gorges, turquoise rivers, power stations and high viaducts - and the lakeside village of Arosa was like a jewel surrounded by a necklace of magnificent mountains. <img width="450" height="600" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Langwies-viaduct.jpg" alt="Viaduct" class="size-full wp-image-14174 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Langwies viaduct on the way to Arosa. Image credit: Justine Tyerman <img width="454" height="303" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Arosa-automn.jpg" alt="Arosa Obersee lake" class="size-full wp-image-14160 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Arosa and its Obersee lake. Image credit: Justine Tyerman We took the gondola to the top of Hörnli where there were alps as far as the eye could see. The 360 degree panorama was staggering, the horizon bristling with mountains. A telescope told us the names of all the peaks and ranges from Zermatt to St Moritz and far beyond. We basked in warm autumn sun while lunching and drinking chilled rosé at the splendid restaurant. We celebrated life and how privileged we were to be in such a beautiful part of the world. <img width="447" height="298" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Hoernli-top.jpg" alt="Hörnli" class="size-full wp-image-14171 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Top of the Hörnli. Image credit: Justine Tyerman As we walked back down the mountain track, there were patches of snow where the snowmakers had been hard at work, laying down a base for the coming ski season. The return trip to Chur by train and Post Auto bus to Tschiertschen was just as jaw-dropping the second time around. Arriving back at the Alpina, the staff were so friendly, it felt like we were coming home to family. After relaxing in the sauna and drinks in the bar, we dined in the scenic Panorama Restaurant overlooking the valley and mountains. With a strong penchant for spicy cuisine, we had another of Tony’s fabulous Asian dishes, Thai curry with cod and jasmin rice, served with a flourish by Eran who again looked after us splendidly. There was even a ‘Welcome Tyerman family’ heart-shaped stone on our table. High above us on the dark horizon, we could see the twinkling lights of the restaurant at the top of Hörnli where we had lunch. We’ll hike up there one day, we promised ourselves. <img width="429" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hoernli-restaurant.jpg" alt="Hörnli" class="size-full wp-image-14170 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> The Hörnli restaurant. Image credit: Justine Tyerman The Alpina Hotel: history The Alpina Hotel, established in 1897, has a long and illustrious history. The first holiday-makers arrived in Tschiertschen in the summer of 1892, even before there was a road link to Chur. The road was opened three years later setting the scene for the idyllic mountain village with its sunny, sheltered location to become a high-altitude resort. Soon after, Christian Hold of Arosa built the 40-bed Alpina Hotel on an elevated terrace above the village. Originally, the building had only one row of balconies but the hotel was so popular that in 1913, Hold added 20 more beds and a second row of balconies. From 1897 right through until the late 1970s, the Alpina’s La Belle Époque dining room was famous for its elegant balls and parties. In the years that followed, the Alpina saw a series of tenants and by 1937, it had central heating and running water on all floors. During WW2, the hotel stood empty for a while, until it was used as a detention camp and refugee home in 1944-45. In December 1946, chef Adam Stocker bought the Alpina from Hold and in 1952, the installation of the first ski lift launched Tschiertschen as a winter holiday destination. Stocker and his wife Barbara ran the Alpina until 1973 when they passed the lease and then ownership on to their son Andreas and his wife Esther. They undertook further improvements to the hotel in 1984-85. In 2001 Marina Sciamanna took over the hotel and ran it as a friends-of-nature house for cost-conscious Dutch guests. In 2008, she handed over management to her son-in-law, Tobias Alderliesten who steadily increased the number of bookings every year. The hotel then came to the attention of Malaysian entrepreneur Ah Khing Teo who purchased it in April 2013. He commissioned architects and engineers to carefully restore the historic building in the style of the historic hotel. During the extensive renovation and modernisation process from 2014-15, spa facilities were added on the ground floor. Upon reopening in December 2015, the four-star Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa has reassumed its rightful place in the tourist landscape of the Grisons. It is once again THE place to stay on the south side of the Schanfigg Valley. The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa today High on an elevated terrace above the village, the white, five-storey Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa with its gables and traditional balconies is an impressive landmark. The renovated hotel now offers 27 rooms and suites, two restaurants, stylish wine and cocktail bars, a cigar lounge, library and spa zone. <img width="429" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Alpina-Tschiertschen-hotel.jpg" alt="Alpina Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14155 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Our bright, sunny balcony suite on the top floor of the hotel had a large, super-comfortable bed with fluffy down duvets and soft pillows, a bathroom with a separate toilet, shower enclosure and vanity well-stocked with the Alpina’s own fragrant toiletries, a skylight window, flat screen TV, and free wifi. I loved the warm hues of the pine walls and oak floors. But my favourite place was the balcony. I was spellbound