Alex O'Brien
Beauty & Style

5 rules for younger skin

Even if you've passed 60, you can still turn back the clock on your skin and actually undo signs of damage.

"It's like getting your body into shape: Just because you haven't exercised before doesn't mean you can't start now and see great results," says Dr Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at New York City's Mount Sinai Hospital.

Here, top dermatologists share the secrets that can reverse the damage and make all the difference between looking your age and, well, looking ageless.

1. Wash with a cleanser that turns skin into a sponge for anti-aging products.

If you buy whatever cheap cleanser is on sale or promises the biggest benefits on its label, you've likely been hurting your skin. First, dermatologists say, you should choose a cleanser designed specifically for your skin type (this rule of thumb applies to almost all facial-care products). So if your skin tends to get dry, opt for a hydrating wash. Have normal or combo skin? Look for a foaming cleanser, which can help rid skin of excess surface oil.

No matter your skin type, as long as it's not supersensitive, choose a cleanser that contains alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs. These can stimulate cell turnover, helping prime your skin to better absorb the products you apply afterward, says Ronald Moy, MD, a Beverly Hills-based dermatologist. And if you use a cleanser with AHAs, you don't need to invest time or money in a separate scrub or exfoliating product - in fact, using them together can irritate skin.

2. Use a serum

If you don't use a serum now, you should. Most of them contain effective anti-aging ingredients not typically found in cleansers, moisturisers, or facial oils. But just as you do with lingerie, you'll want to wear something different during the day than what you sleep in at night. In the morning, apply a serum that contains antioxidants like resveratrol and vitamins C and E. These powerful agents act like fire extinguishers on skin, says Zeichner, dousing inflammation caused by free radicals.

At night, skip antioxidant-only blends and opt for a serum with retinol, a potent derivative of vitamin A. It helps repair skin by speeding cell turnover, preventing the breakdown of collagen, and stimulating new growth of the skin-firming protein. Retinol is one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients available, but it can become less effective when exposed to sunlight, so be sure to apply it at night only. If you've never used a retinol product before, apply the serum every other night for the first month to reduce the possibility of skin irritation. If your skin is supersensitive, bypass retinol altogether and choose a serum made with retinyl palmitate, a milder yet still effective form of vitamin A.

3. The foundation of younger skin is a multi-tasking moisturiser.

Wearing sunscreen on a daily basis is the most important thing you can do now for younger-looking skin. While SPF won't undo the sun damage your skin has already incurred, it's the best way to prevent more signs of photoaging, like fine lines, age spots, and discoloration.

There's certainly no rule that says you have to use a daytime moisturiser with SPF, but doing so means you'll speed up your morning routine - and be less likely to skip applying sunscreen. Look for moisturisers that offer broad-spectrum protection, meaning they filter both UVA and UVB rays, with an SPF of at least 30, says Zeichner. For optimal benefits, choose an SPF moisturiser that also includes DNA repair enzymes like photolyase and endonuclease - these ingredients help block UV light on a molecular level, reducing the risk of photoaging even more.

You won't want to apply a product with SPF at night, so invest in a separate moisturiser or night cream to use before going to bed. If your skin is dry, choose a hydrating cream with peptides that can help stimulate collagen growth, which, in turn, will work to make your skin look smoother and fresher. If you prefer the feel of a facial oil, opt for one with argan or marula oil - both can improve the elasticity of older skin, says New York City dermatologist David Colbert, MD.

No matter which moisturiser you choose, don't apply it to the delicate skin under your eyes. To treat this sensitive area, use an eye cream containing DNA repair enzymes, which also helps smooth wrinkles.

4. What you put in your mouth is as important as what you put on your skin

You already know diet can do powerful things - like totally transform how your body looks in a matter of months. So why wouldn't what you eat have the same effect on your skin? A healthy diet rich in hydrating whole foods and low in processed, packaged junk with sugar and chemical additives (both of which can trigger skin inflammation) is as important to a youthful glow as any product. In particular, Colbert recommends choosing foods high in probiotics, shown to help counter inflammation and bad gut bacteria that can wreak havoc on skin from the inside out. Here, Colbert shares the easy four-food dietary Rx that he prescribes to clients who want to eat for younger-looking skin.

5. Call in an expert to do the hard work.

The best foods and products will help get you glowing, but sometimes you need an expert to repair more complex problems. A good dermatologist can recommend the right products for your skin.

What products do you use on your skin? Let us know in the comments below.

First appeared on Stuff.co.nz.

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Tags:
beauty, ageing, skin, care, young