Hidden gems uncovered at Palliser Bay
I was in luck. The forecast was magnificent for our road trip around rugged Palliser Bay, a unique slice of New Zealand coastline located at the southern end of the North Island in the Wairarapa – a region only one hour’s drive or train ride from Wellington.
Stretching from Turakirae Head, 20 km southeast of Wellington around to Cape Palliser, which has an 18-metre lighthouse perched on a hill 80 metres above sea level, Palliser Bay offers visitors an eclectic mix of spectacular geology, sparse scenery, wildlife and coastal villages full of character.
To access Palliser Bay, we drive south of the wine village of Martinborough, which is a popular destination for those who enjoy boutique wineries, great cafes and colonial architecture. Driving south on Lake Ferry Road, we pass the rural community of Pirinoa and turn left onto Cape Palliser Road which is a mix of sealed and unsealed road and features a number of one-way bridges. Behind us is the expansive Aorangi Forest Park, with its numerous hunting and tramping opportunities.
After driving through rolling countryside, the Bay opens up before us. Clear skies mean we can see across to the snowcapped peaks of the South Island, while signs of coastal erosion are everywhere including remnants of a bach (NZ term for holiday house) that has fallen into the ocean.
We come to the Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve, home of some of the most amazing rock formations you will ever see – tall and craggy pillars jutting out of the land created by erosive forces of rain and floods. The reserve has a camping ground and a choice of walking tracks leading to the Pinnacles (allow between two to four hours depending which route you take) which featured in Sir Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King movie. It’s an eerie place and very dramatic, so don’t forget your camera!
We continue along the coast passing a dinky nine-hole golf course with square greens mown into the beach side grass and arrive at the cray-fishing village of Ngawi, where tractors and fishing boats line up side by side on the beach like pickets of a fence. This is because Ngawi has no harbour, so fishing boats are launched by tractors from the beach. If you get your timing right it makes for fascinating viewing and provides an insight into the lives of those making a living off the land and the sea.
We make our way to Cape Palliser passing under a dramatic triangular rock face that dips seaward at 45 degrees. This natural landmark is called Ngā-Rā-o-Kupe (Kupe's Sail) and relates to a story whereby the early Polynesian explorer Kupe camped here and made a sail that was hung up on the cliff.
Just passed here, we spot seals glistening on the rocks in the sunshine. We stop at a large rocky outcrop which on closer inspection reveals a series of inter-connecting nursery pools full of baby seals. Admittedly, the odour is not pleasant but watching these young pups twist and turn through the pools whilst eyeing us up and down with those curious large black eyes and pointy noses is mesmerising. Just a short distance out at sea are larger seals, presumably their mothers, surfing the waves and rolling around. It’s incredible to be so close to the largest fur seal breeding colony in the North Island and see charismatic creatures in their own environment.
After enjoying a picnic on the stony beach, we come to the eye-catching Cape Palliser Lighthouse with its wide red and white stripes. I am reminded that travel guide Lonely Planet named this as one of the world's must-see lighthouses and I can understand why. It stands proudly on the hill overlooking the bay as it has done since it was first lit in 1897 and can be reached on foot via 258 steep steps. It’s a good workout but the reward is stunning elevated views along the coastline we’ve just driven. This day is magic with blues skies, azure waters and a slight breeze. I can only imagine how wildly beautiful it would look in a storm.
We make the return journey to Martinborough, via the Lake Ferry Pub which has a garden bar and large windows looking out over Lake Onoke and across to Ocean Beach. Luxury lodge Wharekauhau, where Prince William and Princess Katherine stayed during their 2014 Royal Visit to New Zealand, is nestled in the hills over the other side and a local tells me this is the best place to watch the sunset. I believe her.
For those who don’t enjoy driving, several companies offer full day tours along this unique stretch of coastline. One is the wonderfully quirky To the Coast with the Post, where passengers join rural postman Gordon Wyeth for the day as he delivers the mail and supplies to those living along the coastal road. Passengers get to see the fur seal colony, visit the villages of Pirinoa, Lake Ferry and Ngawi as well as climb the steps to the Cape Palliser lighthouse. But what makes this experience really worthwhile is Gordon’s knowledge of the area and his fantastic story telling abilities. It’s a great chance to hear some amazing stories and share a few laughs along the way.
Getting to the Wairarapa:
The Wairarapa is located at the lower right-hand corner of New Zealandʼs North Island. It is only an hour’s drive or train ride north-east of Wellington, which has daily domestic and international flights; and just over an hour’s drive from Palmerston North’s domestic airport. Driving to the Wairarapa is easy, with The Classic New Zealand Wine Trail (SH2) weaving through pretty rural landscapes including vineyards, olive groves and beef, sheep and dairy farms. The region’s five townships are serviced by train, bus or shuttles. There is a wide variety of accommodation from luxury lodges and 5 Star hotels to motels and charming cottages many of which have been sensitively restored.
For more information on Palliser Bay or on any of the companies that offer one-day tours along the coast please visit, www.wairarapanz.com.
Related links:
10 breathtaking photos of New Zealand’s beautiful roads
10 lesser-known New Zealand holiday spots