by the stunning view of the Schanfigg Valley, the magnificent Bündner Alps and the exquisite little village of Tschiertschen with its narrow streets, sun-blackened chalets and barns and graceful stone church. Nearby was the bottom station of the ski-lift. I could just picture the scene in winter with the landscape blanketed in glistening white snow. <img width="430" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-village.jpg" alt="Village of Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14182 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Village of Tschiertschen. Image credit: Justine Tyerman A welcome card and fresh fruit from managers Michael and Marlies Gehring was a thoughtful touch along with a choice of pillows – on the menu were cherry stone, millet, pinewood, feathers or synthetic fibre balls. I enjoyed reading Marlies’ tips of the day especially her advice on how to sleep better and the health benefits of yoghurt, linseed oil and drinking lots of water. As a historophile, it was heart-warming to see how well the herringbone parquet floor, chandeliers, wood panelling and plastered ceilings of the Alpina’s La Belle Époque dining room have been restored. Even the mirror above the piano is in the same position as it was in 1897, perfectly placed to reflect the hands of the pianist. The Panorama Restaurant has also been renovated in keeping with the Golden Era of the 1920s. The outside terrace has spectacular views of the valley and mountains. The cosy Alpina Bar has original wood panelled walls and floors while an intimate wine bar, the AlpinaVinothek, has been installed in the old vaulted cellars. There’s also a library and cigar lounge. The outstanding new Shan Spa (Shan is Chinese for ‘mountain nature’) offers pure relaxation, pampering and indulgence, the perfect place to relax, destress and unwind. Facilities include an outdoor Jacuzzi, a smorgasbord of saunas, a Kneipp basin and a range of relaxing massages, beauty treatments and Asian health applications. My husband Chris is a sauna fan so he sampled all four. The Finnish sauna has hot, dry air to enhance circulation and stimulate the blood supply to your muscles; the eucalyptus of the steam bath benefits the respiratory system, skin and hair; the bio-sauna offers essential herbal aromas to purify and warmth to revitalise the body; and the infra-red sauna is especially recommended for muscle spasms, joint pain, general fatigue and for those who do not tolerate intense heat and high humidity in a sauna. He emerged refreshed, rejuvenated and re-energised. A highlight for me was the unique sensory shower experience of the Via Mala thunderstorm path with hot and cold mist, a storm with huge rain drops, bird song and stars, and a deluge of hot water with cool mist. I did it several times. It was quite addictive. I also enjoyed the Kneipp basin where I sat on a warm stone bench and trod water in a stone tub which stimulated my circulation and arterial blood supply. Apparently it’s a great way to prevent varicose veins so I’ll need to keep coming back. But at the end of a day in the mountains, I loved nothing better than lying in the warmth of the Jacuzzi, relaxing on the bubble lounger, and breathing in the fresh, sweet alpine air. Getting to Tschiertschen Tschiertschen (1340 metres above sea level, population 240) may look and feel delightfully remote and tranquil but it’s only 25 minutes by regular Post Auto bus service from Chur and one hour and 45 minutes from Zurich Airport. We caught an early train from Zurich and sped through countryside that looked like a never-ending series of postcards - flickering past my eyes like the frames of an old-fashioned movie, only in glorious technicolour. When we disembarked at Chur, there was our Post Auto bus, clearly marked Tschiertschen, pulling into the station at precisely the time it was scheduled. <img width="433" height="289" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-welcome.jpg" alt="Welcome" class="size-full wp-image-14184 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Tschiertschen welcomes its visitors. Image credit: Justine Tyerman We headed 10km (25 minutes) up a steep, windy mountain road to a village straight from a Swiss Tourism brochure. I had to blink several times to make sure I wasn't hallucinating. Tschiertschen is a quintessential tiny Swiss alpine village built on a mountainside, untouched by commercial tourism. The historic Alpina Mountain Resort and Spa, one of only two hotels in Tschiertschen, sat proudly above the village bathed in sunshine. I fell in love with the place in an instant. The friendly driver deposited us at the bus stop from where we planned to walk to the Alpina. It looked like a short distance on the map but it was straight uphill so we got all our exercise in one strenuous hit, lugging our cases up the steep main street. Had we phoned, the hotel's courtesy car would have collected us, ‘No problem,’ said Heidi as we arrived out of breath at reception where cool drinks and alpine nut cake awaited us. So much to offer Summer In the summer, Tschiertschen is a hiking paradise, the ideal starting point for many beautiful day and half-day excursions. The 70km network of trails takes walkers through unspoilt natural landscapes devoid of man-made interference like tar-sealed roads, cable cars and snow cannons which is increasingly rare these days. <img width="468" height="312" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-Alpina-hotel.jpg" alt="Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14179 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Tschiertschen and its Alpina Mountain Resort. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Tschiertschen is the first stop on the famous six-day Schanfigger Höhenweg, described as ‘the most beautiful mountain hiking path in Graubünden’. The village is also the perfect base for mountain bikers. And for those who need an extra boost uphill, the Alpina has the latest, greatest, off-road, cross-country e-bikes for their guests’ use, the ‘flitzerli MONSTER eBike’. Graubünden’s most beautiful tennis court is located in Tschiertschen, directly behind the Alpina Hotel. Guests play for free with rackets and balls provided. Winter Winter in Tschiertschen is a dream come true for skiers and snowboarders seeking to escape the crowded slopes of Switzerland’s famous ski resorts. There’s 32km of excellently-prepared pistes of all degrees of difficulty, 100 percent natural snow, no crowds, no queuing for the modern four-seater chairlifts and ski lifts and no loud music blasting across the slopes. Just beautifully diverse downhill runs through forests and gullies with terrain to suit everyone from beginners and families to experts like local resident and three-time world champion ski acrobat Mia Engi. There’s also plenty of challenging terrain for free-riders, powder hounds and off-piste skiers. <img width="445" height="298" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-winter.jpg" alt="Winter in Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14196 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Winter in Tschiertschen must be wonderful. Image credit: Alpina Tschiertschen The ski school meeting point is right behind the Alpina Hotel and the valley station of the lift can be reached in just one minute. There’s also a free ski bus from the village car park to the bottom of the chairlift. And if you are looking for a new thrill on the snow, the Alpina will lend you a gögel, a mono-ski/toboggan combo. Organised winter events include guest ski races, night skiing with torches, guided ski tours and ski safaris, gourmet evenings and plays, exhibitions, readings and chamber music concerts. Wine and food The Bündner Herrschaft area, often called the ‘Burgundy of Switzerland’, ranks among the best regions for red wine north of the Alps. The vineyards where 45 grape varieties flourish in warm conditions, are just 20 minutes by car from Tschiertschen. The picturesque wine-growing villages of Fläsch, Maienfeld, Jenins and Malans are worth visiting at any time of the year. Winemakers mature their finest wines in oak barrels and secure top international awards with them. Tschiertschen is famous for its high-quality ‘AlpenHirt’, dried beef made from cattle grazing high alpine pastures. The meat is marinated in a mixture of red wine, natural salt and herbs and left to dry in the mountain air for eight to 16 weeks rather than being preserved in pickling salt with additives in a smoke chamber. Guests can also sample richly flavoursome Alp Farur cheese. Tschiertschen holds a Farmers’ Market every Saturday afternoon selling alpine cheese, alpine butter, eggs, meat, Graubünden nut gateaux, home-made Graubünden pear bread, jams, liqueurs and aperitif platters directly from the local farmers’ wives. Chur Just 20 minutes away from Tschiertschen on the Post Auto bus, lies the city of Chur (population 34,880), the capital of the eastern Switzerland canton of Graubünden/Grisons. Chur boasts a car-free medieval Old Town, the wonderfully restored 13th-century, three-naved Cathedral of the Assumption in the courtyard of Bishop’s Palace, the Graubünden Museum of Fine Arts, the Rhaetian Museum, Graubünden Natural History Museum, art galleries and theatres with classical and jazz concerts . . . not to mention excellent shopping. <img width="466" height="310" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/historic-auto-bus.jpg" alt="Historic auto bus" class="size-full wp-image-14168 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Historic Post Auto Bus. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Unique, unspoiled, authentic Tschiertschen has a wealth of unique natural attributes. A world away from the glitz and glamour of Switzerland’s world-famous resorts, the village offers a tranquil, close-to-nature, unspoiled, authentic, alpine experience, a welcome respite from the stressful, high-pressure lives that many people lead in the cities these days. But comfort is not compromised. The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa pampers you with romance, history, gourmet cuisine, fine wine, spa facilities, salubrious suites and impeccable service. Unique, unspoiled, authentic . . . go there before the secret is discovered. * The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa is a member of the Romantik Hotels & Restaurants International, a group of more than 200 establishments in 10 European countries. ‘The distinguishing characteristics of tradition, history, quality and warm hospitality combined with excellent cuisine, authentic local roots and tangible history unite the owner-run hotels, creating an exclusive collection to delight even the most discerning guests.’ * The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa is included in the Guide Michelin’s list of the best hotels in Switzerland. * Justine and Chris Tyerman stayed at the Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa, Tschiertschen, Switzerland:<a href="http://www.the-alpina.com/" target="_blank">www.the-alpina.com</a> * Switzerland Tourism: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com</a> * Swiss Travel Pass: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/rail" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com/rail</a> * Rail Europe: <a href="http://www.raileurope.com.au/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.com.au</a> / <a href="http://www.raileurope.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.co.nz</a> * Swiss International Air Lines: <a href="http://www.swiss.com/ch/en" target="_blank">www.swiss.com/ch/en</a> * Republished with the permission of <a href="http://travelmemo.com/" target="_blank">Travelmemo.com</a>

International Travel

Rob Roy Glacier: Exploring a truly enchanted land

Travel writer Justine Tyerman is in love with a rugged Scot called Rob Roy… Rob Roy Glacier is like a magnet to me. We’ve hiked the track in high summer under a sun-bleached sky, wearing only shorts and T-shirts - grateful for the dappled shade of the beech forest canopy; and in full winter tramping gear as fat snowflakes drift down from a low, slate-grey ceiling… hungry for glimpses of the glacier through wisps of mist and snow flurries. We have even trudged up the track in the rain, when tendril waterfalls join forces to become angry, swollen cataracts… such is the allure of the glacier. But our favourite time is when the valley is dressed in silver crystals after a June hoar frost and our boots crunch through stiff white tussock and over concrete moss. The river is ice-green foam and the spray freezes on our eyelashes and brows and transforms bearded men into Santa Clauses. Where the meagre early winter sunshine penetrates the steep-sided gorge, the air sparkles with dazzling diamond filaments and your breath becomes a visible thing, hanging in little puffy clouds like cartoon speech bubbles. When our girls and their holiday cousins were little, they believed they were in an enchanted land, and it was easy to keep them skipping and dancing up the steep track, eager to discover what magic lay around the next corner. They half expected to see Aslan and the White Witch. Icicle swords droop from overhanging rocks as if guarding fairy grottos below and small waterfalls and ponds are frozen in time. Common-place spider webs and ferns become works of art in silver filigree, demanding that we stop and stare in wonder. But we dare not linger for more than a few minutes for fear of freezing solid like the landscape… or victims of the White Witch. By early afternoon, the sun is brilliant against a sharp blue sky but there is no warmth where it touches and nothing thaws. You hear the rushing waters of the Rob Roy stream far below in a deep ravine long before you see the glacier-fed cascade. I listen intently, trying to put the sound into words. It’s the noisy hiss of static as you tune your radio, but with an underlying conversational gurgle, burble or chortle . . . and then a deafening booming roar as the gorge narrows and the water fights to be first through the gap in the rocks. <img width="500" height="353" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266668/1_500x353.jpg" alt="1 (72)"/> Justine heading up the track in mid-summer. Image credit: Justine Tyerman As we climb higher, the glacier is visible in snatches through the forest canopy and flimsy waterfalls tumble in tiers from the mountain ridges. It becomes a game to trace and time a mass of spray from where it topples over the frozen ledge to the rocks far below. It is impossible to take in the full height of the mountains towering above unless you lie on your back on the ground. The last part of the track takes us over and around truck-sized boulders carelessly discarded by the glacier as it retreated up the mountain side to its present-day precarious home, clinging to a rock face below Rob Roy Peak. We are spellbound again as if it were our first not seventh or eighth trek to the lookout. Under a heavy mantle of snow, the cold blue gleam of the glacier face is blindingly bright… and mesmerisingly beautiful. In the spring or summer thaw, huge slabs of ice on the terminal face lose the fight against gravity and warming temperatures and thunder down the valley in a white cloud. ... an awesome sight, even from a safe vantage point. <img width="500" height="375" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266667/in-text-two_500x375.jpg" alt="In Text Two."/> A kea or alpine parrot against the stunning backdrop of the Rob Roy Glacier. Image credit: <a href="http://www.ecowanaka.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.ecowanaka.co.nz</a> With our Leki hiking sticks, sturdy tramping boots, all-weather Goretex jackets and layers of fine merino and possum, high energy snacks, emergency survival gear and 4WD vehicle waiting at the carpark, we modern hikers are as safe and warm and well-prepared as we can be. I reflect back on an expedition made over 100 years ago by English explorer Maud Moreland who ventured up the Matukituki Valley in a horse-drawn dray and climbed up to the glacier in a long skirt and leather boots…long before DoC built a swing bridge over the river and cut a well-formed track around the cliff faces, slips and boulders. In 1908, she wrote: We were now at the entrance of a gorge that looked as if the mountains had been cleft by some terrific force: on one side they rose black and precipitous with trees clinging wherever they could find a little soil but generally they were sheer walls of rock. On our side the mountains were clothed to within a few hundred feet of the top with dense bush. Leaving the horses tied below we began a toilsome ascent through a belt of tutu – a stout herb growing as high as our shoulders. This bit was very steep, followed by a belt of fern, then across screeds of slate, shale and faces of bare rock with only cracks for footholds when we clung by our fingertips. The heat grew greater every moment and the glare from the rocks scorched us and made us terribly thirsty as we worked our way from gully to gully. After a tedious climb we at last saw the head of the gorge – a wonderful sight on which not many eyes have gazed. It is closed by a semi circle of cliffs, precipitous and black. And wedged as it were between three mountain peaks lies an enormous glacier. Not a long river of ice, but a mighty mass of ice, breaking off sharp at the top of the stupendous peaks. Maud gazed at the glacier one summer day over a century ago, as transfixed by the sight as we are today, searching for words to express the exquisite beauty and power of the vision before her. Our efforts seem trivial next to hers. Knees turn to jelly on the long trek back down to the car, the steep descent made even more treacherous as we walk forwards but look backwards for fear of missing a view we have not seen on the way up. The swing bridge over the Matukituki River seems higher and longer than earlier in the day as I contrive without success to cross it without the added excitement of friends (male) making it even swingier. <img width="499" height="665" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266666/in-text-three_499x665.jpg" alt="In Text Three (2)"/> Waterfalls cascade from the cliffs with Rob Roy Glacier in the background. Image credit: www.ecowanaka.co.nz Back at the carpark, the temperature is minus 3 and as we drive back to Wanaka in our cosy JUCY 4WD, the fast retreating sun stains the snowy mountain tops pink. We stop at a tiny pebbled beach near Glendu Bay and watch the shimmering pathway shrink to a sliver and disappear as the winter sun puts on a final dazzling display of crimson fire before sliding behind Mt Aspiring/Tititea. There is silence as we store the memories in a safe place . . . until next time. The 10km track from the Raspberry Creek carpark to the Rob Roy Glacier lookout takes about 3-4 hours return. The glacier sits below the 2606m Rob Roy Peak named in early times after Scottish hero Rob Roy McGregor. It is said the figure of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Roy_MacGregor" target="_blank">McGregor</a> showed on the rock and ice face of the mountain when seen from the Rob Roy Downs opposite the mouth of the Stream. The 50 - 60 minute, 54km drive to the start of the Rob Roy track is a highlight in its own right. The road skirts Lake Wanaka, passing by iconic Glendu Bay with postcard views of Mt Aspiring and the wispy waterfalls of Treble Cone. It follows the gin-clear Matukituki River up the valley, deep into the Mt Aspiring National Park, part of Te Wahipounamu UNESCO World Heritage site, known to the original Māori inhabitants as Te Wāi Pounamu - the greenstone waters. You can drive to the Raspberry Creek car park and hike to Rob Roy glacier independently or contact <a href="/" target="_blank">Eco Wanaka Adventures</a> for a great guided trek, including lunch and transport from Wanaka. Transport: JUCY Rentals: <a href="http://www.jucy.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.jucy.co.nz</a> Accommodation: Love Home Swap: <a href="http://www.lovehomeswap.com/" target="_blank">www.lovehomeswap.com</a> Hero image credit: <a href="http://www.ecowanaka.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.ecowanaka.co.nz</a>

Domestic Travel

What to see and do in Zürich

Why are there storks nesting on the roof of a five-star hotel in Zurich? Justine Tyerman learns the legend of the ‘Haus zum Storchen’. She also discovers how ‘savoir-faire with tradition’ has saved the soul but polished the visage of a much-loved city landmark. The hallmark of an exceptional hotel is the calibre of the people who work there . . . like a doorman with ESP, a kind receptionist, a chef with a generous heart, a concierge with magical skills, charming waiters and a fleet-footed house maid. I found such a hotel in my recent travels in Zurich, Switzerland, a place I instantly fell in love with and felt at home although I had never been there before. It was a pristine, sunny, autumn day so I decided to walk the short distance from Zurich train station to my hotel rather than take a tram or riverboat. It wasn't far but I didn’t factor in the cobblestones. They are not kind to suitcases with wheels. As I struggled clumsily across the Weinplatz square with my wheels lodging in every crevice, a smartly-dressed doorman came to my rescue. He was from the five-star Storchen Hotel and guessed I was heading his way. A delightful man and so elegant in his handsome black livery. Regaining my composure, I checked in with the delightful receptionist Annika and heard the most beautiful words in the English language, well, any language actually . . . madam, you have been upgraded to a superior room. Having travelled 30 hours from New Zealand, I nearly hugged her. She handed me the seriously weighty key – no flimsy plastic key cards here – and Adel delivered me to my room along with my problematic suitcase which was now behaving nicely again on level ground. Unlocking the door with a real key in a real lock was quite a novelty and very much in keeping with the history and heritage of this venerable riverside establishment which has been welcoming guests for 660 years. I was thrilled with my abode for the next few days – a sunny spacious bedroom, sitting area and bathroom with a warm, welcoming ambiance that made me feel relaxed and at ease. The plush carpet, pale pine woodwork, bronze and glass light fittings, tranquil willow-tendril mural and king-size bed with softest linen embossed with the Storchen’s stork crest created a luxurious yet cosy atmosphere. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266030/2-my-sunny-spacious-bedroom-sitting-area-and-bathroom-had-a-warm-welcoming-ambiance-that-made-me-feel-relaxed-and-at-ease-3-_500x333.jpg" alt="2 My Sunny Spacious Bedroom , Sitting Area And Bathroom Had A Warm , Welcoming Ambiance That Made Me Feel Relaxed And At Ease . (3)"/> My sunny spacious bedroom, sitting area and bathroom had a warm, welcoming ambiance that made me feel relaxed and at ease. The sun was streaming in through two large windows that opened wide to the historic Weinplatz and the River Limmat. Gazing down at the colourful Saturday market in the square and on the pedestrian bridge with its merry-go-round and stalls and the laughter of children, I felt part of the lively scene rather than just a spectator from behind glass as is so often the case with modern hotels whose windows are permanently sealed shut. Boats chugged up and down the tranquil Limmat under the Rathaus Brücke (Town Hall Bridge) as they have done for centuries, and the bells of many churches were chiming. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266031/3-a-handwritten-welcome-letter-from-the-storchen-general-manager-joerg-arnold-along-with-fresh-orchids-fruit-and-macarons-were-heart-warming-touches_500x333.jpg" alt="3 A Handwritten Welcome Letter From The Storchen General Manager Jörg Arnold Along With Fresh Orchids , Fruit And Macarons Were Heart -warming Touches."/> A handwritten welcome letter from the Storchen General Manager Jörg Arnold along with fresh orchids, fruit and macarons were heart-warming touches. A handwritten welcome letter from the Storchen General Manager Jörg Arnold along with fresh orchids, fruit and macarons were heart-warming touches. Attention to detail was evident in the leather-lined soft-close drawers stocked with a myriad of thoughtful extras like dental, nailcare, sewing and shaving kits, a leather tissue box, a super-efficient hairdryer and even a lint remover. The fridge was well-supplied, and the Koenig coffee machine was also much appreciated along with the free wifi, large flat screen TV and an iPad for guest use with a wealth of information about Zurich. With a couple of hours to fill before my husband Chris arrived, it was exceedingly tempting to succumb to jet-lag fatigue and snuggle up with the cute soft toy stork amongst the light-as-a-feather duvets and pillows. It was one of the most sublimely comfortable beds I’ve ever experienced in my travels. I love the way Swiss beds are made up with separate duvets so you can cocoon yourself amid the feathers. I wondered if the pillows and duvets were stuffed with stork down perhaps? I also discovered the bed had quite a repertoire. It was fully adjustable with a mechanism to raise and lower each end. But after freshening up in the gorgeous white marble bathroom with its large glass shower enclosure, handsome brass fittings, heated tiled floor and divine toiletries including fragrant orange peel body lotion from the Storchen’s own farms within their Living Circle brand, I was invigorated and ready to explore the hotel and environs. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266032/4-divine-toiletries-from-the-storchen’s-own-farms-within-their-living-circle-brand_500x333.jpg" alt="4 Divine Toiletries From The Storchen ’s Own Farms Within Their Living Circle Brand."/> Divine toiletries from the Storchen’s own farms within their Living Circle brand. Recent extensive renovations completed by 400 craftsmen in a record-breaking six and a half weeks before a grand reopening in February 2017, have created an opulent new look while preserving the much-cherished heritage of the hotel. The entire building was modernised and streamlined from the lobby, bar, restaurant, and banquet rooms to the 66 rooms and suites. <img width="499" height="313" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266056/5_499x313.jpg" alt="5 (14)"/> The new main entrance leads directly from the jetty on the Limmat – Zurich’s only hotel to have its own river boat service. No expense was spared. Even the main entrance was moved and now leads directly from the jetty on the Limmat – Zurich’s only hotel to have its own river boat service – rather than the Weinplatz. Jörg Arnold said some of their regular guests were anxious that the renovated Storchen would lose the soul of the old establishment they knew and loved. “But the spirit of this august hotel is still here, just somewhat refreshed,” he said. “We have stayed true to the old principles: savoir-faire with tradition, adapted to the modern age. In fact, everything is more elegant than before.” And the renovations and workmanship have certainly worked wonders, thanks to interior designers Christoph Cavigelli and Ina Rinderknecht, who have breathed new life and lightness into the old hotel with warm, rich, toffee tones interspersed with aqua splashes that echo the river. <img width="499" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266033/6the-stork-is-a-constant-motif-flying-gracefully-around-the-walls-and-arching-an-elegant-wing-over-the-reception-desk-photo-courtesy-of-the-storchen-hotel_499x333.jpg" alt="6The Stork Is A Constant Motif , Flying Gracefully Around The Walls And Arching An Elegant Wing Over The Reception Desk . Photo Courtesy Of The Storchen Hotel."/> The stork is a constant motif, flying gracefully around the walls and arching an elegant wing over the reception desk. Image credit: Storchen Hotel. The stork, for which the hotel was named over six centuries ago, is a constant motif and insignia - flying gracefully around the walls, arching an elegant wing over the reception desk, nesting on the roof, preparing to take flight from above the Terrace Restaurant and even landing on the beds in the form of soft toys - a novel way for guests to indicate when linen and towels are to be changed. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266034/7-the-soft-toy-stork-is-a-novel-way-for-guests-to-indicate-when-linen-and-towels-are-to-be-changed_500x333.jpg" alt="7 The Soft Toy Stork Is A Novel Way For Guests To Indicate When Linen And Towels Are To Be Changed."/> The soft toy stork is a novel way for guests to indicate when linen and towels are to be changed. The Storchen’s Terrace Restaurant is blessed with such a magnificent vista, I did not know where to focus my attention – the graceful swans on the Limmat River directly below, the iconic twin steeples of the Grossmünster Cathedral or the spectacular snowy alps towering above Lake Zurich on the horizon. The Barchetta and outside Piazza are very popular spots for modern Italian cuisine. Try the delicious vitello tonnato. Dining in the historic riverside Rötisserie Restaurant with its original parquet floor and beautiful chandeliers is an elegant affair. The cuisine and wine are exceptional. <img width="498" height="280" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266055/aa_498x280.jpg" alt="Aa"/> Dining in the historic riverside Rötisserie Restaurant with its original parquet floor and beautiful chandeliers is an elegant affair. Image credit: Storchen Hotel. Upstairs, the Cigar Bar has a traditional masculine woody, leather look. The stained glass windows are inset with guildhall crests and the curved wood panelled ceiling is reminiscent of a ship, very much in keeping with the hotel’s role as the seat of the ‘Zunft der Schiffleuten’ (Shippers Guild) since 1894. The perfect spot for a whiskey, rum or port . . . accompanied by a cigar of course. There are 30 different varieties from around the world to choose from. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266054/9-looking-at-the-storchen-from-the-other-side-of-the-river-the-massive-clock-face-and-spire-of-st-peterskirche-seem-to-rise-directly-from-the-hotel-roof_500x333.jpg" alt="9 Looking At The Storchen From The Other Side Of The River , The Massive Clock Face And Spire Of St Peterskirche Seem To Rise Directly From The Hotel Roof. (1)"/> Looking at the Storchen from the other side of the river, the massive clock face and spire of St Peterskirche seem to rise directly from the hotel roof alongside the famous nesting storks. Looking at the Storchen from the other side of the river, the massive clock face and spire of St Peterskirche seem to rise directly from the hotel roof alongside the famous nesting storks. In the late afternoon, the warm peach shades of the exterior walls glow in the sunshine. It’s a romantic sight with the riverboats gliding by on satin waters. Impeccable service and cuisine Renowned for impeccable service, the staff are friendly, warm and eager to chat and engage with guests. There’s an intimate family feel to the place. The staff I spoke to say they love working there and this shines through, radiating from their faces. Some have been at the Storchen for more than 25 years. When it comes to problem-solving, never underestimate the wisdom and knowledge of the concierges at five-star establishments like the Storchen. Xhevdet, who turned out to be an IT wizard, came up with the perfect solution to our complicated onward travel conundrum which had been puzzling us for days. The restaurant, bar and kitchen staff were also outstanding. One chilly autumn evening after a long day of sight-seeing, we sat in armchairs by the fire in the lounge and enjoyed a delectable shrimp risotto with lobster sauce and herb salad, made with ingredients from the Storchen’s Terreni alla Maggia farm in Ascona. When we decided against desert, Chef de Service Gian-Andrea Albonico and serveur Sejla Alihodzic looked crestfallen. Soon after, a generous slice of homemade chocolate and passionfruit cake were delivered to our table by a beaming Gian-Andrea and Sejla, compliments of the chef. “It’s our house specialty . . . and the chef could not bear to think you might leave without tasting it,” said Gian-Andrea. It was heavenly. Thanks chef. We were also impressed with the lightning-fast room service - Pamela appeared with an iron and ironing board, mending kit and ice within minutes of our requests. Another delight was the excellent service and magnificent selection at breakfast in the Rötisserie Restaurant. As a muesli, yoghurt, fresh fruit, cheese, croissant and bread lover, I was in heaven while Chris was rather partial to the custom-made omelettes and crispy bacon. <img width="500" height="750" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266053/10-i-rather-fancied-the-chilled-prosecco-with-breakfast-a-bubbly-way-to-start-the-day_500x750.jpg" alt="10 I Rather Fancied The Chilled Prosecco With Breakfast - A Bubbly Way To Start The Day. (3)"/> I rather fancied the chilled prosecco with breakfast - a bubbly way to start the day. There was a serious juicer machine that he put to good use, feeding it with whole fresh oranges while I rather fancied the chilled prosecco. A bubbly way to start the day. The Storchen – legend and history <img width="499" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266050/11storks-are-still-nesting-on-the-storchen-roof-centuries-after-the-hotel-was-named-in-their-honour-photo-courtesy-of-the-storchen-hotel_499x333.jpg" alt="11Storks Are Still 'nesting ' On The Storchen Roof , Centuries After The Hotel Was Named In Their Honour . Photo Courtesy Of The Storchen Hotel. (1)"/> Storks are still 'nesting' on the Storchen roof, centuries after the hotel was named in their honour. Photo courtesy of the Storchen Hotel. There’s inevitably a legend associated with the origins of such an illustrious historical establishment as the Storchen. The ‘Haus zum Storchen’ - first mentioned in 1357 in the tax records of the city of Zurich - is said to have received its name centuries ago from a pair of black storks that returned to the Limmat River every year to nest and breed. One day there was a storm so violent that it blew the nest from the hotel roof. When the local people found the nest, they saw all four eggs were miraculously unharmed and that among them there was one black egg. They placed the nest back on the hotel roof, and the pair of storks returned to hatch their young. Ever since then, the stork’s nest has served as a reminder that guests at the 'Haus zum Storchen' are particulary well looked after, while the rare black egg promises luck to all those who come in contact with it. Fortune certainly does seem to have smiled on the Storchen which has been at the heart of Zurich hospitality for over 660 years. The hotel has hosted royalty, Nobel Laureates, the philosopher-physician Theophrastus Bombastus Paracelsus von Hohenheim from Einsiedeln (1535), painter Juan Miro actor David Niven, Richard Wagner and countless others. <img width="497" height="310" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266049/12_497x310.jpg" alt="12 Upstairs , The Cigar Bar Has A Traditional Masculine Woody , Leather Look."/> Upstairs, the Cigar Bar has a traditional masculine woody, leather look. An impressive array of guild crests including the Zunft zur Schiffleuten are displayed in the cigar lounge windows. In medieval Zurich, guilds and society were the centre of social life. In 1498, the high-ranking burgesses of Schwyz visited Zurich during which time 200 guests were lavishly entertained by the city officials at the Storchen to celebrate the arrival of spring. These ancient guilds, established as far back as 1336, still have a strong presence in the city today with their spring festival, “Sechseläuten”, and other celebrations. For some time, the Storchen was the guild hall of the ‘Gesellschaft zur Constaffel’ (Society of the Constable) and then in 1894, the hotel became the seat of the ‘Zunft der Schiffleuten’ (Shippers Guild), the oldest surviving fishermen and shippers guild in Switzerland. An impressive array of guild crests including the Zunft zur Schiffleuten are displayed in the cigar lounge windows and a glass case on the first floor of the hotel. Other guilds represent tailors, linen and wool weavers, wine merchants, carpenters, butchers, goldsmiths and members of the nobility. Zurich – 2000 years of history at a glance Zürich's origins date back over 2000 years to 15BC when the Roman post of Turicum was founded there as a customs station to oversee goods travelling to and from Italy. The first mention of Zurich as a place name appeared in the 9th century and by the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city. In the 16th century, Zurich became the centre of the Swiss Protestant Reformation and by the 19th century, the city had grown into the commercial and financial centre of Switzerland. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266048/13-the-storchen-hotel-with-st-peterskirche-behind-the-rathaus-opposite-and-the-saturday-market-on-the-bridge_500x333.jpg" alt="13 The Storchen Hotel With St Peterskirche Behind , The Rathaus Opposite And The Saturday Market On The Bridge. (1)"/> The Storchen Hotel with St Peterskirche behind, the Rathaus opposite and the Saturday market on the Gmüesbrugg bridge. Strategically located at the narrowest point of the Limmat River, the Storchen’s fortunes prospered along with the city. It was the logical site for the construction of the first bridge over the river built in 1375. Commonly known as Gmüesbrugg, Swiss German for ‘vegetable bridge’, it was so named for the medieval market on the bridge. It’s known too as the Rathaus Brücke (Town Hall Bridge) because it leads to Zurich’s Town Hall or Rathaus. The Storchen was also at the crossroads of trade routes to Italy and Germany where ships set sail carrying merchandise to ports around the world. Early on, Zurich established itself as a centre for commerce and is now one of the world’s most important financial centres. It’s Switzerland’s largest city with over 400,000 inhabitants. Exploring Zurich on foot Much to our delight, we discovered most of Zürich's historic and cultural sights lie within easy walking distance of the Storchen. In a couple of hours, we were able to take in the picturesque cobbled alleyways behind the hotel, the streets and squares of the vehicle-free Rennwegg in the Old Town, the 1.4km Bahnhofstrasse shopping street with elegant shops such as Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Bulgari, and Chanel, and the world-famous financial centre on Paradeplatz, the home to Credit Suisse and UBS. <img width="500" height="655" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266047/14_500x655.jpg" alt="14"/> The landmark Grossmünster with its characteristic ‘salt and pepper’ towers. The hotel is literally encircled by the city's most beautiful churches - the landmark Grossmünster with its characteristic ‘salt and pepper’ towers, the centre of the Swiss Reformation in the 16th century; Fraumünster, famous for its magnificent 9.8m tall stained glass windows by Marc Chagall and Augusto Giacometti; and the oldest, St Peterskirche, dating back to the 9th century, which has the largest clock face in Europe, a staggering 8.7m in diameter. The minute hand is 4m long! At 7pm on Sunday, the church bells began chiming in a competition for the loudest, longest and most complicated sequence. At their peak, they reached an ear-splitting crescendo and then gradually fell silent, leaving my ears ringing in the aftermath. The Swiss National Museum, one of the most important art museums of cultural history in Europe, is a most impressive building. Next to the Zurich’s main railway station, the museum was built in 1898 in the style of a French Renaissance chateau with many towers, turrets, courtyards and a lovely park on the peninsula between the rivers Sihl and Limmat. The museum provides a fascinating overview of Swiss history, identity and the historical, social and cultural diversity of the country. The Lindenhof, the site of a 4th century Roman castle, is an excellent vantage point overlooking the Limmat River and the Old Town. The elevated square is a popular recreation and gathering spot and has a giant chess board, the scene of a tense contest while we were there. <img width="500" height="318" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266046/15_500x318.jpg" alt="15"/> The exquisite Schipfe or artisan’s street on the Limmat riverbank. Below the Lindenhof is the exquisite Schipfe or artisan’s street on the Limmat riverbank, one of the oldest quarters in Zurich. During the Middle Ages, boats docked there to unload silk, gold and food, and from the 16th century, it became the centre of the silk industry and boatbuilding. Zurich's Rathaus or Town Hall, built from 1694-1698, is an eye-catching building. It sits right in the Limmat and is joined to the pedestrian-only Rathaus Brücke (Town Hall Bridge) which leads back to the Storchen. Augustinergasse, an historic, narrow street with many colourful painted bay windows, is another lovely area close to the hotel. And across the river, the Old Town pedestrian quarters of Niederdorf and Oberdorf have enticing shops hidden in little alleyways. After dark, Niederdorf is a popular nightlife district with bars and street artists. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266045/16-zurich-by-night_500x333.jpg" alt="16 Zurich By Night. (1)"/> Zurich by night. We enjoyed strolling around the city at night, crisscrossing the Limmat on the river’s many bridges, mesmerised by the reflections of the bright lights in the calm river. One evening, we visited the grand Opera House, one of the best in the world, which was the glittering venue for an international film festival during our stay. <img width="500" height="535" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266044/17-justine-starring-at-the-zurich-film-festival_500x535.jpg" alt="17 Justine 'starring ' At The Zurich Film Festival. (1)"/> Justine 'starring' at the Zurich film festival. You are never far from the water in Zurich – the city is dissected by the Limmat and the Sihl Rivers which flow from Lake Zurich, joining at Platspitz. The lake is a popular place for excursions, especially aboard the two historic paddle-steamers. On a clear day, the snow-covered alps rising in the distance above the sparkling blue lake is a breath-taking sight. <img width="500" height="333" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7266043/18-on-a-clear-day-the-snow-covered-alps-rising-in-the-distance-above-the-sparkling-blue-lake-is-a-breath-taking-sight_500x333.jpg" alt="18 On A Clear Day , The Snow -covered Alps Rising In The Distance Above The Sparkling Blue Lake Is A Breath -taking Sight. (1)"/> On a clear day, the snow-covered alps rising in the distance above the sparkling blue lake is a breath-taking sight. And you don't need to buy bottled water in Zurich. It has the most fountains of any city in the world with around 1200 drinking water fountains, many of them works of art. The only hotel in Zurich on the banks of the River Limmat, you can catch a riverboat from the Storchen’s jetty a few steps from the front entrance and take a cruise along the river to beautiful Lake Zurich. It’s a stylish, romantic way to see the sights of the Old Town. And if your luggage can’t handle cobblestones, you can ride the riverboat from the hotel to the railway station . . . or take a tram from Limmatquai just across the bridge. The verdict We loved our visit to Zurich and our stay at the Storchen. The hospitality, service, cuisine, comfort and ambiance are incomparable. After all, they have had six centuries’ of experience. And the location is perfect. The Storchen, as always, is at the heart of Zurich, a short walk to everywhere. The Storchen Zurich has achieved a masterstroke, successfully preserving the unique, historic elements and soul of the much-loved old hotel while polishing, modernising and rejuvenating her visage. ‘Savoir faire with tradition . . . adapted to the modern age,’ as Jörg Arnold said. Image credits: Justine Tyerman * The Storchen Zürich, a member of Historic Hotels Worldwide since 2011, dates back to 1357. The Storchen is part of The Living Circle which consists of a series of hotels, farms, orchards and vineyards in Switzerland - the Storchen in Zürich, the Schlattgut and Buech in Herrliberg, and the Castello del Sole, Terreni alla Maggia and Rustico del Sole in Ascona. Justine and Chris Tyerman stayed at The Storchen Zurich <a href="https://storchen.ch/en/" target="_blank">https://storchen.ch/en/</a> Switzerland Tourism: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com</a> Swiss Travel Pass: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/rail" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com/rail</a> Swiss International Air Lines: <a href="http://www.swiss.com/ch/en" target="_blank">www.swiss.com/ch/en</a> Republished with the permission of <a href="http://travelmemo.com/" target="_blank">Travelmemo.com</a>.

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Shift work with Justine Tyerman

The golf widow

Freewheeling with Justine Tyerman

Side-tracked with Justine Tyerman

In the company of giants

Turning greener with the years

The trip of a lifetime: Saying farewell to The Ghan

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On the UNESCO World Heritage Bernina Express from Switzerland to Italy

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What to see and do in Zürich

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Shift work with Justine Tyerman

The golf widow

Freewheeling with Justine Tyerman

Side-tracked with Justine Tyerman

In the company of giants

Turning greener with the years

The trip of a lifetime: Saying farewell to The Ghan

The Ghan: A day of surprises in Australia’s outback

Travelling on The Ghan: Confronting my fear of snakes in Australia’s Red Centre

Under the spell of The Ghan

A day on the TranzAlpine

At the source of history: Dart River, Aspiring National Park

Exploring the land of the green fairy in Switzerland

Men in high heels: Tramping The Remarkables

Basel: Switzerland's art and culture capital

Lippy dilemma: matte vs gloss?

On the UNESCO World Heritage Bernina Express from Switzerland to Italy

Experiencing mountain magic in Switzerland’s Tschiertschen

Rob Roy Glacier: Exploring a truly enchanted land

What to see and do in Zürich

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